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SIKKENS PROBLEMS

James_Borgetto's picture

SIKKENS PROBLEMS (post #168104)

James_Borgetto on Fri, 06/25/1999 - 18:36
in

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Hi!

I used the Sikkens Cetol 1 & 23+ exterior wood finish on tight knot cedar, ship lap siding in Eugene OR. I experienced cracking and peeling on the southern and western exposures after 2 years. Manufacturer was not at all helpful. Has anyone else experienced this type of problem? So far, the only way out of this that I have come up with is to sand and refinish. Any ideas or suggestions? Your input will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to hear from those who have dealt with Sikkens in the past; good and bad experience.

Thanks again.

-A +A

(post #168104, reply #2 of 7)

by Graydon_Green in reply to James_Borgetto [original] on Tue, 06/22/1999 - 18:22

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I live in southern British Columbia . My company builds custom homes and recently has been doing a great deal of work on recreation properties at the ski resorts in the area. No one that I have talked with has the answer for a long lasting clear wood finish for wood siding and log work . Sikkens ,CWF,and other products like these all seem to have there problems lasting more than two years . If anyone knows of a product that will last more than two years on wood siding and log work I would love to here about it . I would also like to know if Fine Home
Building has ever done a long term field test on several differnt types of clear wood finish .

(post #168104, reply #5 of 7)

by James_Borgetto in reply to James_Borgetto [original] on Fri, 06/25/1999 - 18:36

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Hi!

I used the Sikkens Cetol 1 & 23+ exterior wood finish on tight knot cedar, ship lap siding in Eugene OR. I experienced cracking and peeling on the southern and western exposures after 2 years. Manufacturer was not at all helpful. Has anyone else experienced this type of problem? So far, the only way out of this that I have come up with is to sand and refinish. Any ideas or suggestions? Your input will be greatly appreciated. I would also like to hear from those who have dealt with Sikkens in the past; good and bad experience.

Thanks again.

(post #168104, reply #1 of 7)

by Guest_ in reply to James_Borgetto [original] on Thu, 06/17/1999 - 00:32

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James I use Sikkens alot and have few if any problems. I'm willing to bet that the siding you installed wasn't back primed. Drop as a note telling me if you did back prime the siding.

(post #168104, reply #3 of 7)

by Guest_ in reply to James_Borgetto [original] on Tue, 06/22/1999 - 20:06

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I am amused at the long term deck treatment test being done by Consumer Reports and featured in their June 1999 issue. They have dropped all but three products from the test because they've failed to perform after "only" 32 months. This is like road testing twelve year old cars and deriving quality conclusions from that. Two of the surviving finishes were opaque (not surprising), and the other was $50 a gallon Sikkens (also not surprising). What bothers me from this is that a friend of mine is about to make a buying decision from that test. I've invited him to come look at my cedar fence which I've treated with Olympic Natural Look Protector Plus, one of the test failures. I applied it initially in 1996 and again last year, and it looks great.

I would attribute James's problem to something other than the finish he used, but I also believe that twenty-four months is good for any moderately priced exterior fence or deck treatment and that expecting more isn't reasonable. Fine Homebuilding actually has set up such a test, as Graydon suggests, though they probably don't know it. A couple of years ago, they featured a furniture-grade redwood deck finished with Penofin (#106?). All they need do is go back now and look at it.

(post #168104, reply #4 of 7)

by Guest_ in reply to Anonymous [original] on Fri, 06/25/1999 - 03:13

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I'm with Barry on this one. Fine Homebuilding should go back and report on that deck. It sure looked beautiful at the time. Reading that article was my first introduction to Penofin. Never heard of it before. Sikkens is used a lot in our area by "serious" deckers; everyone else uses either Olympic or Thompson's Water Seal. What interests me is that it seems Penofin "evened out" the color variations in the Wolmanized material. I liked the look, but as Barry indicated, how is it holding up? How about it Fine Homebuilding? Can you give us a progress report?

Davo

(post #168104, reply #6 of 7)

by Guest_ in reply to Anonymous [original] on Fri, 06/25/1999 - 18:36

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Had 3 people call me for estimates to strip and refinish 3 decks covered with "Sikkens", seemed they were all going to sue the company...Sort of makes you go Hmmmmm.

Tried a new product last year...gotta go back to check on the results. Applied to soaking wet white cedar poles.

They have a website;

http://www.weatherbos.com

sikkens, dect stains (post #168104, reply #7 of 7)

by berourke in reply to James_Borgetto [original] on Wed, 03/07/2012 - 10:55
I am a paint dealer in the virgin islands. We don't have freezing weather, but we sure get rain and LOTS of sun. I have some beautiful mahogany doors in my home, but are they a pain to refinish. I have tried alomost everything on the market. The helmsman spar lasted five months. The Sikkens Cetol Marine natural teak has been on for nine months and still looks perfect. Many of my customers (some are professional finishers)swear by the Cetol marine products and won't use anything else. But, you have to recoat every 1-2 years. If you blow it off, you will have to strip it! The Sikkens 1 and 23+ are lower end versions of the marine, they don't handle wear as well, but seem to hold up.1 and 23+ also have a maintenance coat available that is less expensive and fairly easy to apply. Again, if you blow off the recoat you are screwed - strip and start over! The same company also makes Awlbrite - which is the ultimate clear finish. A 3 part urethane it is not for the DIY market, but the boat guys tell me it lasts several years without maintenance. As far as decks go - any film forming product - sikkens, flood, etc. is going to wear - kids, dogs, boots, mud - it just can't last - and the film will keep the recoat from penetrating and drying properly. You don't have to completely strip it, but you will need to pressure wash/scrub it and prbably use a "deck cleaner" before re coating every couple years. For my money, an old fashioned, non-filming deck stain is the easiest. Slop it on whenever the color fades. Unfortunately, it won't give you the pretty sheen we've all gotten used to.