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Best primer for new garage plywod

edwardh1's picture

Best primer for new garage plywod (post #206888)

Is there an online source for info on plywood priming?

I just put new exterior plywood on a wall on the INSIDE of my garage.

What do I prime it with? Plan to top coat with latex.

Gargae is attached to the house

Zinsser says all their water based stuff will raise the grain and require sanding. people tell me oil base will smell a lot (but for how long?)

Kilz by e mail says use their General purpose water base pt which no body here stocks, not lowes HD or wal mart. They say their Kilz2 2 is "not the same primer" and many people seem to complains about Kilz2 . Kilz makes a zillion different primers- stupid!!!

Kilz by phone says use Kilz2.


Should I just use oil base then wait for the smell to go away?

For exterior wood I would use (post #206888, reply #1 of 4)

For exterior wood I would use nothing other than an alkyd primer.

Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

Primer (post #206888, reply #2 of 4)

Latex primers will, in most cases, raise the grain of plywood to some extent.  The grade/quality of the plywood is the key. 

If you have access to Rodda paint products, try First Coat latex primer.  Easy to work with and excellent results.

Gary- Research and Development


It's a GARAGE! You ought not (post #206888, reply #3 of 4)

It's a GARAGE! You ought not have any trouble getting good ventilation - just open that big door.

How about .... forget the Kilz and the home centers, and visit a real paint store? I bet they have an appropriate primer.

I'd be biased in favor of a shellac-base primer for this use. It's absolutely moisture proof, and will dry fast. Yes, you need lots of ventilation. A second choice would be a spar varnish urethane (with satin gloss) as a primer.

I'd  topcoat with a glossy paint, probably oil based. That's so I can clean it easily. Add Japan drier to cut the cure time down to something reasonable - OR add penetrol for a better finish. DON'T use both, as they cancel each other out. Close the place up tight for the six hours or so it will take for the paint to become 'tack free,' then ventilate generously overnight for a proper cure.

I would not use shellac based (post #206888, reply #4 of 4)

I would not use shellac based primer inside a garage, it's not moisture proof, and is only recommended for interior use, or as a spot primer outdoors.  I would use a stain blocking acrylic primer myself.

Also, I don't add anything to paint unless it's a thinner / reducer.  Japan drier can tint the paint slightly because it isn't clear, usually brown.