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Hanging stair stringers from hanger board. Is this ok?

Hunter8it's picture

I need some stair advice.  I am hanging stairs for my deck.  The first stair is 7" from the deck surface (see picture), so the stringers cannot be attached to the double joist headers.  This part of the deck is overhanging so there are no posts to attach another 2x8 below the header.  Can I hang these stringers from a hanger board?  (I glued and nailed a piece of 3/4" ply to the header so that it extended slow enough to hang the stringers)  There are 11 stairs, so it is no small staircase.  This is all how the old staircase was put together, but that doesn't mean it was right so I want to check with the forum.  Also, I am adding a third stringer that wasn't there before to stiffen up the staircase.

 

Question 2:  If the above is ok, can I use hangers like the USP CSH-TZ or should I glue and screw directly?

http://www.amazon.com/USP-Structural-Connectors-CSH-TZ-G185-Triple/dp/B002M7FOS2

 

Thanks for the advice.

I would think that you would (post #205950, reply #1 of 5)

I would think that you would be better off extending your stringer.  Notching it under your 2x8 rimjoist and tying it in to the next joist back . . . or into blocking installed between your joists if they are running parallel to your stringers.

 

Len

I'd be concerned that (post #205950, reply #2 of 5)

I'd be concerned that ordinary plywood wouldn't hold up to the weather.


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

This part of the deck is (post #205950, reply #3 of 5)

This part of the deck is overhanging so there are no posts to attach another 2x8 below the header.

I had almost exactly the same problem just a few months ago when I rebuilt my deck stairway. I was rebuilding a stairway that went from an outside 1F deck up to a cantalevered veranda on the 2F. The cantalever was formed by the 2F 2x10 floor joists.
I actually had two problems: the stairs themselves and the fact that the "header" joist had dry rot for about half it's 1 meter length. I first sistered on a new section of PT 2x10 to repair the rot damage, but that created twice the original thickness of the header joist. What I did was: extended the doubled header joist downward by attaching doubled 2x4s, which I fixed in place using two thick steel straps and a center gusset of 2x8. (I probably should have used 2x6 instead of 2x4 for the extension.)

Side-view schematic:

 

View from underneath:

In any event, I think I would prefer to use 2x material for the extension rather than 3/4" plywood.

 

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". . . and only the stump, or fishy part of him remained."

With regard to your second (post #205950, reply #4 of 5)

With regard to your second question:

Question 2:  If the above is ok, can I use hangers like the USP CSH-TZ or should I glue and screw directly?

I can't give advice re the utility of those hangers, but I probably would have used a similar product if I could have. Unfortunately, I couldn't use commercial metal hangers since the stringers had to be mounted at a 10° skew angle relative to the 2F veranda (house design issues). Instead, I bought steel "L-angle" supports and opened up the L by 10° in the vise before installing. On the underside I also attached two SS L braces under the top ends of two of the stringers. I know it looks kind of Rube Goldberg-ish, but I didn't have a lot of choice. I used a lot of SS lag screws as well.

 

 

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". . . and only the stump, or fishy part of him remained."

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I Use metal strap ties in (post #205950, reply #5 of 5)

I Use metal strap ties in situations like that. Even if you use PT ply that may not rot, I would be concerned about delamination

 

 

Oh Well,

We did the best we could...