HOW to install those new under cabinet light strips?
We have just hung all the cabinets for a new kitchen and are getting close to installing this latest in undercabinet lighting – the filmstrip LEDs. I like LEDs. I hadn’t seen these.
The way I see the problem – they have come out with this faster than they have developed the way to use the stuff.
I’m hesitant for example to trust the sticky back to hold the light strip to the bottom of the cabinet for 20 years. If it does what will come off with it?
We are wrestling with two things as we’ve been trying to figure this out ahead. First – the countertop is quartz and reflective. The customer doesn’t want a row of dots revlecting – especially if they’re not perfectly straight. We saw what she meant at the showroom. I ask them what about putting it on top of the undercabinet trim and making it indirect – but the designer said that wouldn’t get enough light out of these.
We ordered a diffuser. It’s an aluminum “U” with a lens. The lens isn’t easy to get out. The aluminum is of course conductive. Every so often in this strip there is a place where there are “contacts” to be had. I don’t trust the strip inside aluminum. Plus, if there is a need to work on the strips first you have to get the lens popped out (hopefully without breaking it because it’s discontinued), then remove the screws inside the aluminum holder, then, then,.
We have an idea – but I don’t want to interfere with any incoming better or great solutions I’ve overlooked. If you know the best way I hope you’ll give us a clue. I know I’ll appreciate it.
Replies
I've used the channels and diffusers from elementalLED before. No issues with either the channels, shorts, or getting the diffusers on or off.
I'll be using them again in a couple of weeks, but for a slightly different application. I'll be inserting the strip light into a channel in the bottom of a run of closet rods. See how that works out.
adhesive tape or mounting brakets?
The ElementalLED products look pretty nice. When you used the aluminum channels did you use the mounting brackets or just use teh tape?
tape only
Fonzie
tape a pc up , on edge just inside the light rail. Sort of the way you suggested. Point it towards the backsplash, hide the dots appearing by keeping it just back of the edge of the light rail.
shouldn't be a problem
The 3M backing sticks well to the aluminum channel. I've never had a probelm with conduction or the flexible polymer diffuser either.
Here is one example whre we used it for as indirect lighting of a cathedral timber framed ceiling at the top of wall. We routed the 5/8" x 7/8" dadoes in the heel of the trusses while framing (3'0" O.C.trusses)...and then slide the tracks in 30" (5' stock cut in half) sections. Butted them up and then slide 15' of LEDstrips and diffuser as we worked back to feed each side. Dimmable and works great. Not cheap. These are meant for long service life w/o regular maintainence, but we made it is accessible if necessary. The D.Fir trim valence is made in two pieces with the top piece simply dry fit into a lower valence dado.
Looks great, but
But there is no insulation?
Sure there is
There's plenty of insulation. It's outboard of the finishes you're seeing in the photos I presented.
on the ..
on the outside of the blocking between the beam work?
off topic issue
Insulating exposed timber frame construction is not the piont of this thread and I don't want to get off topic. I posted the LED strip light photo to show an application with this product that might be helpful to Fonzi or others.. Send me a P.M. and I'd be happy to anwswer any questions you have about this particular project with regard to insulation or framing.
So in other words ..
There is no insulation or air sealing at the plate to blocking junction. As I thought. Thanks.
Here's the way we ended up installing the LED tape under cabinet lights. We ripped a 1 1/8 strip of cabinet filler, routed a 1/4 x 1/4 notch to allow a strip of 1 1/2 difuser to lay in the notch and on top of the under cabinet trim. I picked an extra thick diamond diffuser panel and cut it into 1 1/2 inch strips.
We cut a 1/4 x 3/8 rabbet in the top to allow a 1/4 strip with a groove for the light strip. All the inside was painted white
We put the system together in a "U" shape, installed the LED strip with connector and drilled to be held up with 1 5/8 torx.
The diffuser strip on the side where the connection is made needed to be put in in two pieces to make it easy. The difuser helped hold the wire connection up and over to the side.
Removing 3 screws will get the system down for strip replacement.
I found out the strip won't work if polarity is backwards. So I started at the first of the circuit and got the polarity right as I went down the line.
Also, (I suppose this in the unclear directions) you can't just cut the atrip just anywhere - it has to be cut at the special cut lines. I was to the end and thought I could just cut it off - the last two lights didn't work. I had to solder on a piece.
I plan to post a picture when we get the tile on the backsplash, window trimmed, etc.