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fieldstone chinmey headache
Currently trying to reside a 80 year old shiplap sided house with a great fieldstone chimney, the only problem is meeting the siding with the round fieldstone who ever did it about 40 years ago just scribed the siding to the stone the only problem is water and lots of it the answer for the home owner up to this point has been silicone. Needless to say that is not a solution. Anyone know any tricks. I was gonna cut the stone and try to flash. The interior wall framing will need to be replaced too. It's a mess, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hmm? (post #207406, reply #1 of 6)
Not sure what inside framing you are saying needs to be replaced. But if it is directly behind the stone it sounds like you would be half way to where you need to be to more eaily flash it.
I seem to recall an "This Old house" or "Ask this Old House" episode where they did something like what you are dealing with. YOu might google it and see..
Thanks for the input I will (post #207406, reply #4 of 6)
60 (post #207406, reply #2 of 6)
Is this real stone? If so, is there block behind and the stone is a veneer?
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
It's real stone large round (post #207406, reply #3 of 6)
60 (post #207406, reply #5 of 6)
I've been looking for some details online for flashing of stone to sidewall-zip.
The only couple I've seen did in fact have a flashing that was let into the masonry at the side wall framing. The stone veneer ended in a straight vertical line, the flashing tucked back in (I assume through to the backside of the stone-face of the block). This came out onto a corner board-the siding butted up to the corner board.
When you excavate, you may find the answer.
Potential for failure even with flashing will be unsealed bare wood. If water gets behind-the wood inside corner or siding (which I would not do up to the stone), it soaks up, never dries, continues the expansion and soaking and eventually gives up the ghost. Then it becomes a sponge that works on the sheeting/framing.
Silicone sealant sucks in this application (and many others).
I would only use Urethane caulk as a final finish when necessary to disimilar material like wood and masonry.
Do some searching on masonry sites, you may get lucky on a good detail for flashing of stone in a sidewall application.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Something I'd consider is (post #207406, reply #6 of 6)
Something I'd consider is "loving" the current situation. Instead of trying to obtain a tight seal, build "exterior" walls facing the chimney (with a few inches of air space) and arrange to drain any water that leaks into the chimney chase. Then get the best scribed seal you can, but don't rely on that to keep thiings dry or to keep the air out.
Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed. --Herman Melville