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new lateral water line through studs

brucet9's picture

I need to run a new branch water line for a refrigerator. Existing 1/8" copper tubing takes off with a piercing clamp from a 3/4" pipe in the ceiling above a cabinet, to an in-line filter in the back of the cabinet, then runs laterally through an adjoining cabinet containing the built-in oven to the refrigerator space, then down the wall to the fridge.

HO is having new cabinets installed and does not want tubing running through the cabinets.

I am considering cutting out a short section of the 3/4" copper line in the ceiling at the point where it is pierced and installing a reducing tee over the wall top plate. From there I would run 1/2" copper through the top plate of the wall down to about 12" above the floor and then laterally through 3 or 4 stud bays to a recessed box behind the fridge.

Can I get 1/2" copper through the studs or do I need to use soft copper tubing?

The ceiling joists run perpendicular the wall. If I wanted to run the lateral through the joists, would that be easier than through the walls?



PEX. (post #184301, reply #1 of 10)


PEX (post #184301, reply #2 of 10)


If I could edit my location it would say I'm now in Reno :-)

Yeah, PEX. Much easier to (post #184301, reply #3 of 10)

Yeah, PEX. Much easier to fish.

Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

Why not run a 1/4" copper (post #184301, reply #4 of 10)

Why not run a 1/4" copper line through the bottom and back of the cabinets instead of through them?

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Do you mean I should bring (post #184301, reply #5 of 10)

Do you mean I should bring 1/4" down through the ceiling and surface mount it on the wall then let the cabinet guy notch around it?

I would prefer burying the pipes in the wall with an angle stop in a recessed box.


Actually, I would cut and add (post #184301, reply #7 of 10)

Actually, I would cut and add a T under the sink and add a new valve there for the fridge, then surface mount about 2" above the floor around the wall until you get to near the fridge, then sink it into the wall up to where you want to put the recessed box.

You would be able to cut the water off in two spots now if disaster struck.

BTW, if you decide on PEX, you can get it at Home Depot and Lowes now. Sharkbite fittings don't require a crimper... just remember to push every fitting in as far as you can go!

YAY!  I love WYSISYG editing!  And Spellcheck!


Thanks, Paul, but the sink is (post #184301, reply #10 of 10)

Thanks, Paul, but the sink is on the opposite wall from the fridge, making it a 27-foot run and likely to trip people where it passes 2" off the floor through the doorways on the adjacent walls of the kitchen. :)

the ceiling pipe is way closer and drywall cuts would all be behind cabinets, so repairs wouldn't have to be re-textured as would be the case going above the doorways.


OK, two votes now for PEX I,m (post #184301, reply #6 of 10)

OK, two votes now for PEX

I,m in Huntington Beach. Where can I get PEX around here, Ferguson?

Are there reliable PEX fittings that don't require purchasing an expensive crimper?


As others have said, (post #184301, reply #9 of 10)

As others have said, Sharkbites work. Or you can rent a crimper, which is what I'd probably do, especially if you can charge it to the job.

If you do a lot of this sort of work you might find a used crimper at a reasonable price.

Pex is your best choice for (post #184301, reply #8 of 10)

Pex is your best choice for this, and Sharkbite fittings will ease the installation, as already suggested.

To be able to shut off the supply, there are boxes for ice-maker lines, similar to the boxes for washing machine supply valves. You mount it low behind the fridge, and it has its own shutoff valve. I think the Sioux Chief makes them, as well as others.