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OK, i've read many threads about this and am still confused. I've got 36' (9/12 pitch)and 58' (4/12 "shed roof" pitches on both ends with 9/12 pitch in between) trusses with about a third of the 58' trusses having a interior bearing wall at about 26' in. Top and bottom chords are 2X6. I think the bearing walls are all pretty level. I was told the truss manufacturer had put in a little camber (or arch or whatever it's officially known as) in the bottom chords. I guess this is why the 58 footers over the bearing wall are standing off it about 3/4" (no measurement, just guess). All trusses are tied on both ends with H-1 clips to a double top plate (the bottom top plate bolted to ICF concrete and top top screwed down to it) and toe-nailed (five 16d nails each) to interior bearing wall top plates.
First question: On that interior bearing wall (garage), should I pull the toe-nails and install truss uplift clips instead?
Second question concerns interior wall/ceiling "connections". With these trusses and here in the Ozarks I plan on using truss clips on all interior non-bearing wall top plates perpendicular to bottom chords. The ceilings are to be pine or cedar T & G 1X6 or 8 attached to bottom chords with "plastic" barrier in between. What's the best way to handle the wall/ceiling interface? I could put blocking between the bottom chords for parallel walls and nail the ceiling boards completely to the bottom chords, but it seems I may look up some seasons and see a one or two inch gap and plastic. If I put up ceiling before ANY interior non-bearing walls, I still have gaps but wouldn't see plastic sheeting. Still, putting in those clips thru a finished ceiling would be a real hassle (I suppose -- haven't given too much thought to how on that...). If I attach a 2X6 nailer to top plates, would the boards take that much deflection (no nails in bottom chord within 16" of wall nor in that top plate "nailer")? And, in that case, if that part of the ceiling deflects down with uplift, what about the part that is parallel and next to the wall that is perpendicular to the bottom chords? -- keeping nails away from the wall for three board widths seems tedious at best (floating furring strips above for those?).
I lean toward the option of installing the ceiling before raising any walls but still am stumped on how to attach the clips. Assuming it could be done, I suppose some kind of molding attached only to the ceiling could "hide" the seasonal gap as it would move up and down the wall without being attached. I hope some of you have stuck with me thru all this rambling and decipher what i'm trying to picture in my mind. I really feel frustrated with all this. I want to do it right.