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Hanging Blueboard

OregonBob's picture

I'll be hanging blueboard which will be finished later by a professional plasterer.  Haven't found one yet who has time to give me a bid.


I'll be going over new wood framing.  I've got four questions somebody might be able to help with:


Can I use 1/2" for both walls and ceiling, or should I use 5/8" on the walls?


How close together to I need to put fasteners in the field?


Should I install a plastic vapor barrier on the bottom chords of my trusses before I hang the ceiling?


Since this is an addition over my garage, when I re-rock the garage ceiling, does it need to be fire-rated board?


Thanks for any help you can give.


 

(post #95616, reply #1 of 8)

Ok..lets try this out


5/8ths on the ciel, 1/2 on walls ESP if 2' centers.


field screws at 1/3 the width


VB depends on the insul situ. unfaced batts? yes, use VB. Any other VB? Nope, skip it


Fire rated? thats code in a lot of places..me? I would, after all it ain't that much more for added time in the event of a burn..


 


Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks


Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations. 


 


 

www.richmondrenovationsandrestoration.com  

(post #95616, reply #2 of 8)

Ditto, no 1/2 on the lid, always use 5/8 and use type X anywhere in the garage. Screws 6" around the edge and 12" in the field is usual.

(post #95616, reply #3 of 8)

If you are asking about 5/8 or 1/2 board for the ceiling of the rooms above the garage, 1/2 is fine.  The 5/8 has to go on the garage ceiling below and on any garage walls adjacent to living spaces.


Sam

(post #95616, reply #4 of 8)

What I need to ask you (as one interested in helping) and as one who finishes, are you sure you can hang that board right? I would suggest you cough up the extra day's pay if you aren't sure what "to spotlight quality standards" means. sorry if that sounds mean...

Scribe once, cut once!

(post #95616, reply #5 of 8)

Not offended by your question at all. 


I did find the person who is interested in finishing.  He does great work, and was more than happy to give me some pointers on hanging.  He loves to find folks interested in doing their own hanging because the job then becomes only a day or two long, versus three or four.  He can then work these small jobs in, if some other big job gets put off a day or two.  He's really busy, so by doing the hanging myself, I save some money and actually move up on his work list.  I just have to be flexible.


You're right.  I've never hung blue board, but I've hung plenty of drywall, so I thought I'd give this a shot. 


Here's the advice the finisher gave me: 


Use 1/2" on the walls, if the studs are spaced 16" OC.  If the studs are 24" OC, or you're doing a ceiling, use 5/8".  On the 1/2" stuff, fasten every 6" on the edges and every 12" in the field.  For 5/8", fasten every 6" on the edges and every 8" in the field.  Use fire-rated board in the garage ceiling.  Don't worry about a plastic vapor barrier;  use vapor barrier primer instead, since you've got to prime anyway.  He'll be doing the seams and corner bead, so I don't have to worry about that.  He did ask that I go back over every board, when I'm done, and make sure I don't have any missing or "proud" fasteners.  Good advice, and it saves him a lot of time.


Sound about right to you?


Hope you feel better knowing I've gotten this advice.  thanks for your help and the honest question!


 

(post #95616, reply #6 of 8)

    OB , good advice from the plasterer, In my neck of the woods all 5/8" comes rated Type X, Second,if the ceiling(s) you're doing are trussed, then I would suggest you keep your nailing 12-16" back from any intersecting perpendicular wall(If you have hung a lot of grey board,as you indicated,then you know to hang the lid (ceiling ) first , the wall sheet will help support the outer edge around the room.)


   Using this nailing schedule will help prevent cracking along the ceiling line where the wall intersects the trusses, hopefully your framer DIDN'T nail the trusses to the wall, unless specifically instructed to do so by the truss installation specs. The lack of a screw no closer than 12-16" will allow the truss to "float" free of the drywall with out causing stress(cracking)along the ceiling line as the truss "moves" during seasonal changes. (called truss up-lift)


   On the nailing schedule given to you, IMO you need only to stick with the 12" in the field and along the edge for either 1/2" or 5/8" board. I might suggest bumping up to 1 5/8" screws for the 5/8 board, especially on the ceilings. My preference on the lid is to double screw 5/8 board,(install two screws right next to each other following the same 12" pattern). Also, be sure to use coarse thread screws NOT fine thread, they're for metal studs.  Good Luck!


                                                              Geoff

(post #95616, reply #8 of 8)

Geoff

Nice advice.

I "Always" dbl screw all my boards in the field and on the edges.

Specially on the ceilings.

I also hand the boards with nails to get em' up. Its just eaisier for me that way then I continue with course screws....of course

BE hung

andy

The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!




http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

(post #95616, reply #7 of 8)

GOOD! I'm glad you were led the right way,Im sure he made certain you hung your board tight and sound,with even, narrow joints.(I've been a craftsman for about 26 years,12 of them in home repairs) last week I got back from a trip to the "Depot" for supplies to find my helper whom I trust alot hanging the first piece on a wall on the bottom... a no-no when its in a home with a wood floor, at least by my methods.


 

Scribe once, cut once!