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Attaching molding to brick?

rover1's picture

What is the best way for installing moldings to brick without damaging the brick? 

(post #98705, reply #1 of 15)

Greetings rover1,

This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.

Perhaps it will catch someones attention that can help you with advice.





A person with no sense of humor about themselves is fullashid



(post #98705, reply #12 of 15)

You first attach backer, it's less work in the long run (no pun intended).
By placing the backer you will deal less with the brick, which is a good thing. The fasteners can be farther apart & you won't need to deal with them effecting the finish.
In my humble opinion I wouldn't use a low or high velocity gun on brick, but check the mortar if it isn't too soft you can place anchors there, you're preference of course. I like the bent shaft type of fastener, then you just drill & sink the fastener and not deal with anchors. Even into the brick if it's like, what is is clay? some of those old ones are pretty brittle and some soft... you'll have to check that out on the site.
Basically the backer is the trick, get that up then finish nail the crown. You can check out how to make the backer and see a few pics of those type of crown installs on the old archive crown install tutorial:

I don't have those images over to the new crown site as yet.

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Installing crown molding on brick or concrete (post #98705, reply #14 of 15)


Installing crown molding on brick or concrete can be a chore. It is difficult to anchor. The best  way that I have found is with light weight foam crown molding. I found a company that sells a flat back smooth white foam crown molding. It installs with painters caulk. Thats it , no fasteners! I put one coat of water based paint on it and it looks better than wood moldings.

I used my for LED indirect lighing and it looks super!  There website is

I hope this helps.



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I would have guessed you use (post #98705, reply #15 of 15)

I would have guessed you use Spam spread to install it.

Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

(post #98705, reply #2 of 15)

What kind/size of moldings are you installing?

What type of brick?

How many feet?

(post #98705, reply #3 of 15)

Hi. I'm installing pine moldings 2 1/2 inches wide x 3/4 inches thick that will be primed and painted. The brick is rough texture exterior brick. Installing roughly 100 feet the first time around and another 80-100 feet the second time around.

(post #98705, reply #4 of 15)

Use 11/2 or 2"  cut nails or masonry nails. Sounds like a lot of trim; might want to speed it up with a Hilti gunpowder actuated driver.


Expert since 10 am.

(post #98705, reply #5 of 15)

Hey Jackplane, do you have a link to that Hilti gunpower driver?

(post #98705, reply #6 of 15)

I used plastic anchors and small trim screws, though that was plaster over brick. Picture rail. I'm sure it was far more of a pain than if you can get a powder actuated nailer to work.

Not that you asked my opinion, but personally I almost never like molding on brick. The edge between the brick and the molding never looks right.

(post #98705, reply #7 of 15)

What kind of molding? Freize?

Reason I ask is that it is almost never necessary to attach directly to the brick. molding finds it's purposwe in transitioning between one thing and another. If brick is the one thing, then wood might be the other and if so, it will be easier to attach to it than to the brick.

So - how about the whole picture for the best solution to answer your question.



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Oh Well,

We did the best we could...

(post #98705, reply #8 of 15)

I am installing the molding to cover up about a 1/4 inch gap between the brick on the home and concrete porch and walkway.

(post #98705, reply #9 of 15)

Then let's wait up a minute here. It sounds like a sort of baseboard then, right?

Any way to get a digital picture up here?

This could be a place where you could do more harm than good if weeps get blocked up, and if you have settling problems with the crete, there might be better solutions.



Welcome to the
Taunton University of
Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
 where ...
Excellence is its own reward!



Oh Well,

We did the best we could...

(post #98705, reply #10 of 15)

Hey Piffin, I don't have a way to get any digital pictures posted, but it is sort of going to be a small baseboard. Any other solutions would be greatly appreciated?

(post #98705, reply #11 of 15)

Is this cosmetic?

Has the crete settled? is it still settling? If still settling, you will still have a problem that is being covered up.

are there weep holes in the mortar at bottom course? whatever you do, don't block them. Water that blows into the masonry veneer needs to drain back out.

I would be more prone to closing a cosmetic gap by pointing up there, while keeping some weep holes open. The molding will draw attention to the problem ion a way that will be a maintanence headache.



Welcome to the
Taunton University of
Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
 where ...
Excellence is its own reward!



Oh Well,

We did the best we could...

(post #98705, reply #13 of 15)

what I have done is set the molding in place, and either drive an 8d or 6d cut nail, into the molding, and throughnto the brick. I have found that it is better , when driving cut nails, to predrill with a hammer dreill, using a 1/8' OR 5/32' or 3/16' hammer drill bit, the cut nail goes in alot better that waqy, and if your bit is snmall enough, it will still hold on to the brick pretty good. Other than thagt, you might want to attach a trim grade backing board to the brick, and then nail the molding on to that, conventionally, just dont use too long of aa nail