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framing corners when using 2 x 6's

waltwood's picture

I know this might be a basic question but what is the best way to frame an outside corner when using 2 x 6's?  If you do the stud, blocks stud way as in 2 x 4 constuction the thickness adds up to 4 1/2 " and is not wide enough to catch the drywall on the inside of the intersecting wall. I have done it several ways and always have to think about whereas other framing is second nature to me. I  have been putting 2 studs together in an "L" shape but want to know what others do.

I use the two-stud, L-shaped (post #207503, reply #1 of 7)

I use the two-stud, L-shaped corner. It provides nailing for the sheathing and the drywall, plus it's easy to insulate. The only disadvantage is if you need nailing for a wide cornerboard. In that case, you could add a third stud and create a U-shaped corner, while still leaving some room for insulation.


Senior Editor, Fine Homebuilding

A lot of guys around here use (post #207503, reply #2 of 7)

A lot of guys around here use solid corners and add studs for the inside corner, often use solid headers, too. I rip some 4" blocks and build like a 2x4 corner.

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

The Green, material efficient way (post #207503, reply #3 of 7)

This detail comes from the Green Building Advisor webpage. 

It uses the least material, and is the easiest to insulate effectively. 

Green isn't always right (post #207503, reply #4 of 7)

The method as depicted in your drawing may indeed use less material, but within the context of an entire house, the material saved isn't all that much. I like to use two studs in an L shape for the through wall. That configuration makes for a much stronger corner by providing a lot of nailing surface. The comfort that strength gives me more than offsets the lumber used and slight decrease in insulation. 

By the way: Thanks for adding the drawing. These sorts of discussions are much more comprehensible when details are made clear.

2x6 (post #207503, reply #5 of 7)

We use the three 2x6 method, the 1x4 in the drawing would actually be a 2x6 placed in the "L" when framing the first wall.  This is still very easy to insulate, provides a stronger corner & like sapwood stated, the total difference in a whole house is minimal.  Besides, we should support our timber industry!!

Gary- Research and Development


I'm thinking that some years (post #207503, reply #6 of 7)

I'm thinking that some years back I saw a plan for a U-shaped corner which could be effectively insulated.  Can't find a picture on the net, though, and I can't remember the details.  (I do remember that it's in a notebook in a bin of junk out in the garage, but we don't want to go there.)

Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

As a slight step to the side (post #207503, reply #7 of 7)

Do they make 3X6?

The structural who draws up most of out stuff requires 3X material for nailing edges on shear panels to keep the nails at least 1-inch form the edge of the panel and the edge of the studs.   

I can order 3X4 at the local yard but haven't tried for a 3X6.