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Drywall framed around doorway - HELP!

BrendaInIA's picture

My husband installed a new door to close in our basement bedroom. Unfortunately he hung the drywall OVER the top of the edge of the door frame. (Also around the closet doors). Now I have cut drywall edges facing inward toward the door, instead of flush with the outside edge of the door frame - so I cannot hang casing over it. There is no room to put a piece of wood trim inside the frame because of the doors....  Any suggestions?

(On one side of the entryway to the closet I was able to find this iron on (believe it or not) real wood strips that are paper thin to cover the whole thing. But I can't get theim into the rest because of the door rails, etc.)

This is a mess!

Brenda (post #205541, reply #1 of 33)

Hopefully you learned a valuable lesson on the drafting of the untrained husband for something like this in the home.

Respectfully, you can still salvage this project.

How he managed to not have the jambs flush with the drywall I do not know, but you can still trim as normal if you extend those jambs out flush with the drywall.   Rip or purchase a pc of wood the dimension that will bring the jamb flush.  This should be placed (nailed) back a bit from the face edge of the jamb-giving a reveal to the jamb.   Same thing goes with the casing, there's a reveal there as well.

Best of luck.


Edit:   To do the above, you'd have to cut back the drywall to get it away from the jamb.

so, you could I guess install J-channel made for the thickness of your drywall over that cut edge he left.  It would look bogus, but that's the way it goes.  It would finish the raw edge of drywall, while complicating the baseboard install..................

I'll edit again:  And concur that if those jambs are standard width-4-9/16", then reset them properly.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Normally, the drywall is hung (post #205541, reply #2 of 33)

Normally, the drywall is hung before the door frames go in. When installing the door jambs the edge of the jamb is held flush, or very near, with the drywall. Assuming 2x4 studs and 1/2" drywall each side, if the drywall is over your new jambs, the jamb must be sticking out too far on the other side if, it's a standard jamb. It's likely you have more than one problem so the easiest thing to do is remove the door jamb, cut the drywall even with the rough opening jacks and header, reinstall the door and jamb, apply the casing. It would take far less time and effort than trying to fudge things other ways and it would be correct, not gommed up.

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

With respect to the other (post #205541, reply #3 of 33)

With respect to the other guys, this is NOT a case for a jamb extension.  This is a case for removal and reseting of the door frame.

Cut the drywall back 3/4" to 1" from the inside edge of the frame, that should give you enough room to work.  This gap will be covered with casing, BTW, so you can cut it back 1.5" if you need to.  Onece the frame is fully exposed, unscrew it from the studs and move it so it's flush with the drywall, then re-attach.  Done!

YAY!  I love WYSISYG editing!  And Spellcheck!


What if it's nailed in? (post #205541, reply #7 of 33)

What if it's nailed in?

I think we are all getting (post #205541, reply #4 of 33)

I think we are all getting different visuals in our minds eyes about just what thedetails of this mess up are.

Can you post a photo for us to see?



Oh Well,

We did the best we could...

Right idea (post #205541, reply #5 of 33)

I think everyone is getting the right idea. What I need is some way to work this out myself. My husband, who is typically handier than this particular incident, HATES working on the house and its not going to get fixed unless I do it myself. See the attached picture of the closet door as an example of what I mean.....  (he did realize half way through what he'd done, but again... not going back to re-do).


edit: also attached... my fix for the main entry to the closet... my 'iron on' strip of wood... but as you can see at the top where the slider rail is, its not going to work everywhere.....

IMG_2202.JPG3.42 MB
IMG_2204.JPG3.32 MB

no jamb at all............ (post #205541, reply #6 of 33)

that does complicate matters.

Is it a double bifold door?  Looks like the cushion spring for it -but you mention slider hdwr...............

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Yuh huh.... (post #205541, reply #8 of 33)

Bi-fold. And the other closet door is 2 bi-folds that meet in the center. Also the main exit door which existed prior to the dry wall (its a walk out basement) is the same way..... 

I re-iterate ...  I need dummy suggestions (and instructions)  for someone who is NOT mechanically or handilly inclined (me) 'cause it ain't gonna get done no other way.

Here's the top & open side of the back door.

IMG_2208.JPG3.43 MB
IMG_2205.JPG3.27 MB

I'm left speechless (post #205541, reply #9 of 33)

so far...


But I have thoughts.

Will try to draw up something that might salvage this


BTW, some of us men have been known to botch a job that we dislike just to avoid being asked to ever do more  of the same.

I'm sutre hemust have other endearing qualities tho



Oh Well,

We did the best we could...

beneath my dismay ... I'm (post #205541, reply #12 of 33)

beneath my dismay ... I'm laughing .... Unfortunately I have lived with it like this for a few ye...  I mean a while now.... so my amusement is waning  :/

Brenda (post #205541, reply #11 of 33)

That post above to you I mentioned corner bead and 1/4 ply-those were an either / or solution that might work.  I sure as hell don't want to confuse at this point in your couple yr..............................project.

Best of luck.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Brenda (post #205541, reply #10 of 33)

How much room do you have with the bifolds closed between the door and the "jamb"?

If there's enough room.................

and you don't mind redoing that area of the painting..............

Install corner bead on each side of the wall and then finish that with powdered setting type compound-Durabond 90 for first coat, liteweight 90 for successive coats.   You'll need a 1/4" each side of the opening to make this work, so the doors don't bugger up the finish.

You'll do the head also, then remount the track.


If you could do it , you could cover the framing with 1/4" plywood, install casing to trim the door openings, then run a bead and smooth out caulking on that thin cut edge of the 1/4"/casing joint....................  It would give you the finished surface you want on the faux jamb, allow you to trim out the opening with casing.  You'll still need that room- 1/4" each side and up top also.  If it's too tight, can you cut the doors down that much? (the closet doors that is.)


That entry door is going to be a problem-might fit the 1/4" in there, but now you've got the throw on the latch to deal with.  Whatever you do, it'll scrape from trim to door jamb.  No easy fix for that-they make longer strike tongues, but none that long.



A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


bi-folds (post #205541, reply #13 of 33)

I know the double bi won't work...  its mirrored doors, not wood. that's the very first picture in the slew.

Not sure I'm slick enough to un-install the doors, shave them down and re-install.....

On the back door, same problem with hinges as latch.

Please understand that this (post #205541, reply #14 of 33)

Please understand that this is decidedly NOT Fine Homebuilding, but a way to get something better than what you have.

Hope it can work out for you. The only way to get it really right is to have a pro tear things apart and redo it. But this may not be too bad.

Open my drawing attached.

The blue boxes are the existing studs that are in the wall acting as a frame for the doors.

The red represents the exisating sheetrock

The green represents the door itself

What you are going to add is stops - light brown solids ( 1-1/2" x 3/4") and casing - darker brown solids( stock items or 3/4" x 3-1/2")


This is drawn with doors at center of frame. Offsets means that you rip the stops to a different size.



Oh Well,

We did the best we could...

practice_c.jpg28.9 KB

Now draw the entry door fix. (post #205541, reply #15 of 33)

maybe laminate as the "jamb cover".  She might have room for that thickness. 

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Idea...!!! (post #205541, reply #17 of 33)

How about all ya'll just come over to my house fix it for me (and put up the trim in the rest of my house while you're at it - I promise there's no more drywall issues) and I'll buy beer and burgers!!   :)

Okay, well it was worth a shot!

Brenda (post #205541, reply #18 of 33)


If the letters in your screen name were inOh, then that might be possible.


Do you have an eighth inch that could allow laminate (formica) to be slipped in to cover the framing on the entry door?-hinge and latch side and head?

And yes, piffin's drawing is from the top looking down.  The strips on either side of the door, cover the frame/drywall / allow trim to work / .    Up top you could do the same thing-just cover the face of the track.   However, for that to work, you might move the door into the opening a bit (so you could fasten those "stops" to the framing).

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Whaaaa?? (post #205541, reply #16 of 33)

You've worked very hard on this for me and I'm completely lost but please bare with me:

    What angle am I looking at this from... top?

   What are "stops"

   Here is what I'm seeing: the edge of the door stuck between 2 pieces of wood.... can you break this down into layman's terms? (code for construction dummy).

   I assume this is geared more toward the closet doors rather than the exit door...(which is my biggest problem. Any thoughts?)

If I understand correctly (post #205541, reply #19 of 33)

If I understand correctly that the doors are mirrored, I would have a glass company apply mirrors on the closet door jamb.  You could then apply wood trim on the wall slightly overlapping the edge of the mirror for protection.

It's also possible to have metal trim bent up to cover the edge of the stud and wrap over the wall a small bit.  You would have to fasten the metal trim with construction adhesive and brace it until it sets so that it is not wrinkled or uneven. Apply trim of your choice on the wall.  If the metal is painted it will look OK, or at least not be noticable.

Ok, this time I have a REAL idea.... (post #205541, reply #21 of 33)

     I'm sitting in my office looking at these pictures and all these suggestions and here's what popped into my  mind (and MAYBE this is what some of you meant but I just didn't understand the explanation - just in case I need to give credit to someone else for my brilliant idea, ha!)

    So.... what if I trim back the drywall an inch or two, replace that cut out space with a piece of wood the same thickness as the drywall (I can always putty the seam between the original frame and that piece of wood and paint). THEN I can install the casing over that... 
No redoing drywall or re-paining involved, assuming I cut straight.

I think that MIGHT even work on all 3 sets of doors :)  (now I just have to find a stick of pretty wood thin enough so I don't have to rip it down myself, 'cause it might not be too pretty by the time I get finished with it!!!).


Thanks for mulling this over with me guys!


(hey, check out my drawing! So the green is the inside door frame. The gray is the drywall face. The red is where I would cut back the drywall and replace with the strip of wood the same thickness as the drywall). Did I do good?

door_frame.jpg62.66 KB

Brenda (post #205541, reply #20 of 33)

Listen, you come and do my end of year bookwork and I'll come over there and take care of the problem.




Yes, that would solve the casing/edge problem-allowing you to run base into the casing.

But, the seam between the 2x4 framing and the wood you add won't be "real" pretty.  If all the trim is painted, that caulk detail and the rougher 2x4 (which you could spackle, sand and paint) won't look so bad. 

Have at it.


For the small pc of wood you wouldn't have to rip:

You might ask at your lumber yard for parting stop-it's what was between the sash in older wood windows.  Seems it's 1/2 x 3/4 or thereabouts (measure it ) .   That means you only have to cut back the sheetrock an inch or so-he might have only 1-2x4 in there (1-1/2").

Best of luck.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


Deal! (post #205541, reply #22 of 33)

Calvin, as long as I don't have to do taxes, you got yourself a deal!

I'm saavy enough to make it look nice once the rest is over with. I have a couple of ideas. I think once I'm done, nobody will know the difference without REALLY looking at it.

Now I just gotta find the time and get abitious enough to start and finish it!! (Take heart, guys aren't the only ones that start projects and take forever to finish them!) However- as there is no mudding and sanding involved ('cause it takes me forever to do a good job) I should be good!


Thanks again everyone!



My simple solution (post #205541, reply #23 of 33)

I would take a utility knife and cut back the drywall enough where you could attach the trim directly to the studs and overlap the jamb for a nice reveal then caulk the joint where the drywall butts against your trim.   As long as your trim is not too wide (<2" 3/4) you should still have backing for both the trim and the drywall

drop (post #205541, reply #24 of 33)

Take a closer look, there are no jambs.  The edge of wood you see is the stud the sheetrock is fastened to.  She doesn't have room for your suggestion, especially if the stud's not doubled.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


good catch (post #205541, reply #27 of 33)

I thought when she mentioned her husband's initial install there were jambs involved.  I guess I just assumed, the same with having a trimmer/stud to frame the doorway.  I guess in a case like this I shouldn't take anything for granted.  Can the stud simply be spackled (to patch up any ugly spots) sanded and painted to look finished?  If so then same solution, in the case that there are 3" of backing just a 1 1/2" trim.  If its only a single stud then it might be even easier, just cut the drywall back a little bigger than 1 1/2 (or whatever you need to accomodate your trim width) then slide in a 2x4 (or even a 1x4 or 1x3) turn it flat ways and screw thru the stud from in the doorway and secure the other side to the drywall.  Now you have backing for your trim.  Not as simple but still do-able.

A word of caution re: (post #205541, reply #25 of 33)

A word of caution re: basement sleeping rooms.  By code a basement sleeping room must have an escape route- in case of fire- that leads directly to the exterior of the dwelling.  There are specific minimum dimensions and other requirements before a basement room can be used for sleeping.  Exiting from the sleeping area into another part of the basement  to get to an escape opening does not satisfy the code.

But forget the code.  Anyone who sleeps in a room,-on any floor- that does not offer an escape route to the exterior is greatly increasing their chance of death by fire.

No worries (post #205541, reply #26 of 33)

No worries, our room is a WALK OUT basement room...  (in other words... a door that exits to the outside of the house... right by my bed)

And the other bedroom in the basement has an egress window especially designed and installed by a professional company for the purpose of fire escape.

Thank you so much for your concern, but just 'cause it ain't pretty, don't mean it ain't safe

oops (post #205541, reply #29 of 33)

oops. Sorry, hit the post button twice

Technical mumbo jumbo (post #205541, reply #28 of 33)

That would be my fault. I'm sure I did say "door jamb" however, that was just me not knowing what the appropriate term was. That being said... one doorway DOES in fact have a jamb, the other 2 are installed directly within the frame - (now that I think am clear as to the appropriate terminology).

Brenda (post #205541, reply #30 of 33)

You're getting the hang of it.

So, how's it going on those jambs and jamb-ettes?

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.