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Nailing pattern for PVC Trim

GeorgeP's picture

Hi,

I am replacing my rotting front door trim with PVC.  The product I am using is called Veranda from the orange store who shall not be named.  I was going to use Azek but the cost of the Veranda was almost 1/3 of the Azek  cost.  Too good to pass up.  Any experience with Veranda?  It looks dense, uniform and has a better finish then the Azek.  

Also, what is the best nailing pattern for wide (10-1/2") pvc trim?  Should it be nailed at the edges, like wood?  I read something about nailing in the center, perhaps that was for molding?   Does PVC expand across the width as well as length?

Lastly, I'll be hand nailing and the trim is not being painted.   What is the best way to recess the nail heads?  Nail punch?  Maybe a dumb question but I want to make sure that there is no special technique to use. 

Thanks, George

George (post #215235, reply #1 of 4)

GeorgeP wrote:

Hi,

I am replacing my rotting front door trim with PVC.  The product I am using is called Veranda from the orange store who shall not be named.  I was going to use Azek but the cost of the Veranda was almost 1/3 of the Azek  cost.  Too good to pass up.  Any experience with Veranda?  It looks dense, uniform and has a better finish then the Azek.  

Also, what is the best nailing pattern for wide (10-1/2") pvc trim?  Should it be nailed at the edges, like wood?  I read something about nailing in the center, perhaps that was for molding?   Does PVC expand across the width as well as length?

Lastly, I'll be hand nailing and the trim is not being painted.   What is the best way to recess the nail heads?  Nail punch?  Maybe a dumb question but I want to make sure that there is no special technique to use. 

Thanks, George

I'd finish screw it along both edges since you plan to set them below the surface and fill.

 Also, fastenmaster I think is the brand, has a driving bit and matching small plugs.......for certain colors of Azek and maybe others.  With luck, you might find a match.  Almost makes the finish screw hole disappear.

This might be the answer as most caulk fills will discolor.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 


Didn't use your brand but I (post #215235, reply #2 of 4)

Didn't use your brand but I just installed 6" trim and I used two fastners...one at each edge.  I opted for the screws they sell with the plugs as a boxed set with the dirver bit.  Not cheap at $20 but I didn't have to worry about setting nails or filling holes.  The secrews and the bit set themselves to the correct depth and the plugs match the finish....mined was wood grained but you can also buy the smooth faced plugs.  Thats the way I would go and then you have no worries about setting filling or denting the plastic trim

Hey George,    Cortex (post #215235, reply #3 of 4)

Hey George,

   Cortex screws are what the fellas are recommending.  That is the best system for PVC trim in my opinion.  For hand-nailing, stainless steel ring shank nails would be my choice.  A siding nail has a smaller wire size and head.  Set the head flush.  Nail pattern for a wide board would be at both edges every 16".  PVC does expand every direction.. width, length, thickness..  I have seen a 20' cornerboard separate from a 10" wide frieze almost 3/4".  Also I would definitely recommend painting unless this is a doghouse or shed.  Unpainted PVC will mildew and lood dirty almost immediately and need regular power washing and cleaning which is not a good idea if this is your home.  PVC trim takes and holds paint very well and makes maintenance much less.  

Veranda web site has an (post #215235, reply #4 of 4)

Veranda web site has an Installation Guidelines document.  It will tell you what type of fasteners, placement, expansion, etc.  quick easy read.  Interesting that it's 1/3 the cost of Azek.  Visible nail heads (color matched?)...not painting?