I have a full 12 inch of sub fascia on the ends of 2 x 12 rafters. There is a 2 x 12 actaul sub fascia on which to nail the actaul fascia. I wish to have a double stacked fascia, ie a 1×8 nailed low and then as second 1×8 nails above it overlapping the first by an inch or so. What is the best practice for nailing the fascia to avoid splits? Nail the first low and only low, letting the second board hold the first down? Then nail the second … where or how?
Thanks in advance.
Replies
Suggest you use PVC and fasten with SS screws if your budget allows. Versatex has very detailed fastening schedules for their product: http://www.versatex.com/PDF/Versatex_installs.pdf
why would I ...
Why would I put that crap on my house? Might as well live in a cave.
Interesting
Why do you consider it "crap"? And what does it have to do, in particular, with cave dwelling?
Plastic houses?
ZERO Character. Did I say no character? Oh, yes I did. At least a cave has interesting veining in the rock. It might be damp, but it would have character. Plastic? Well, crap .. comes to might. I do have plenty of company in this opinion, not that that matters. If all you can do is plastic siding, then sure put crap plastic up for Fasia. Perhaps teh windos should be plexi-glass as well. You could do that, but .....
So as I was saying what is best practice of nailing double stacked cedar fascia. That was the question.
Plastic houses?
ZERO Character. Did I say no character? Oh, yes I did. At least a cave has interesting veining in the rock. It might be damp, but it would have character. Plastic? Well, crap .. comes to might. I do have plenty of company in this opinion, not that that matters. If all you can do is plastic siding, then sure put crap plastic up for Fasia. Perhaps teh windos should be plexi-glass as well. You could do that, but .....
So as I was saying what is best practice of nailing double stacked cedar fascia. That was the question.
Revisionism in its finest form
@Do Right-
A true revisionist. And doesn't even try to cover it up. Wow. You'd make Stalin proud.
Actually your original post never mentions the word "cedar". But you can be forgivin as you seem to be living in your own miopic neanderthal world.
For those living in the 21st centruy, you may want to consider PVC for fascia and rake work . It is a perfectly viable (and in many ways superior) exterior trim material. It's achieving an ever growning market share for exterior trim, is considered a green recyclable material, is used on high end homes just about everywhere, and is accepeted in many cases for restoration jobs in historical districts.
For those still living in those damp caves and want "character", Versatex makes it in a cedar grain finish. Better yet, it won't rot in your damp environment. Just sayin'.
Snooty reply deserves ..
Your original reply was snotty, so deserved a snooty reply. So returned. If i was interested in PVC I would have asked about PVC.
Now, if you wish to build a colonial home you might consider PVC. Probably an excellent chose. I am not building a colonial so asked about double stacked wood. Obviously, unless you are a moron ... hmm? I might be on to something there, I was asking about wood since I am concerned about spliting and wood movement.
Of course you can build with fake marble, fake stone, fake siding, fake slate, and fake everythign else and you get ... fake. Your wife probably has fake diamond ring. Just say'n to each his own.
YOU are the big snoot here.
Well anyway, why not put a couple common board nailers under the top cedar board, then you can nail wherever you need to. Use thin ring shanks, they won't pull out easy, but will flex a little as the cedar moves.
The question was ....
Do you nail each board high and low? Will that result in splits over time? For example, lap siding is often nailed low on teh face and NOT go through the board below and or behind it so as to allow the boards to move. Therefore, for fascia do you put one nail in the center of the board allowing it to expnad and contract and not split, but risk the boards cupping?
I guess everyone is glueing plastic. Wood is a lost art.
There is a reason wood isn't used much anymore you know. I wouldn't put wood fascia on my own home ieven f you paid for it. PVC is a great product and once it's painted no one will know it's not wood. It's better, it's cheaper, it's faster and will last almost forever. A good paint job will last 10 or 15 years. Look at the picture and tell me if anything looks cheap to you.
But, to answer your question directly. You can't just lap one piece of anything over another one and nail the lap. You'll need a filler under the top of the top piece to pad the bottom piece out and to provide support for the top piece's top edge. A row of nails at the top and bottom of each piece. if splitting is that big a problem you're using the wrong material. Make sure you prime both sides and cut ends of all your fascia if you're using wood. Install flashing on the sub-fascia corners and anywhere you have a joint so that when they leak the sub-fascia won't rot. I take that precaution even though all I use is PVC.
Wood rots if people are lazy or ignorant
Well, ok not exactly. But if you keep wood stained or painted it is fine. There are thousands of wood sided houses with little or no overhang in New England which are two hundreds old. Pretty good track record.
If you are lazy or ignorant of the fact that wook needs to be protected you have a problem.
I have never seen a PVC or cement board product that did not look like sht. Fake grain. I suppose if you live in a fake world and have never seen real rough sawn wood you would not know the difference. Weel, and milk comes from the store. The state of our world I suppose.
Thanks for the information.
You're absolutley correct DoRight. It IS the state of our world; and always will be. It's called PROGRESS.
I have no doubt that if American Colonials had cellular PVC technology at their disposal 200 years ago, they'd have used it on their homes then too.
Thank you for your confidence in my absolute correctness! That is big of you.
Yes sadly had teh colonialist had PVC they might have build plastic house as well and then all those colonial house would look like shitt as well.
I suspect you have never seen a classy house made with real quality materials. I feel sad for you living in a plastic crap world. But then again it is a matter of taste, good taste vs. bad taste. LOL.
I prefer fresh air and not air from a can. That is just me. You probably are used to stail musty air or air treated with aerosols. If that is all you are used to I can see your point.
You might try getting outside once in awhile, even a sidewalk wout be a start.
But thank you for your acknowledgement of my superior correctness on this issue. It really is not necessary to complement me, it is jsut that I have a life and have seen the beauty of the real world. I do recommend it.
LOL
Holy Smoke! We got two badgers in a bag!
Laughing with you.
Hey, sapwood. Glad you are laughing as well. Why everyone is so serious is beyond me. I enjoy a little sarcasm and it seem that others like to dish it out and then can't take a bit in return. It is all good if you as me.
Seriously, if you live in the north east or south where FORMAL houses are the norm. And those formal houses were in decades past and are today; typically built with planed boards and painted, then I am sure PVC is indestigishable (spelling?) from wood. But in the Pacific Northwest a classic house, not a spec house, not a house without imagination, but a classic western home is wood, stone, and timber. Of course formal-white-trimmed houses are making there way in the NW as well, they are cheaper.
Everyone dises the McMansion. Well, what is a McMansion? It is a house built sacfricing quality and character for square footage. So what is being dissed? Cheap, fake materials. I am just saying you can't dis a McManssion and then dis real wood and real stone.
Don't worry;I didn't.
I only acknowledged that you understoold that "progress" was the state of the world. I didn't complement you. You did that all by yourself. I imagine that's a persistent and necessary reaction on your part in order to boost your low self esteem. I just hope you don't dislocate your shoulder during the reach around.
...and you're absolutely wrong about why wood rots
Actually wood rots because it undergoes sustained or repetitive wetting cycles and/or is consumed by micro organisms.
Interestingly enough, it can happen without any help at all from smart humans, ignorant humans, industrious humans, or lazy humans. It's a process that has continued to take place long before the dawn of man, and will continue to take place long after we are gone.
Yes, unprotected wood.
I do not understand the hostility to beauty and in particular wood. It is odd. Paint the stuff with quality paint or stain and stand back. I see houses with T-111 siding that has been up for 40 years, looks great (for T-111). Then I have seen it fall apart. The difference? One was painted every 15 years or so the other.... not so much.
Personally, I think T-111 siding looks better that PVC or cement FAKE grained stuff. Again, some people live in an artifical world. That is fine for them, I am sure. I think this board is nearly obsolete if PVC is the norm, just 3-D print yourself a house. LOL.
Speaking of rot. See how fast an unsplit piece of birch with the bark on rots if touching the ground. You can almost watch it rot. Now dry it first and then paint it ....
With thankfulness and ...
With thankfulness and all due respect, you asked if anything in the picture looks cheap. Well, it is all very clean and crisp, but it is all fake. So if clean and crisp is your thing than great. It lacks the character including texture of real wood.
I know people like clean and crisp and cheap and that is why "it is done". Mostly for cost. Spec builders are in it for the money and they can not sell quality or character. the vast majority will not pay for it, so if a builder does something other than low cost materials he eats it. Secondly, there is no arguement that cement siding, if it does not fall apart and it does, has less maintance. But again a good stain or paint job on real wood can last 15 years.
People have come to just plain expect fake stone, fake siding, fake doors, fake trim and so they do not even think that there is anything else. It is what it is. Not for my project, however.
Thank you ever so much for your helpfulness in your reply.
One nail in the center would probably result in cupping. I would nail top and bottom, not really that high or low. Keep about 1 to 1 1/2" away from the edge to minimize the chance of splitting. Use stainless in cedar or you'll be seeing staining.
double hot dipped?
Hey, Mark. Not that I am not having fun, joking around, but thanks for staying on the topic of real cedar siding. ANd thank you for your answers.
What do you think of double hot dipped ring shank nails for cedar siding? I understand that stainless steel is the cadilac (spelling?) but twice the price of double hot dipped. If I were to use a solid stain (yes not quite as natural looking as transparant stains - oh the modern age .. then again then had paint in colonial days ) would you expect I would be ok?
Thanks.
Hot dipped are acceptable, as are aluminum, and of course SS. As long as there are no bare places on the nails, they shouldn't stain. Sometimes the galvanize can be knocked off the head when nailing. Also, this much more likely in a wet environment. I think the stain will help keep staining from nails pretty low.
Maze makes some stainless nails with colored heads which is nice because stainless nails are like little mirrors, not cheap though.
hot dipped galvanized is an approved, but sketchy, option
If the siding is exposed to the elements, even hot dipped galvanized coatings on nails will eventually fail and stain cedar. Why take that chance? Stainless steel fastners will never stain. If you're installing with quality and longevity in mind, then the only eason to not use stainless steel fastners is that you're too cheap.
That's why I said he should use SS, but galvanized is rated acceptable, except within 15 miles of a seashore. I would use SS because it's not going to cause a problem, especially 316 SS.
Plastic does not stain ...
Why are you talking about staining? It sounds like your experience is with PVC, fake stone, fake siding, fake fireplaces, .....
Odd.