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Knockdown Metal Door Questions

cwcjr09's picture

Knockdown Metal Door Questions (post #185881)

cwcjr09 on Tue, 03/09/2010 - 14:34
in

Recently was asked to replace a front entry door for a carry-out owner in my neighborhood. We both agreed that a door with a metal jamb would be the best choice as kick-ins are a major problem here.

He purchased a 36", out-swing,  knockdown metal door from Home Depot. Comes complete with deadbolt and lockset. But I am pretty sure that does not include a threshold or any weather stripping. 

I have not installed a knockdown frame before and am curious about securing the jambs. the opening is 40" 2x4 with 1/2 plywood on the exterior and 1/2 sheetrock on the interior. Do the jambs come pre-drilled to run screws into my trimmer studs? Anything I ned to account for or may be overlooking?

Thanks for any feedback in advance.

 

 

-A +A

If this is a commercial door (post #185881, reply #1 of 6)

by calvin in reply to cwcjr09 [original] on Tue, 03/09/2010 - 15:47

If this is a commercial door frame you will find a pair of countersunk holes on the bottom of each leg.  You fasten through your frame (don't use drywall screws-too weak and rustable..    The head should have a couple of slots where the top end of the jambs tabs fit into.  You don't bend the tabs over.  There is a set screw which tightens a flat plate against your framing, effectively holding the frame in place from each side.

They don't usually come with a threshold or weatherstripping. 

I've never gotten them at a box store-might not even be what you are talking about.

You would need to know the throat size (that slips around your framing)-in your case 4-1/2 or slightly more.  Most commercial knockdown drywall frames have a wider throat-3-5/8's steel stud plus two layers of 5/8's drywall.

At 40'', your opening is too big for a 36'' door.  You don't want the opening much more than an inch and a 1/4'' bigger than the door size.  The height too is only an inch taller than the door ht.  Commercial frames "surround" the opening.

The more I type the more I think you are getting something else.

Sorry for the waste of time spent reading.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

no you're not wasting time. (post #185881, reply #2 of 6)

by cwcjr09 in reply to cwcjr09 [original] on Fri, 03/12/2010 - 17:52

no you're not wasting time. Thanks for the feedback.

From my research what you are describing sounds exactly like what I am supposed to be getting. They just never really mentioned any countersunk holes and that's what i wanted to know- some detail on how exactly I will be able to fasten the jambs.

I guess I'll just have to get some off the shelf weatherstripping.

Nothing like time well spent (post #185881, reply #3 of 6)

by calvin in reply to cwcjr09 [original] on Fri, 03/12/2010 - 20:58

The brand of commercial steel door I use most often is Ceco.

http://www.cecodoor.com/default.aspx?Doc=Leed.htm

Hunt around their site and see if there's some install instructions or perhaps a tech manual on those "drywall" frames.

I have also drilled and bolted to block or frame in the mid frame area.  Not usual nor reall necessary but sometimes you do what is needed in a certain application.

Best fo luck.

And what was your opening again?  See what Ceco's R.O. specs are.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

Calvin has you on track for (post #185881, reply #6 of 6)

by DaveRicheson in reply to cwcjr09 [original] on Tue, 03/16/2010 - 13:54
Calvin has you on track for the install. You need to purchase a threshold for the bottom and a sweep for the outside face. The threshold is ussualy 1/2, 5/8, or hiboy 3/4" alum. It will be the same width as the jambs and can be cut to fit. The treshold is a simple up and down transtion with a flat spot beneath the door. There is no adjustable seal or stop on it. It needs to be smooth so there is no tripping hazard in a commercial operation. It is also ADA approved. Since it is an outswing, the sweep needs to go outside at the bottom of the door, and as tight as you can get it the treshold, without binding. I would also use some type of drip cap flashing above the head of the jamb if it is exposed to the weather. If it is under a decent overhang or awning, you can skip the head flashing. Otherwise any water hitting that knockdown head jamb will find it's way inside quicker than across the top of the door.

I opens out? What about the (post #185881, reply #4 of 6)

by norman in reply to cwcjr09 [original] on Tue, 03/16/2010 - 08:36

I opens out? What about the hinge pins? Are they exposed? I don't have to kick in a door that I can pull of its hinges.

A good question (post #185881, reply #5 of 6)

by calvin in reply to norman [original] on Tue, 03/16/2010 - 08:58

And one would hope has been asked by the supplier or spec'd by the customer.  Non Removable Pins would be the standard.  Set screws only visible when door is opened.

or the residential style hinge which has a tab on one leaf and the mating hole on the other-even with pin removed-cannot  easily pry door out. when closed.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/