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How to remove Trex-type decking

resarch's picture

How to remove Trex-type decking (post #186241)

resarch on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 09:15
in

An existing Trex deck needs to be relocated on a house and the wear surface "boards" need to come up for later reinstallation.  They are installed with countersunk hex-head screws and over 50% are stripping out in a test area.  Is there a better way to get at these fasteners or a better technique to use then just going at it with a drill and some elbow grease?

-A +A

Use an impact driver. (post #186241, reply #1 of 8)

by MarkH in reply to resarch [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 12:45

Use an impact driver.

Are the screws stainless (post #186241, reply #2 of 8)

by florida in reply to resarch [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 12:51

Are the screws stainless steel? If they are you have no hope of backing them out, you'll have to cut them off from underneath.

Screws, Hex? (post #186241, reply #3 of 8)

by calvin in reply to resarch [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 14:51

You mention hex head screws.  Being backward and from NW Oh, I have not seen deck screws that were hex headed. 

There's phillips, combo phillips/squaredrive, square drive, and star drive-I forget the christian name for them.  Perhaps that's what you are talking about.  The proper bit (and there's many-way too many in my mind.  25's which accept and strip out using 20's.  Big 30's and small 15's I guess for the finish screws.

You need the proper one for any chance of removal

and then an impact using the lower power setting usually will back them out.  Tearout of the surface might happen.

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Screws, Hex? (post #186241, reply #4 of 8)

by resarch in reply to calvin [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 15:47

Sorry.  You are correct that the term for the screw head is "Square Drive" and not "Hex".  I will check on the bit versus screw head sizing and we were not using an impact driver either, so hopefully one or both issues will bear fruit.

Screwed (post #186241, reply #5 of 8)

by calvin in reply to resarch [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 15:57

There are only 2 sizes in the sq. drive that I know of in common use.  Can't give you the number either-small and larger.......

The impact will make a big difference-use that along with some serious umph on top of it.  You want the max torque and the slowest speed.   Lean on it in low.

Best of luck.

 

ps.  We used to use a hammer and screwdriver, tapping soundly as we gave it force turning on the screw.

No longer necessary with a sweet impact driver.

If stainless, as has been mentioned-good luck.  Most asian ss is pretty soft.  What they didn't booger up putting in, you'll surely booger up trying to take out.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

There are only 2 sizes in the sq. drive that I know of in common (post #186241, reply #6 of 8)

by Snort in reply to calvin [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 16:33

I use the Swan Secure stainless 2 1/4 trim heads ( which is now Simpson, I think). They used to come with a #1 tip in the box. Very rarely cammed out... other kinds would. Maybe the not all screw tips are the same?

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Chapel Hill, NC

 

We'll have a kid Or maybe we'll rent one He's got to be straight We don't want a bent one He'll drink his baby brew From a big brass cup Someday he may be president If things loosen up

That damn Murphy (post #186241, reply #7 of 8)

by calvin in reply to Snort [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 17:48

Happy St Patricks day!

And to you too Murphy.  You wrote the book on this I'm sure.

Put 'em in to never take 'em out and all goes fine.

Put 'em in with the chance of taking them out (your brother provides the reason) and you Mr. Murphy make it almost impossible.

 

There's a law or something.......

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

if they are "trapease " type screws ( double threaded) OUCH! (post #186241, reply #8 of 8)

by jimatgreatwhite in reply to resarch [original] on Wed, 03/17/2010 - 20:35

you may not be able to have much success.

If the site allows it may be more effective (less of a bother) to just remove enough decking to get the deck unhooked from the house and relocate it wiht a crane in one piece,

I've done it once before, it takes some careful planning. I'd guess maybe fewer headaches then trying to free that decking without ruining the deckin or your day.

 

jim at great white