HI,
We’ve just had 1,000 LF of fences put in in Charlottesville, VA, and I was wondering what people thought would be the best way to treat the cut tops of the posts from rotting prematurely. They are half round, pressure treated Southern Pine with Oak boards nailed to them. I am not there presently, so cannot give accurate commentary on things, but I assume the posts are all wet, and when they dry, will split. I’ve had experience here in California with a wet 6″ diameter Douglas Fir PT post that rotted out at soil level in only a few years. I’m guessing it dried out, split and let fungus etc in and rotted it out. I would like to prevent this from happening to over 100 brand new posts!!!
The posts and fences will be painted black, in a few months, after all the wood dries out. Would painting the angled-cut tops with copper naphthenate work? How about penetrating 2 part epoxy? Should I rely on just the balck “paint”?
Also, would prophylactically treating the post bases at soil level help at all? I could easily walk the fence line and spray CU Naph or something else on all the post bases, after they’ve dried out.
Any comments, recommendations or EXPERIENCE would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
William
Skyhammer Construction
Replies
MOst folks cut and nail posts caps from sections of fence board to the angled tops of the posts. This will go a long way towards shedding water from the end grain of the posts. The caps will rot first, but it's cheaper to replace these section of post caps periodically rather than posts. Also, you may want to dip the groound contact ends of your fence posts in asphalt based sealer before setting them. You can't buy creosote any longer, but I've seen some substitutes on the market.
Post Caps - what you do with empty coffee cans. But since no one drinks canned coffee anymore you'll have to scrounge veggie cans from a caterer.
treating fence post tops
The "best way" would be to cut squares of copper and fold them over the top, but the "best way" wouldn't be cheap or too practical. Besides, the oak will rot way before the PT pine. How much CCA is in the posts? The more the better. I hope it was "ground contact", but if you get "fresh water" then the posts last longer.
My experience is that the top of the post is not the weak link. Rather it is at the point of soil contact. You could use coil stock aluminum or asphalt paint from Tractor Supply Company.
I treated the ends of porch railings with melted parafin and it seems to be preventing splitting from water absorbtion and subsequent drying and checking.
Ugly method...nail piece of asphalt shingle to each one.
Just some suggestions
Hub caps from 1950s-era automobiles.
Recent experine on 30yo fences says the posts won't rot at the bottoms before the tops dry out to the point of not holding nails. Horses like to chew on them too making it even hard to get nails to hold if this is for horses.
Square posts last longer than the rounds so goo dluck.
Painting it now means you'll forever have to paint it.
Most fencers I see are shooting only 3" nails which is a real disservice to their customers.
If they used white oak you should be good for a long time. You'll know by the end of the year by the rot on anything not WO.
Paint is probably the best bet but it's something that needs to be maintained before it looks bad. Schedule to sand all the tops every 3 or 4 years and reprime and paint again. Sand because if there's any water intrusion you'll see and be able to let it dry before painting.
Copper or lead sheet is bullet proof but copper is liable to be stolen and lead comes with it's own issues.