I am looking for ways to make a nice continous bead, without the mess all over my fingers and everything else.
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Me too.
Been doing carpentry for over 30 years and still when I caulk I come away looking like lost a mayonnaise fight.
Sometimes I'll tape on either side of the joint and remove the tape as soon as I'm done. Other times I'll go to great pains to cut the tip no bigger then needed. Basically though it has to do with even constant pressure on the caulking gun, a good balanced stance and a ballerina's grace.In other words a little luck and lots of paper towels.
Good luck
practice/practice/practice
still when I caulk I come away looking like lost a mayonnaise fight.
Can I use this?.....
ROAR!!!!
Perfect discription of my caulkin"
You bet, use away. It took me a moment to think of a nicer description then I originally thought. Ha
ROTFLMAO!!!!!!
Been using that same discription. (not the mayo one)
If it's silicon, on this BB I heard about dipping your finger in laquer thinner before tooling the joint. It works! Trick with silicon seems to be to not apply too much from the gun in the first place, so the excess doesn't ooze around your finger...leaving you with a track on each side of the joint. Then you have to go back and tool those tracks! Then if all else fails, the laquer thinner works well to wipe out what you've botched up so you can start over.
I kept a good supply of rags and a trash can handy while caulking around a shower stall with really runny white silicon, and kept a dry rag corner ready to wipe fingers and tip. Toss the rag as soon as you run out of dry corners. Keep one rag hanging from your back pocket so you can resist the urge to wipe on your pants legs.
I went to an auction a few months back, a large cabinet maker in Maine had closed its doors and was selling off all its equipment (thought I'd died and gone to heaven.) I found three pneumatic glue/caulking guns. There's no make on them, but they have a dial to control the air pressure to the gun and an automatic pressure release when the trigger is released.
These guns have made caulking/gluing with tube adhesives a breeze. I dial in the bead I want, put the tip to whatever needs caulking/glueing, and squeeze, moving the tip to get a clean, bumbless bead.
I wouldn't caulk any other way. The only drawback to the gun is that they will not accept tubes with the steel ring at the base (ala Liquid Nails.)
But there are plenty of alternatives.
Get a gun, a good quality one, and you won't regret it. I don't use my finger nearly so much anymore.
Clinton,
Buy a good gun, use a wet rag and a wet finger to smooth. Keep washing your rag and finger.
KK
Try pushing your gun not pulling with practice you can apply and tool in one shot. It works for me. Did 132 windows in Hartford years ago super wanted all caulking spooned, with of all things a spoon, he accepted and was suprised at my application technique. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks. But sometimes you just have to get your finger in it.
That sounds like a good idea I'll have to try that next time. Also I never use cut markings on the tube..."1/4, 3/8's" ect. They all seem to blast out way to much caulk. (maybe thats how they get me to buy so much of it.) I always go a little smaller on the opening...of course it depends what I am caulking, but after a while you can get a feel for how big an opening you need for a particulcar job.I don't understand! I cut it twice and it's still too short!
Tooling with tape on each side gives a good looking machine applied look to problem caulks like silicone or urethane. Getting it to come out of the gun and on the subject looking good is difficult but not impossible. A "dripless" gun that stops the pressure when you quit squeezing the trigger makes it at least possible. They're only maybe 15.00 for a good one, well worth the price. The power squeeze sounds great, neve had the pleasure. If you are in the market for a professional set up (not likely unless you're doing a boatload) glaziers have a fine (almost looks like a lube gun) gun that you load with bags (tube shaped) of caulk.
Try a dripless, cut a small hole and use a 14 ga. bare ground wire to puncture the tube. Upsize the hole size till you reach a good comfort level. Best of luck.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I think I read this tip on here, but I have been using ice cubes to work all of the caulk on my new windows. It works on the larger beads fairly well.
Otherwise, the wet rag + wet finger method works too. And tape certainly helps with a clean line.
I use a pray bottle with dentured alcohol as a caulk lubricant while tooling; also the cheezy little caulk finisher can be real helpful. HowdyCee
I use a pray bottle with dentured alcohol ....
I know some people who could one of those ...._______________________
10 .... I have laid the foundation like an expert builder. Now others are building on it. But whoever is building on this foundation must be very careful.
11 For no one can lay any other foundation than the one we already have--Jesus Christ.
1 Corinthians 3:10-11
I bought a $20 gun from the local roofing supply center (I think it was made in England). The difference between the $20 gun and the typical $5 gun is reflected in the price. You DO get what you pay for.
I despise caulking but this $$ gun makes it a slight pleasure.
ES