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double wall shop

Earl W's picture

I see there have been a lot of posts in the past on the topic of double wall construction.  But I cant find any on this particular style.  I am planning of building a shop building.  What I would like to do is use double 2 x 4 construction with OSB ripped to 12 inch strips for the top and bottom plate.  These sections would be 8 feet high, running the length of the side wall.  where the OSB ends they would share a common 2 x 4,  so that they would all be connected together.  This would makd a wall 12" thick.  To fasten the delta rib tin I would run it horizontally accross the studs.  For insulation I would use 2" of spray foam followed with net and bib for the balance of the insulation.  To get the 16' high wall I would set another set of the pannels or prefab sections on top.  I suspect I would have to have some type of diagonal bracing or shere panel some where in each wall.   I know the trusses would have to fall on top of a stud that went all the way to the floor for strength. 

Does any one see any problems with this method.  It would allow for a lot of insulation.  All the electrical would be in conduit in side the building after it is lined.  I would also limit the windows to just a few. 

Earl (post #207397, reply #1 of 8)

Wood framed floor or concrete?

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 


I am planning on using a (post #207397, reply #2 of 8)

I am planning on using a concrete floor.  Slab on grade.  Heat tubes for in floor heat.  2" of foam under the slab,  All the good stuff.

Earl (post #207397, reply #3 of 8)

Treated plates.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 


Why? (post #207397, reply #4 of 8)

Why would you go to such trouble and expense for a shop?  Do you really plan on heating the shop full time and to a temperature above 50 or so degrees?  I find when I work on stuff 50 degrees, maybe 55 is great.  And with 16 foot walls (if I understand your plan) your heating problem is not wall thickness but heat at the ceiling which implies a need for insulation in the ceiling and a way to circulate the heat back down.  Just some thoughts, obviously it is your shop.

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Your osb top-plate is wholly (post #207397, reply #5 of 8)

Your osb top-plate is wholly inadequate with respect to shear loading on the structure. The osb won't allow sheathing to be nailed to it nor is is stiff enough to resist transmit horizontal loads across the wall. So diagonal bracing would not be effective.  

Do you really need this thick a wall? You might if your location is waaayyyyy north. I, too, like a warm shop. Mine is at 64º.

I spend most of the winter (post #207397, reply #6 of 8)

I spend most of the winter working in the shop.  We are in northern Montana so it does get rather cold.  If I cut the top outer studs 1 1/2", short and topped them with a top plate I would have a better nailer on the top.  Could also do it with the bottom outside studs to add a bottom plate.  That would have the added benefit of a way to leg it to the slab.

Like Sapwood, I'm somewhat (post #207397, reply #7 of 8)

Like Sapwood, I'm somewhat less than thrilled about the OSB plates. I also think that a 2x4 wall 16' tall is ridiculous.

 

I'd suggest looking for some LSL stud material. You can get it any length you want, it will be very straight, and the supplier can design it for you.

SIPs (post #207397, reply #8 of 8)

I'd look into Structural Insulated Panel (SIPs) construction.

There are several manufacturers in Montana.