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Board & Batten thoughts.

eh_gee's picture

Board & Batten thoughts.  (post #215370)

Greetings all, looking for some advice and opinions.

Siding a new construction "barn" with Breckinridge rough sawn plywood and FJ cedar battens.  My first Board and batten project. This will all be painted and my concern is using the rough sawn side of the FJ cedar to match the rough sawn siding.  I'm pretty particular about aesthetics and concerned that the fact the rough sawn grain changes every several feet to inches (finger jointed) will lead to a very visible patchwork appearance to all the battens.  I have to weigh that against the fact that the smooth side might just look funny against the rough plywood.  

Does anyone have any idea what I am talking about?  I barely do.  And, while we're at it, how about the belt/belly band to cover the horizontal joint.  Thinking of going 5/4 on that so the 1x3 battens butt nice into them.  But, what width for that?

Any thoughts are appreciated.


Hi there, I agree that finger (post #215370, reply #1 of 6)

Hi there, I agree that finger jointed material can look pretty bad, especially where grain matters as is the case with anything rough sawn.  I don't use any finger jointed material for reasons other than aesthetics, but looks alone in your situation would have me looking elsewhere.  Where I live in New England, good rough sawn, local, eastern white pine 1x is what I would be using for the battens.  I like them to go top to bottom in one length if possible before the horizontal joint is trimmed.  Before any bats go on though, you definitely want to install metal "Z" flashing where the sheets meet and space the upper sheet up off the flashing. The horizontal bats should be steeply beveled on top, fit between the vertical bats and be rabetted to allow space for the flashing.  Attached is a quick sketch of what I think is a good detail.  More traditional may be to nail the horizontal bats on all the way around the building, then butt the vertical bats to it.  This is fine for a simple shed or barn but certainly not a good water detail.  

B_and_B.png44.55 KB

Thanks for the detailed (post #215370, reply #3 of 6)

Thanks for the detailed response, finefinish.  I hear you on the material side of things but this is the material I am stuck with for this project (longer story).  The flashing is in place as noted and your thoughts on horizontals is a very different approach than I had considered.  As a water detail it makes tons of sense.  I appreciate the time and effort you put into the response as it is great info for me to consider as I move forward.

Better late than never (post #215370, reply #6 of 6)

Sorry...late coming into this discussion. Forget FJ material!!  It will delaminate in no time! I've seen this happen over and over again with FJ trim such as brick molding. As others have suggesed, go with solid material. Pine and cedar are fine, but I would also have you consider LP composite trim. If you can't get the width you need, rip wider boards. Be sure to prime the ripped sides and the back of each baton (if ripping wide LP trim boards, prime the back prior to rippiing and save time). 

Mel Fros

Try it. (post #215370, reply #2 of 6)

You don't have a lot to lose by trying one or two each way and seeing how it looks.

Thanks, Mike.  This was (post #215370, reply #4 of 6)

Thanks, Mike.  This was kinda what I was thinking it may come down to but it seemed so rudimentary.  You have helped me to settle on the fact that it is probably my very best option being stuck with this material.  

any pics of your (post #215370, reply #5 of 6)

any pics of your project?


I am thinking of using breckenridge and 1 x 3 cedar battens?