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Building own home, need framing/network advice

rosshurlow1's picture

Building own home, need framing/network advice (post #214288)

So I just completed the outside of this house, and Im working on the inside now. I'll try to load a pic of the cieling and floor plan. This house is a package from my local menards.

1.The cieling in the living room has lvls to hold up the roof. The basic floor plan they show when looking at the package shows dotted lines for beams above in that room. My thoughts were to leave the lvls exposed and maybe paint or cover them with something. However, my dad who has been greatly helping me says they need to be boxed in like shown. What would you do for that?

 

2. Im pretty lost in terms of running the network, and tv cables. I have Cat 5e, but should I just get Cat 6? is there a basic layout they should go in terms of rooms, and where the home runs need to terminate? The Room sizes arent that big, so I assumed If i did put a tv in a bedroom they would be high on the closet wall. Anything needed besides a receptacle and tv cable there?


Any advice is appreciated, thanks

Are those? (post #214288, reply #1 of 28)

Are those Glulams or LVL?  Probably does not matter.

Kind of an odd roof structure, parallel beams and not a single ridge beam, but ok.

As for "having to be boxed in" or tied together with a flat ceiling, I see no reason for that.  Ridge beams or in your case parallel .. purlins, carry vertical loads.  As such they prevent the rafters from spreading at the walls.  If you did not have a ridge beam and only a ridge board then you would need to tie the rafters together forming a flat ceiling somewhere pretty low tothe top of the walls forming a pusedo truss.  Your beams carry the load straight down.  Good to go..

If I were to tie the beams together I certainly would extend that flat ceiling to either side of the beams.  Seems very very odd to have the roof slope up to the top of the beam and then tie the bottoms of the beams together.  Very odd.

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curious (post #214288, reply #2 of 28)

How do you plan to insulate the roof?

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There's nothing wrong with (post #214288, reply #3 of 28)

There's nothing wrong with leaving the LVLs exposed (and they're not that unattractive with just a touch of stain and varnish, if you can hide all the stamps).  The only issue is that you should not have opposite sides of the LVL exposed to different climates -- if one side is exposed to "conditioned air" then the other side should be as well.

As to network cables, don't overthink it.  Cat 5e is good to 10Gbits, which is more than enough for a home.  You'd only need Cat 6 in a factory or apartment building or some such, and then only for the main trunks.

Bring the home runs "home", to some location where you can install a "switch" or router (ie, accessible, dry, with power, and not too hot), and which has some room to add or change the equipment as technology "advances".


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

Like Dan says, homerun (post #214288, reply #4 of 28)

Like Dan says, homerun everything to a central place, hopefully where the utilities and TV cable enters. I would say phone but that is almost an obsolete technology unless you are getting fiber.

I actually have a small closet for all of this stuff (Service panel, TV, and network interface). It also makes your lightning protection easier if it is all right there with your service grounding electrode conductor.

If you have an extensive network planned a patch panel to land all of your CAT 5 on is a good idea and be sure all the runs are identified so it is easy to figure out what is hooked to what. If you do a little planning this can be a nice amenity. Don't forget a light  ;-)

There are some rules about working space in front of the panel but if you put in a 32" door that opens up to reveal the whole panel face, the closet can be quite shallow. Mine is about a foot deep.

Greg

I currently live a primitive life ... (post #214288, reply #6 of 28)

where did my text go???

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One shouldn't get too hung up (post #214288, reply #7 of 28)

One shouldn't get too hung up on having the TV/Internet panels near the main electrical panel -- usually the space there is limited, and you can be much more flexible with the placement of the network stuff.  But consider installing some flex conduit (2-3 runs) running from your chosen networking center out to the likely entrance point for the services.  This makes it much easier to update to, eg, optical fiber when that becomes available.

And consider installing two separate phone lines to a few key locations, and especially a spare line from the service entrance to your network center.  I had an old business line in the house, and when it came time to install DSL internet (since the cable internet service was really sucky), I was able to reuse that old line for the DSL connection, so we did not have to install filters on all the regular phones.


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

You just pointed out one (post #214288, reply #8 of 28)

You just pointed out one advanftage of having your network near the Telco Dmark. You can run a short DSL cable, separate from the voice and let the Telco filter it in the Dmark. These days the Dmark is set up for that.

Greg

First ... TEst (post #214288, reply #20 of 28)

test

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I will try again (post #214288, reply #21 of 28)

I had been tryin gto ask a detailed question and askin gyu for advice.  Since I have been unable to post anything of substance I did some research, but still ahve some questions.   See next post

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ok so far so good. (post #214288, reply #22 of 28)

It looks like what one should do is run a line from teh Network Interface Box on the outside of the house to a Telecomunications Distribution Box somewhere  in the house.  Then run teh line to a SPLITTER to split out the phne from DSL.  Can anyone point me in the right direct to find such a splitter.  I have seen items which look like a small plastic block with a pigtail, but don't they have a more substancial unit which can actually attach to teh back side of the DIstribution Panel?

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Check out the Phone Man's (post #214288, reply #24 of 28)

Check out the Phone Man's site.   http://www.homephonewiring.com/index.html

Free advise and instructions, and he sells some things are are harder to find.    He  has a DSL splitter of the type you are asking about.

I found the site helpfull when I needed to fix the rats nest of wiring in my own house.  Otherwise I have no connection.

You don't need to purchase (post #214288, reply #25 of 28)

You don't need to purchase your own DSL splitter, you just need a location where the "splitter" (terminal block plus filter box) can eventually be installed, ahead of any branching off of the phone lines to individual phone locations.


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

What do you mean ... (post #214288, reply #26 of 28)

waht do you mean I don't neeed to buy a spliter.  Are you sayig the DSL company will provide one for me????????

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Yes, they will give you (post #214288, reply #27 of 28)

Yes, they will give you filters for your phones or they will put a filter in the demark and you can run a separate wire to the DSL modem from the line side of the filter.

Greg

Then from the splitter (post #214288, reply #23 of 28)

Then run form teh splitter: one line to your DSL jack and one line to a Telecommunication module from whihc multiple phone jacks can be run.

Good???

Secondly, it sounds like i would want to run a CAT5 line to teh panel and into some Input/Output unit from which multiple CATs can be end runned to Cable jacks.

Am I on the right track here?

 

Thanks. 

 

Sorry for all the separate posts but this website smells

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What is wrong with this website. (post #214288, reply #13 of 28)

If I type test it posts. If I actually type content it blows it to teh wind !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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The quick brown fox jumped (post #214288, reply #19 of 28)

The quick brown fox jumped over the lazy dog.  1234567890


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

What happened to the post (post #214288, reply #9 of 28)

What happened to the post supporting the back beam at the edge of the dining room? 

From your  picture, it looks like the roof loads are being dumped into the ceiling joists.  Is there another beam hidden in there to carry the loads to the wall / starway post?

 

Yeah, that first dining room (post #214288, reply #11 of 28)

Yeah, that first dining room joist is visibly bowing, even though it's apparently doubled or tripled.  That needs to be another (tall) laminated beam.


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

What happened to the post (post #214288, reply #10 of 28)

Deleted...double post

Are there Tech monitoring this busted site? (post #214288, reply #14 of 28)

TEST

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IF I type content your site blows it to the wind (post #214288, reply #15 of 28)

BROKEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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FIX this site! (post #214288, reply #16 of 28)

FIX IT

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DO I have anyone's attention? (post #214288, reply #17 of 28)

Do I have anyone's attention??????????????????????????????????????????

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I have typed .. (post #214288, reply #18 of 28)

I have typed a lengthy post four times.  Each time I "SEND"  it just disappears!

What the ....

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Living room ceiling. (post #214288, reply #28 of 28)

Your good to go on that living room ceiling. As far as the framing goes! Somebody remarked that they saw rafters buckling? All I see is maybe a weird angle on the photography or the framer not laying out the rafter bottoms in the right place. There is no way that this roof system can fail. Short of a tornado. You've got much more than collar ties, you have mucho mega beams, plus a ridge. You don't need anything else, except maybe some drywall or finish, I also heard some stuff on treating your beams the  same way, heated area and attic area. That's a load of crap. It that was the case, we'd have to redo all our houses. How many beams, in this country, do yo think are exposed to different temps and humidity?