Deck Railings step rails contoured rail cuts against colomn.
I need to replace a set of deck stair rails.
Pretty straightforward. 2×4 PT wood top rail will be ripped on the table saw to shed water and to match the bevel on existing rails around the deck. Bottom ril 2×4 also with 2×2 spindles.
No problem with the build, my dilema is that the top and bottom hand rails that attach to the colomn at the top of the steps were cut to the contour of the rounded support colomns.
If it were a square support post it woud be a breeeze to just find the angle cut and install, but Im a little perplexed on how to achieve the angled miter while at the same time cuttingit so that it will “wrap” the column and sit snug.
This is a first for me and would apptreciate some advice on how to achieve the cut and what tool to use to do it. all I can think of would be a jigsaw perhaps set on the angle, and using something like a angle finder that I use for tiling to get the pole contour???
Any thoughts??
Replies
The cut will be an ellipse on the face of the rail. You may be able to find a site online that will print one for you.
Not sure I'm following you here Dan.
I have no problem finding the curvature of the post, if that is what you are referring to. It's the angled curved cut "in one" that I'm referring to. (Does that make sense?)
It all depends on how you want to go about it, and what tools you have at your disposal. My point was simply that, for a circular post, the corresponding hole in a slanted railing will be an ellipse.
Make a temporary work surface so that the cut is a circle.
Set the handrail up on a workbench / sawhorse / ... so that it is the same angle as it will be when installed.
Using a piece of scrap plywood, make a horizontal work surface. Tack, shim, brace, clamp, ...... in place.
Cut a circle using jig saw or router to match the post.
Great diagram.
Do you think it would be easier to set the jigsaw to the angle instead of trying to "rig" up the handrail temporarily on the necessary angle? Not sure how I could get that set up like you mentioned. Great idea, though just not sure I could set that up onsite like that.
Jigsaw bevel angle is not constant:
Because the jigsaw is pointing in different directions as it sweeps around the curve, the angle relative to the top of the handrail is not constant. The worksurface keeps the saw at the correct angle. You can do this with the rail horizontal, and the worksurface canted. The important thing is the angle between the worksurface and rail match the installed handrail angle. I just find it easier to make an accurate cut if the worksurface is horizontal.
The stairs themselves will provide a good workbench, and at the correct angle. Set up some blocks on the stairs, and clamp the rail to the blocks. You can set up the work surface at either the top or bottom, what ever is easier to work on. If you are working at the bottom end, remember to put the handrail upside down.
You can also use the old handrail if it is still up. Nail some spacer blocks to it, and use that to support the new rail.
If you have a small bench top drill press, you can set that up on the stairs, and use a hole saw or circle cutter. Set the drill press table at an angle to match the stairs, and shim/block up the rail to match.
I like the drill press idea with a hole cutting saw attachment, unfortunately i don't have one!!!
This is just essentially a cope cut. Hold the rail in position and use a scribe to trace the post onto the rail.
You have to keep the pencil pointed downhill during the scribe. Once you have the conture set your jig saw on 38 degrees and very carefully follow the line. You can also cut the line with the saw flat and use a grinbder and files to work down to the proper angle but it takes a lot of time. I'd practice on a piece of 2X first until you understand the procedure.
This is what I had envisioned from the start using a jigsaw, just wasn't sure if a jigsaw blade would be long once angled to cut clear through the 2x. Honestly, I hate using a jigsaw as it always seems to wander on "me"! I will take your advice and cut a practce piece or two, along with taking it slow along the line. What exactly did you mean by keeping the pencil "pointed down hill"?
Btw, the 38 degree angle you mention, how do you know that is the angle?
When you scribe a rail that way the point of the scribe is against the post and the pencil making the mark. Kepping it downhill means the pencil should always be parallel to the sides of the rail. If you let the pencil wander you'll end up with a radius which you don't want. I'll see if I can find a picture as it's hard ot explain.
Most conventional stairs are in the 37 to 38 degree range.
Thanks. yeah a picture would be awesome if possible!
Drill Press
The drill press/hole saw method works, although I didn't see the diameter of the posts. A couple of extra hands are helpful to steady the rail while the drilling is taking place. Make a dummy piece for practice before the final step.
hmmmm...
Is there a way to use the existing railing as a template or guide?
If you can't scribe it.
If you can't use a jig saw.
If you can't use a coping saw.
Can you cut it on the needed angle, then just use the rounded end of a belt sander to waste away the uneeded wood? Sand and test fit. Sand and test fit. Repeat.
Hmmmmmmmm..........you may be on to something! If I blow at the jigsaw try well then here's "another way"
What grit do you suggest using?
Ended up coping it with the jigsaw........worked like a chram!