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Drywalling around shower surround

CanCraftsman's picture

Good Morning:

I have a question about drywalling around a one piece acrylic tub/shower surround.  I asked my drywall supplier and plumbing wholesaler and they counldn't really help me.  The unit has a 1" lip around on three sides and I wanted to know the best method for dywalling around it to keep water from damaging the greenboard.  I was looking at my shower stall upstairs and it seemed the builder trimmed between the drywall and surround with primed pine and caulked both sides. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


(post #97810, reply #1 of 11)

I shim the frame out enough over the flange to let the drywall finish flush down over that lip. Use a setting type compound, not premixed to tape it in.



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(post #97810, reply #2 of 11)

Since it's sunday, and if furring out the frame might cause problems, you could (and this is not ideal/but will work) back cut the sheetrock enough to lay over the flange, holding the sheetrock short enough from the surround to caulk in.  Or, cut the sheetrock to the flange edge, fill and flat tape the rest down to the surround. Use dry setting type.  Be wary of expanding compound and bubbles in the tape.  When done, cut back a small groove where comp meets surround and apply a finished bead of caulk.

To prevent wicking at joints of surround where they meet the drywall (usual area of problem) apply a bead of caulk that diverts the water out of the joint.  This should keep the water from getting in behind the taped or sheetrocked edge.

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(post #97810, reply #3 of 11)


I trim out the drywall out with J trim,and after I am finished with

mudding ,sanding, and painting I caulk the space between the

J trim and the tub surround. Ed

(post #97810, reply #4 of 11)

I know that many people use green board.

I preferr to use cement board of hardiboard. Ie something with real substance to it.

Anyone that uses gypsumboard(-white/green or purple etc ) of any type just ain't fixed enuf showers in my mind.

in Calgary

(post #97810, reply #5 of 11)

I just want to paint the drywalled area.  Can you paint cement board?



(post #97810, reply #6 of 11)

not without it looking like crap. The cement board goes under the tile.......


(post #97810, reply #7 of 11)

Little late  if you hung the board yesterday.

I agree wit piffen. I fur out the wall with strips of luan stabled to the face of each stud. If the flang is real thick, I have use 1/4" plywood  for furring strips. One sheeu of luan or plywood ripp into a lot of furring strips 1 1/2" wide.



(post #97810, reply #9 of 11)

Yes you can!

Just have to skim coat it with setting mud (like plaster)

paint with the best MR paint you can get.

A drywaller wil Biatch about this but they will do that any how if there is anyone in earshot!!!

Above and around a tub/shower is a brutal environment for drywall MR or not.

Schment board will hold up where drywall will eventually turn to mush.


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(post #97810, reply #10 of 11)

We have alway simply used a cement based mud in the joint, paint and caulk. Never fails. Course tile is better and drywall guy's do [CUTE LITTLE PUPPY].

Edited 4/1/2005 9:45 am ET by Dork

Edited 4/1/2005 9:47 am ET by Kelowna

(post #97810, reply #11 of 11)

Shim the drywall ever so slightly so it goes up and over the flange. 100% silicone caulk in a quarter inch gap. Cement based joint compound, wet area type primer (2 coats) and wet area type paint. Should be fine, so long as the drywall does not get any spray on it.

I share the concern of some here that CBU is a better product choice here, but many shower tub units have the fiberglass going a good 3-4 feet above the tub surface, so there is no direct spray on the drywall. If that is the case, you will be fine. However, if the drywall receives any spray, you are wasting your time, and this installation will quickly turn into mush.


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(post #97810, reply #8 of 11)

Piffin already struck dead center .

Water dont seem to bother hot mud very much. Normally on setting you can notch the back lip in the studs thus taking care of the back. The lumber yard throws away packing panels that are an 1/8 of an inch luan. Those ripp nicely on a table saw, or a cedar stud ripped in 1/4s make nice shims on the face of each stud. Easy ripping too.