Thought I would mention that I mixed up my first batch of D-mix yesterday (as described on breaktime). Skimmed walls and ceiling in two rooms where I was matching new drywall with old. Amazing stuff!! I used 3 gallons joint compound to 1 gallon PVA primer to 1 cup plaster of paris, put it on with a 3/4″ nap roller, and flattened it out with a 14″ knife. Paintable, Level 5 finish the first time out.
Many thanks to everybody who posted about this stuff in the past. It’s definitely going to save — and make — me some money.
Replies
Mighty Buddha,
Thanks for sharing. I really want to try this stuff out.
Did you happen to take any pics? If so would you mind posting some, I guess it might be hard to glean any info from the pics,but you never know.
How long did you have to work with it before it started to setup?
-Chad
The remnants in the bucket I mixed at around 2:00 pm yesterday were technically still workable at 9:00 this morning. It sets quite fast on the walls, but stays workable in the bucket.I'm afraid photos wouldn't show much, except maybe some SMOOTH walls.I may go ahead and write up some instructional stuff on the subject.
Steel, Details, Details Please!?
I've got a firetapped garage to do and I'm going to try this method out, just for the fun of it.
What kind of drywall compound? Dry or mixed? What type of PVA? What is pva?
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Somewhere some how I missed all the D-mix discussion. Almost all of our work is now being spec'ed level 5, any proven level 5 help, tricks, improved job results are of great interest. I know you don't have time to educate the 1st graders, but could you point me to the forum discussions. Thanks in advance.
This is an edit. Nevermind on links, I advanced searched and found it.
Never serious, but always right.
Edited 2/23/2005 9:59 am ET by Russ
Tim, does the back rolling give it a texture. I'm confused, it sounds like a different finish. He was using a 14" blade, you're using a roller.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
And I thought the D-Mix (Dino-Mix) it was a dream.
We're starting cllasses on The D-Mix and MANY other EZ-Smart tricks of the trade the first weekend of APRIL. (and every first weekend after that.)
I post about that yesterday in another thread.
I'm happy that the D-Mix work for you the very first time. Now you need to learn few more tricks and be D-Mix and EZ-Smart expert.
YCF Dino
Tim.
The D-mix is a whole new animal. Don't get the D-Mix-Mix with other mix or technique. You can say that is an EZier to apply veneer plaster.
And about textured finish. Nothing comes close to D-Mix in Interesting finishes.
The right amount of (plaster of paris) is a critical part of the mix. Without it the D-Mix becomes another mix.
It makes the joint compound (semi-setting???) compound.
Tim. The Teflon was invented by accident.
The D-mix by need.
We asked you about the properties that plaster paris had in relationship with the mud and vinyl primer and you never responded . What is its purpose in the mix?
To make your job EZ. Allows you to rework the materials without any problems associated with other plasters or joint compounds. To take one part out from 3-4 and try to analyze its purpose to the other parts is not EZ for me to explain.
I don't think I know enough English to analyze the relation or the parts :(
But in plain English.....
...Without the p.o.p the mix is not working.
Tim ...
where's the love?
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Third week of February means it's still winter.
Still snow.
Still cold.
Free Sancho!!!
right thru April and into May..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
April and May?
Oh you poor soul.
be time to drive to Cal
Free Sancho!!!
I thrive on it...
how ever it has been way too bitter cold and I haven't reacclimated to the high altitude.... so down from the mountains fer a bit...
had to take up a couch in the lower altitudes...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
rez, I mean razz, er ah razzman
you been having some kind of identity crisis lately?
ya, can't figure out if I'm Kukla, Fran or Ollie.
Free Sancho!!!
Ok, Ok, enough with the teases about the "D-mix"... I've read every past thread I can find and I'm trying to piece it all together for a new remodel in my upstairs (and some remodels for clients as well.) I just threw up a panel of drywall and tried to give it a go using the general recipe I've read about and the roller/big knife method.
First problem...my recently purchased "professional quality 3/4 in. lambswool/polyester roller shed little fibers all over as I rolled on the mix (which I discovered when I tried to trowel the surface smooth.) Will a 100% lambswool roller not do this?
Second... have you (and I've just not found it yet) or will you go through the whole process from the start? I'm interested in doing a whole wall covering as an alternative to veneer plaster. Should I tape and first coat all seams like I usually would with durabond before rolling?
Throw me a bone man...
Will a 100% lambswool roller not do this?
95% of 3/4" lambswool roller should give you no problem. And the selection of the roller is critical. The wool must be heavy and dense. Get two rollers in case the one bail out on you.
Second... have you (and I've just not found it yet) or will you go through the whole process from the start?
The whole process will be videotape in few weeks. I can go over one thousand times but without the video people will discover one thousand problems. You just find the first one.
First problem...my recently purchased "professional quality 3/4 in. lambswool/polyester roller shed little fibers all over as I rolled on the mix (which I discovered when I tried to trowel the surface smooth.)
I'm interested in doing a whole wall covering as an alternative to veneer plaster. Should I tape and first coat all seams like I usually would with durabond before rolling?
Why have two types of materials there? Use fiberglass tape and use the D-Mix for first coat. By the time you tape the wall (take a ten minutes brake and start with the roller) If you have more than one wall you don't have to delay the second and final coat.
Now. Don't go to find some paper tape with fibers. Get the genuine fiberglass tape with holes. :)
After coat 1 set up, I thought I'd try a different application method since my roller was giving me issues...so I spread a thin layer over my practice sheet with an 8" knife and then troweled it smooth with a 14" trowel. A couple small bits of plaster of paris that hadn't fully dissolved gave me some issues, but after digging those out and re-troweling, I must say it looked pretty good.
It is now the next day and my one complaint is that the surface, while smooth, is very soft. I can scratch it easily with my fingernail. I used Lightweight joint compound (plus 3) because that's what I had handy.
In earlier threads I had read what seemed to be 2 competing ideas. One said to use the plus 3 because it is easier to install and smooth, one said a standard joint compound would possibly be better because it has a higher binder content and thus would create a harder surface.
Any thoughts? Surface hardness does matter to me, as when I'm walking through the house carrying tools, hammer swinging from my belt, I always seem to be dinging, scraping walls. (clutz) Does this "D-mix" surface need a few days (more?) to reach maximum hardness, similiar to a urethane floor covering?
How much more difficult would it be to teach myself to 2-coat veneer plaster? I'm patient and have a good touch with a trowel.
Joe, I asked for specific...details...and I'm still waiting. I'm beginning to think this entire mixture is just a bunch of hooey designed to provoke arguments.
Tim was kind enough to offer up something else, but if I was trying to cook up a batch of cookies...I'd be starving right now. Now I've got to wait for a video...something I'll never watch...
This can't be that difficult to explain is it?
How much of what? Please don't waffle. Just state the exact products and the amounts...or just ignore me. I'll cover and finish the old fashioned way...if I ever do it.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
i haven't used the D-mix.. but from past experience i'd say the following..
i'd never use the easy sand ( light joint compound )...
and for application, why not put it on like a plasterer would ?
you know . dump it on a mix board...put it on your hawk, and trowel it on like you woulda skim-coat plaster
i think i would go with the original recipe :
plaster of paris
regular joint compound &
PVA primer
since i've never used it , i don't know if it's too wet to use on a hawk for trowel application
here's Dino's recipe:
<<<
A. The best joint compound to use with the D-mx is the premix stuff. (5 gallon buckets) the green or the plus 3.(the plus-3 is even better)
B. Cheap PVA latex primer. (Regular wall primer.)
C. Plaster of Paris. (Regular powder.)
Like I said, all new to me, but willing to learn if you have the patience.
Me? Is you who need to have the patience.
Start with a small mix. (10) part joint compound-(2-3) primer and (1) plaster of paris.
First you mix good the joint compound with the primer and when you ready you mix the plaster of paris with the rest.
You can make small repairs or you can do an entire wall 8x20 with one mix.
After few buckets - bags and can's and one day in your basement you will be able to make the right mix for the right job. >>>>>>
the only question i have ( besides the hawk )
is... Plaster of Paris can i substitute Imperial ?.. or Diamond ?.. i can get either of those pretty easy... Plaster of Paris is a little more difficult...
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 2/25/2005 11:07 am ET by Mike Smith
Mike,
A plaster sub i worked around used something similar to this for patching up all the holes i cut into a wall for running wire.
I do not know the preportions but i do know the ingrediants.
Green top mud
structolight.
No pva primer, thats probably why his mix was thicker, it seemed to work the trick for his wall finish and the patch(es) were good enough as not to telegraph thru the wallpaper finish that was put on afterwards.
just thought i woud throw that into the mix.
Re paper fuzzing from sanding DW, If you prime with something you can sand out the paper lifts... We do it all the time with Tuff Hide. Spray the wall, sand out the whole wall with the portercable DW sander ( = fast ), paint to suit..... the walls are dead flat/ smooth.... as in you can not touch up with a roller or it will show in inderect light.( well maybe if you use a foam roller and very thin paint)
james
I do not know the preportions but i do know the ingrediants.
Green top mud
structolight.
See Mike....is there any wonder that I'm confused?!!!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
The box stores (e.g. HD) should carry Plaster of Paris, I buy it regularly..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
"Start with a small mix. (10) part joint compound-(2-3) primer and (1) plaster of paris."help my simple mindjoint compound come in gallonsprimer comes in gallonsplaster of paris I think comes by the pound, dry in a box/bag/so to my simple mind a small mix would be 10 cups of joint compoud2-3 cups of primerand a cup of plaster of paris?
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
The EZ way to mix.
1/2 bucket of 5/gallon joint compound. (2/1-2 gallons)
1/2 gallon of primer.(You can go more or less depends the application)
for veneer you go with more primer,for repairs with less and more plaster of paris.
3/4 to 4/4 small cup of "Dunking Donuts' coffee. (drink the coffee first)
This is the basic D-Mix. You use it few times and it will tell you the rest.
If the mix dries to fast you use less plaster of paris. If the mix dries to slow you use more plaster of paris.
If you do stucco and textured finish you use less primer. (thick mix)
Can you use the taping knifes good? You don't have to use a roller. (thicker mix) can you use the roller good? make it thinner.
There is not one way to apply and use the D-Mix. But the only way to find out what is good for you is to do it. Like Steelbudda.
so to my simple mind a small mix would be
For a small mix use the right amount of JC and the right amount of primer in order to have a workable mix. then spread a small amount of plaster of paris according to the above proportions.
proportions. Is that right?
thanksi tend to be too exact, and when things look mixed i get confused easily
bobl Volo, non valeo
Baloney detecter
I've used the jc and plaster mix for 25 or so years now and don't plan to quit now. Lime putty is the traditional aggregate and nothing finishes like it, but jc is better for sticking to things. I don't roll it but rather trowel it on with large plasterer's trowel. I'll try the primer in it, but I know I'll go back to my mix.
I've used the jc and plaster mix for 25 or so years now and don't plan to quit now. Lime putty is the traditional aggregate and nothing finishes like it, but jc is better for sticking to things. I don't roll it but rather trowel it on with large plasterer's trowel. I'll try the primer in it, but I know I'll go back to my mix.
My Friend Jer. The problem with us (construction guys) is that we just can't... let it go. We learn something and we guard it and defend it like is ours.
I use to have 5-6 guys watching me working...for them. Got it? I was the only one who can do it right and fast and... whatever. That stupid me.
The idea is to find a way so you can have your guys working for you and... for them. The problem with your technique and your mix is that you the only one who can co it.. right. Got it? You're limiting your self into a good days pay and your large plasterer's trowels.
Please, don't take me wrong. The idea of the D-Mix is more than just another mix and more than my way is better than yours.
To be continue, my friend.
Yeah yeah I get it, and hey, I'll try it. Is this stuff supposed to be a one shot deal like in real plastering? In other words is there sanding and recoating involved? Roll it, trowel it, and you're done? Bing bang boom. No theory classes of Plato on Plastering or Socrates on Skimming please, my mix is hardening.
It's definitely going to save -- and make -- me some money.
This is from steelbudda. He saw something on the D-mix.
Now. For a drywaller a carpenter a painter a remodeler, the D-Mix can be the way to have the edge on competition and to bring in more jobs.
I remember when i start painting for my brother that most of his jobs have plaster repairs and restoration. I ask him one day: can you get a job without all the plaster repairs and just painting? I use to hate spending a whole day to just fix the walls and few hours to paint.
You know what his answer was?
Yes. I can get "just painting jobs" but so... a thousand others.
Few years later I was -the plaster guy-. who can paint too. And not the painter who can fix the wholes. The difference? $6.00-$7.00 per square feet. And for many years the insurance adjusters and fire restoration contractors was very happy to finance my "crazy" ideas.
They just want it DONE. And don't talk to me about "some" LZ Greeks who have nothing to do but..talk. One thing about me. I hate talkers. And Tim is my kind of guy.
To be continue?
Yes. I can get "just painting jobs" but so... a thousand others.
That's a good piece of wisdom there YC!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Continue? Absolutely, this stuff is pure. Let me make some popcorn.
Me making popcorn Jer?
Why me? I can teach 2-3 guys to do it for me while I enjoy the popcorn and the movie. In the other hand, can you find someone and trust him with your trowels so you can go to the chiropractor for your back and neck?
And don't tell me that your body can keep up with your trowels for a long time.
I have you talk to Doctor Mandell. My friend Chiropractor in Metuchen NJ. He fix you up good. Call me when you need his number. I know it by heart.
First weekend of April Jer? sat. at 11.00 am.
See you.
YPF Dino
First weekend in April I would love to but I'll be in dress rehearsal. You're only an hour away.
Where is Blue?
Jer. don't stop now. Keep going.
I'm almost done. Tell you later.
Yer a crazy guy YC!
I like your philosophy. You understand the need to specialize. But...if you make the solutions so easy, you lose your edge.
I think that is called a conundrum.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I thought about that Blue. And the D-mix is only one of many "D- trade secrets" that can only do good to the trade.
How many homeowners do you think they will try it? And if some do, God bless them. Here we have professionals that they will never even try to learn it.
And I'm not talking about specializing. What i'm trying to say is that you can use the D-Mix to gain access to other jobs. How they say it? Put your foot in the door? you can't do only one trade and expect to make money while competing with with others like you. The D-Mix give me the edge for many years. And few times that we have to do genuine plaster and veneer plaster, i hire the specialists (when the job was to big.)
Guess who made the money.
conundrum.?
I imagine there are many pros who will not even try the mix because they have too many "D-Trade Secrets" of their own, and they may not even know that they are in the "D" class, nor that they are even secrets. I think it's all well and good to share on paper (see how old I am) these things but you can't put the skills into another persons hands. What I assume to be common knowlege may indeed be a "D" secret to some. Perhaps the "D" should remain somewhat elusive and hinted at, sometimes revealed, only to morph itself into something else and go back into it's semi-hiding place. I have worked with a few false "D" prophets who claimed that they knew all that could be known, but what they didn't know is that I knew the rest.
"D-Trade Secrets"
Thanks Jer. But I stop thinking for today. No more energy.
My crazy mind works like this. When it gets confronted it goes back to solve other problems. Today it was a very good day. That's why I told you, keep going.
About the D-Mix. forget about it. Until you come over to Edison.
Yesterday, I cut 36 pieces from 2 x s on the miter saw for a friend. we need to build 3 special tables. Today I build a prototype cutting table to try another crazy idea. And I double check (on this cutting table) the pieces that I cut yesterday. All Wrong. You know why? Because yesterday I thought I was the best.
But thanks to you, I'm the best today. And you know why? Because today i Let go what I knew until yesterday about cutting wood to length on a miter saw,
See you.
Post #150!
Dino,
Maybe you should be trying the J-mix?
Or the M-mix?
The Special K-mix!
(Stay away from the Ouzo-mix though!)
6 16 17 97 99
Mike. Read my post before. Let them go. I got few more problems that i was LZ to solve over a 1/4 of a century.
Or even better. Check out the original post by steel budda.
But please, let them go to 1000 posts.
Thanks guys.
54559.1
Thought I would mention that I mixed up my first batch of D-mix yesterday (as described on breaktime). Skimmed walls and ceiling in two rooms where I was matching new drywall with old. Amazing stuff!! I used 3 gallons joint compound to 1 gallon PVA primer to 1 cup plaster of paris, put it on with a 3/4" nap roller, and flattened it out with a 14" knife. Paintable, Level 5 finish the first time out.
Many thanks to everybody who posted about this stuff in the past. It's definitely going to save -- and make -- me some money.
Hi Mr. YCFriend! I've been lurking and reading a lot of comments about your one coat drywall system. Aside from the banter about cup sizes, etc. I think most fellas are interested in trying something if it will increase profitability and cut the time in takes to do a job.
I tried it today for the first on a small area. My wife gave me a hand (she's very interested in construction - we renovate houses together) with the rolling while I smoothed things with a 12" drywall blade. I have read somewhere that you might be creating a video? or showing your technique to anyone that's interested, but I'm way up here in Ontario, Canada, so getting down to see you is out of the question. If you don't mind, I have a few questions for you...
We used regular joint compound, original POP & Behr PVA latex primer. We tried a ratio of 3:1:1 as you suggested in one of your posts. A few observations...
1.The mix seemed to be very thick - I could have trowelled it on the wall and rolled it easier than trying to "load up" the roller. Should it have been thinned down?
2. What is the difference between PVA primer and regular primer? Could I use a cheaper non-PVA primer?
3. We cannot find genuine lambswool rollers in our area and resorted to using a synthetic lambswool by Shur-line. It worked fine and didn't leave any "fuzzies" in the mixture on the wall. However, it was available in semi-smooth and rough-surface pile. Should we use the thicker one or the thinner one?
4. I like to use paper-faced metal bead and trim http://www.usg.com/Product_Index/metalbeadandtrim.asp I first set the bead using either Durabond or slightly thinned joint compound. Of course, this has to dry. Then another trip is required to begin top-coating. Will the D-Mix allow me to roll corners (inside & outside) using a 3" roller, then press the bead into the mix, roll again on the outer edge with the 3" roller, follow with the 10" roller and skim the wall as usual? Will the bead adhere properly? Will the mixture "shrink back" and leave a depression at the joint?
5. When filling joints and butt joints, I use fibre mesh tape (as you recommend) but I'm having trouble filling the joint on the first pass. I have found that applying the D-mix with a taping knife, then rolling it, then smoothing with the large knife works pretty well, but there is still a depression at the joint. What am I doing incorrectly or am I expecting too much from a single application?Finally, I'm very happy with the overall look and think this could be great time saver. However, clean-up is quite involved as you're working with primer and a fairly thick D-mix compound. I think that mixing in a tall, narrow pail would ensure a smoother mix.
Thanks again for taking the time to post this method - it's very generous of you to share this with others. I am looking forward to reading/seeing more about the perfect mixture ratio and seeing a video showing it applied.
Thanks again,
KevinThey don’t build ‘em like they used to. And as my Dad would say, “Thank God!”
Kevin, it's obvious why everything didn't turn out perfectly your first time. Next time get the dunkin donuts cup of coffee, not the McDonalds!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I am looking forward to reading/seeing more about the perfect mixture ratio and seeing a video showing it applied.
Hi Kevin. The only way is the video and I'm working on it.
Sorry for the delay, but I'm tooooBez. Your ratio was all wrong and the Blue shark is attacking already. Let it go until we have a video and thanks for your ...thanks.
YCF Dino
Dont listen to him Kevin. Just get the right coffee and everything will be fine.
YOu don't need no stinkin' video!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Got some green topped premix, some PVA latex primer and a box of original plaster of paris.
I think I'm going to go out and discover sliced bread.
be breaded
Hey Dino
Talked to Northwood tools today. Colin? Anyways, he tells me they are having a rush on your saw guide following a tool review here. Better get geared up to send him a few more mate. Oh yes. Thanks for the offer of the video on the D mix. Trouble is I think we are on PAL here and it will probably be recorded in NTSC?
regards
Markhttp://www.quittintime.com
Hey Mark.
Yes. Colin is the right guy to talk. We have good sales in UK and AU.
We may have to open a factory in EU in order to have good sales here too.;)???
I will make some videos on Pal. Do they have D. Donuts in AU?
See you Mark.
Thanks.
Dino,
Are you doing a D-Mix demo today (4/2/05)?
-Don
Yes. If someone shows up.
Dino:I used D-mix on another job recently, with great results. This time it was on plaster walls that had failed due to water leaks. It was pretty much two steps; repair the damage, then D-mix the whole thing. Ready to paint.Very profitable job, I might add.
Very profitable job, I might add.
You got that right my friend. I use to get up to $9.00 a sq.feet to "restore" plaster. But I did it for nothing some times, just to save time.
Welcome to the EZone. And let the blue sharks sign the donuts.
Now, you can go after the big bucks.
I'm proud of you steelbudda. And I'm sure your family is too.
See you. and thanks for the following up. Good ideas don't mean nothing if they don't become reality and don't help others.
And you did it. (Or done it?)
YCF Dino
Edited 4/2/2005 10:20 am ET by YCFriend
YCFriend,
I've been looking for a way to repair some plaster walls in my home. It's a 1920 bungalow that looks like it never had a finish coat of plaster, but instead the brown coat was painted, so it has a sanded plaster finish. My question is this....Have you ever added sand to the D-Mix so that it looks like sanded plaster?
Our walls have been giving me a fit because they've had years of sloppy repairs and I know if I want to get them uniform looking, they'll need to be skim coated. But, I don't want a smooth skim coat. I want a coat that looks like the original, and the D-Mix might just be the trick.
BTW, paint w/ a sand additive doesn't really do a very good job of replicating the sanded plaster texture.
Anyone else try sand in the D-Mix?
Thanks!
Behr has a paint that feels like sand available at home depot , the first time I saw it recently at a customer that's what I thought was in the paint.
Dude,
Thanks for the heads up. I actually have a gallon of the Lowe's brand, and I know BM sells it as well. It looks kind of funky when it goes on w/ a brush (streaky and inconsistent texture) though, and I have yet to try it w/ a roller. Regardless of application method, it's expensive stuff ($20/ gal) and it doesn't provide much coverage. I'm going to try it soon w/ a roller to see what it does.
The other problem is that it just doesn't look like sanded plaster when you're done. It looks like sanded paint. Maybe after it's painted it will look better. I'll keep trying.
Again, thanks for the tip.
"it's expensive stuff ($20/ gal)"LOL!! That's not expensive! It's almost cheap.It's gotta be over $35 a gallon to be expensive!Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Rich,
Yeah, I guess that was out of context! There's very little coverage. $20 for paint is cheap when it covers several hundred square feet or so. $20 for less than 100 SF seems a little more expensive to me, especially when it doesn't work that well. Like I said, I'll keep trying. However, the D-Mix is very intriguing. I remember my father skim coating repairs w/ drywall mud mixed with some gypsum plaster. I'll have to ask him what the proportions were.
"$20 for less than 100 SF seems a little more expensive to me"Aha! That is equivalent to $80 a gallon!!! Very expensive paint indeed!!!Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Hi Tiberia.
Just try it. Nothing to lose.
Good luck.
awhile back
I said I was going to try the D-mix on a space that will be covered by cabinets in the kitchen and as soon as I did that it was real evident how easy it was so I went right out into another room.
The Home Owners were in shock and awe. The husband got so excited when I told him the EZ way....When I came back the next morning, he had started into the rest of the house. He finished the whole house days later. He's a believer.
This guy is pretty much a desk jockey. So imagine my suprise and everyone elses when some regular joe can do this. WOW.
Now that the walls are painted the results are pretty amazing. Im looking foward to the next job. Only hoping the HO doesnt jump in like this guy.
I can charge $9.00/SF huh?
Buddha: I need another bass for my choir - is that your range?What do you smooth the mix out with? I've used a rubber thingy I bought at Sherwin Williams & a 12" taping knife. I'm getting better, but believe that the answer may be using a plasterer's finishing trowel. Seems I could control the angle between the wall & the trowel flat better than I can on the knife.Am about to go drink up some courage to attack the other side wall in my stairwell. Stopped by Home DePot lasterday & plunked down the sheckels for a decent grade trowel. They'll take it back if I don't like it & clean it up well.Thanks.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Don-I do, indeed, sing bass.I have not tried using a "rubber thingy," but my initial take on it presents a rather humorous mental picture. For big surfaces, I use a 14" spring steel drywall knife. Tighter spots, smaller knives. For me, less pressure makes a smoother finish. Letting the mix firm up a little might make things easier.Finishing problems may result from attempting the process while drinking and using a rubber thingy.-SB
Edited 4/16/2005 6:36 am ET by SteelBuddha
SB: Quick; get into your robe, we are about to sing. Sha Na Na fell out & we neeed someone to play Bowser.Thanks for the poop on tools. The rubber thingy is like a 18" window cleaning squeegee. I'm afraid its edge is already worn. By the end of the wall it was leaving very narrow (half millimeter) furrows in the mud. But at least it is flat & even. A PC sander will make quick work of it. I'll wait a bit longer before trying to finish the next wall, but I'm still going to try the real trowel. I've had some pretty decent luck finishing concrete, though you have a lot longer period to muck around w/ concrete than you do w/ D-Mix.My wife has become a cheerleader on this. She admitted that the wall looks a lot better than it did. While doing the stairwell, her job is to sit on the end of the scaffold plank when I work out beyond the top of the step ladder it sets on. I'm very nice to her - I don't want her suddenly standing up and me taking a plunge down the stairs as the scaffold playe teeter totter!DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!
Blue.
Joe, I asked for specific...details...and I'm still waiting.
How many times? And to be more specific with the whole method we need a video.
Mike. Using trowels defeats the EZ way. But it can be done.But if you're good plasterer, then use veneer plaster.
Using other plasters instead of plaster of paris (diamond-Imperial- or durabond) is not recommended.
Blue. Just do it.
Using other plasters instead of plaster of paris (diamond-Imperial- or durabond) is not recommended.
Blue. Just do it.
Great YC. I'm going to pull out my Nike deorderant, mix it up and paste it with some rollers. Am I missing any ingredients? Should I toss in a shoe or two?
Do what? With what?
Now I'm gotten more advice about what not to use and Mike even chirped in an opion....
This is the goofiest thing I've tried to get answers to.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
WTF ?..
i posted the entire recipe for you !.. didn't you read it ?
and i'll give you a chirp
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
the only question i have ( besides the hawk )
is... Plaster of Paris can i substitute Imperial ?.. or Diamond ?.. i can get either of those pretty easy... Plaster of Paris is a little more difficult...
Mike, I buzzed through your post, which was laden with choices. Then, at the end, I see a question mark and more questions, which just leaves me as confused as I was in the first post when I asked for specifics.
So, basically, I'm still hanging.
I'm not that sharp about mud and mud products. I have no basis for understanding what lite, plus 3, regular, plaster of paris, pva, etc means. I can tell you alot about framing lumber and if you asked for a lumber take off for your doghouse, I could give you a list that you could lay down in front of the lady at the counter and have her write up the order. If I layed down your list for this D-Mix, she'd have a lot of questions and I'd just turn around and walk out. IF I layed down the lists and discussions that JC and Tim and everyone else is arguing about, I'd be thrown out...
I'm just confused.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
ok.. lemme see iffen i can 'splain this to a simple tool like you ...
go to Sherwin Williams...
get a bag / box of plaster of Paris
get a 5 gal. pail of USG joint compound
get 2 gallons of a PVA primer.. you don't have to know what it is .. the guy will sell it to you
... get some rollers.. see the other posts for what kind of rollers
make up a mix..
put it on with a roller, trowel it smooth..
do this in a closet... when your wife says it looks good, you can come outta the closet and start on the room
or ... wait for Dino's video.. now shuddup and let's talk about marketing ..
do i still owe you, or are we even for showing me how to write my name in color ?
KermitMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike...I just got back from the builder supply . The only bag of plaster of paris I found was a 500 pound box .
Luckily, I found the 5 gals of joint compound. Does the words 15minutes mean anything?
I'm sorry, I just think this thread is a hoot. I am interested in attempting to roll my garage wall when the weather breaks (i'll be happy with anything above 50), but I just don't know if this is the right mix.
Maybe I'll gather the products that I think I'll use, them come back in here when I intend to do it and ask for the exact proportions. I'm probably not going to mix up the 10 gallons all at once, just to test it on one small area.
Thanks for trying.
By the way, I don't remember giving you the instructions for coloring your name.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
You've read his "tavern" postings, did you expect something different ?.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
phill... of course i expected something different.. i like blue..
hell, i even like you
but i wouldn't go to a box store, when i could go someplace helpful like a Ben Moore, or a Sherwin-Williams..
i get stroked in those places.. i don't get stroked in HD
stroking is important to insecure people like me
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Plaster of Paris is gypsum, same thing that drywall is made out of, but with a much lower moisture content.
You can get a 5# box at any paint store, or you can get a 50# bag of guage for about the same price.
I've been using mud and guage for 25 yrs., but I have no idea what the PVA is for.
6 16 17 97 99
PVA...im' guessing poly vinyl. I don't know what the A is for.
It probably makes the mixture more pliable?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
99lue... 'mem9er when A9 was still posting ?
and we had the old board ? you couldn't click on a color or font , you had to code it..
i asked you how you always got your name to come out in blue
you told me the href code and i started posting as Kermit
sometimes Pogo.. anyways.. ( sniff, sniff ) (excuse me.... having a little nostalgic moment here ).... anyways, i never forgot your kindness....
also , you and pete were the first ones to talk to me on this board..
i think i was "desin'" and "dosin" wit some RhodeIslandese..
youse guys said it sounded more like Cincinatti (?) ... again.. ( sniff, sniff )... who coud forget a kindness like dat
where the he*l's fusco when you need him ?
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, I do remember telling a few people how to do the href code thing....I don't know where I learned it...probably from Fusco.
I didnt' realize that you were a fresh face back then. For some reason, I thought you were around a lot longer than me. I'm just glad that I made a good first impression because I'm sure you would have dumped me long ago...
I'm glad someone likes me in here...
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
I like you too Blue.
like doesn't begin to describe it.. who could forget "boogerin with blue"
and some of your "who's on first " with your sidekick , gabe....wellllllll , i mean
classic !
kinda recolllect similar ways of passing the time with andrewd... and the olde cow tipper.. patrick...Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike, I must admit, I have had a good time bsing my life away in here. That's one reason I dreaded coming back in...I know I'd get hooked...and it doesn't seem like I'm getting outa here anytime soon...although I know I should.
mea culpa.
I do miss my good friend Gabe. We had just patched things up and became close and now I never hear from him anymore. It's a shame.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
jesus U kids need my help here ...
Mike ... level 5 finish ... google it ... basically a drywall/joint compound replication of a plaster finish ... ie ... skim coat the whole damn sheet(after taping the joints) and skim it flat.
So both Tim and Dino are right.
Tim ... I'm thinking the plaster O ole Parie sets harder ... ie .. more like mike's plaster skim over blue board.
which brings me to Blue ... who U trying to kid? asking about drywall finishes ... why next ... you'll be giving advice on laying tile! Oh .. that's right ... yer doing that already. Hey Blue .. stop that!
who's next ... Dino .... I think I missed your call last week.
screwed up week ... either try the cell again .. or I'll email U.
people ... please ... we're talking about freaking drywall here ...
no need for any excitment!
U want a good drywall fight ... ask a real drywall hanger about carps trying to pretend they know how to hand the stuff ... appearantly there's a right and a wrong way? Especially on steel studs ... something about screwing one side of the butt joint first ... I dunno ... my ears glazed over ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
he's in denial Mike...next he'll be denying any recollections of a certain backhoe and phone line incidenthttp://www.quittintime.com
no doubt.. hey.. i got a shirt for you... give it to you at Calvin's
we've had about two more feet of snow since you lefdtMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
PVA stands for polyvinyl acetate.Sorry I started this thread...
why.?.
great thread...
ya gotta realize , this concept is foreign to jim, he's a shell guy... the interior stuff is the other side of the moon to him..
but we can bring him along.. pretty soon he'll be whistling a tune as he trowels his garage wall smooooothhhhMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
This D-mix business kinda feels like a 'snipe hunt'.
I'm hoping someone can finally pin it down or bag it up?
free sancho!What the HECK was I thinking?
This D-mix business kinda feels like a 'snipe hunt'.
I'm hoping someone can finally pin it down or bag it up
That pretty much sums up my feelings on this topic, Heck! I'm laughing out loud and my wife thinks I'm nuts because of your post!
I think ol AdirondackJack would call this "herding cats".
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
plastering is an art.the trick is to not bite off more than you can chew. start with small walls and get bigger.most people tend to start trowelling the plaster up too early and that end up giving a bubbly finish.In my bedroom i spent ages on it and even trowelled the walls the next day to get them like glass. this was a waste of time because as soon as you paint them you get texture from the paint!!!oh and it's really hard work.if i spend a day plastering my shoulders know about it!!!!unless is a small bit I get my plasterer to come in.
tim, you olde rattlesnake..
i was in my favortie paint store two weeks ago.. asked the head salesman if they had any of the high build primers.. the kind people been talking about here.. it's a Ben Moore dealer..
no.. didn't have any..
then i axed him about the nomenclature for wall finishes.. you know ... Level 0 thru Level 5 ?..... never heard of it
anyways i downloaded the info from the National Gypsum site.. Level 5 requires a skim coat applied to the entire surface... or "material manufactured especially for this purpose, is applied to the entire surface"..
i'm thinking .. why bother with all this BS, why don't they just spec a skim-coat plaster ?..
but apparently, this D-mix... or something similar , that you've been using , is easier than skim-coat
i'll tell you, i've done some taping ...i've paid my guys to do taping.. if all goes well, you might get by with a two-coat.. but it's probably going to be a three-coat..
i do not believe my plasterers spend any more time than a good tapingcrew...and the results are so much better
we just taped a thousand SF for a basement darkroom and a partition wall..
i bet i could have plastered the damn thing in the same amount of time.. and i suck at plastering..
we do first coat Durabond 90, 2d & third coat joint compound.. we get a nice finish.. it looks like Level 5, but it is NOT skimcoat the entire surface
here's my point... i think Dino has a good homemade brew, he's got a language problem getting it across the cyberspace. but he's trying
now.. my question to you.. if you are trying to get a Level 5 finish.. how do you do it ? and what recipe do you use ?
Hooray! Finally a nice sunny day here in Minnesota and I got to spend it outside hangin' some cedar shingles and trimming out some windows. Back to the "it sucks but sometimes it has to be done inside stuff..."
I just checked on last nights little "d-mix" experiment...still pretty soft... I can ding it fairly easily using the plastic measuring cup I used for the plaster of paris. But I have to admitt, even with my roller issues and having to put on a second coat with a taping knife, it sure makes a nice smooth finish...easily passable level 5.
Blue, since you seem to be having a hard time getting some exact directions, here's what I did for what it's worth (admittedly not much)...
6 parts lightweight joint compound (might be the problem with softness) with 1 part PVA primer. Mixed it in a bucket with a paddle mixer. After about a minute of mixing, I sprinkled in 1/4 cup of plaster of paris. (I should have sifted out the lumps first because they did not seem to dissolve well.) Mixed this for about 2-3 minutes. I put the first coat on with a roller (issues mentioned above) and so put on a second coat with a 8" taping knife. This was kind of sloppy because the mix was made to be rolled on. Anyway, I troweled it with a 14" trowel, and then let it sit for about 20 minutes. Then I lightly misted it with some water and troweled it again. Maybe that's why the surface seems soft, but it made it really smooth.
I'm just winging it to try and see what seems right...but I'm with you... although a video would be nifty, it shouldn't be that hard to outline the process without it. A little less hype and a little more substance please!
Blue, since you seem to be having a hard time getting some exact directions, here's what I did for what it's worth (admittedly not much)...
Now I'm laffing harder. I don't know why this thread tickles me so much, but everyone that posts in here adds some sort of disclaimer...except YC. That would be okay, but YC dances around so much that I never have a clue about anything when I'm done reading him either.
I seriously haven't laffed so much about a stupid thread in a long time.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
"6 parts lightweight joint compound (might be the problem with softness) with 1 part PVA primer. Mixed it in a bucket with a paddle mixer. After about a minute of mixing, I sprinkled in 1/4 cup of plaster of paris."Joe,This is not helpful without knowing how many "parts" 1/4 cup equals.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Sorry Rich, that was kind of stupid of me. It was 96 oz. (volume not weight) of JC and 16 oz. of primer with the afore mentioned 1/4 cup of POP. Kind of goofy volumes I know, but all I could find for measuring out the JC to make a small batch was one of my wife's mixing bowels. (Kind of ticks her off, I really should stop doing that.)
For reference sake, the volume I mixed was more that enough for 2 coats on a 4 x 8 sheet of drywall. I probably had 1/4 if it left.
Tonight I'm going to try another small batch with regular joint compound and see how that works...maybe the surface will be a little harder than it was with the lightweight.
If this thread keeps going, I'll let you know how it turns out...
p.s. Hey dino, thanks for being patient with all the skepticism on here...it's hard not to be a cynic these days. You say that you like to use the plus 3 'cause it 's easier to smooth out. Do you have any problems with the surface scratching easily? Playing with my test sheet here it seems easier to scratch than regular drywall. Maybe that's just the price you pay for it being Smooooth and EZ.
"Sorry Rich, that was kind of stupid of me. It was 96 oz. (volume not weight) of JC and 16 oz. of primer with the afore mentioned 1/4 cup of POP. Kind of goofy volumes I know, but all I could find for measuring out the JC to make a small batch was one of my wife's mixing bowels. (Kind of ticks her off, I really should stop doing that.) "
My wife would get pretty ticked if I used one of her bowls, but really pizzed if I used one of her bowels. :-)
snort
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
Just could not resist, figured this thread need some levity.
How's the D-mix method? Got it down?
Can I audit your course?
Im in minnesota too
Dream bigger than before and use sharp blades.
be rez framing lesson #5
"I can't say I was ever lost, but I was bewildered once for three days."
Mike.
Call me when you have the right job for it. You be the first certified D-Mix specialist.. Wait until you see my special D-Mix tools. I still keep them.
Witchcraft? Jock? 'snipe hunt'. What else?
I start to feel like SteelBudda.
No more D-mix and witches brew for me.
I get Razz-Rezz-Russo -ouzo and get it all in a video.
How much ouzo do you put in the D-mix?
Ever substitute Sambucca?
6 16 17 97 99
Mike, I don't drink, but I'll take a swig now!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Ouzo? i stay way from this stuff. Ouzo actually play a good part in my life.
I got so sick from it once that never try it again. Or any other exotic and national drink. Sambucca sounds like ouzo. Is funny how strong the name is.
bazzuka. No thanks.
The ouzo goes into the applicator.
Tim,
No need to call your rep., it's on their website -
RED TOP Guaging Plaster
Calcium Sulfate Hemi-hydrate
The difference between PoP and Gauge is that one costs $8 for 5#, and one costs $10 for 50#.
The laborers called it "Red Top", and the oldtimers used to call it "Hi-guage"- which really annoyed our forman for some reason. Every time he'd hear one of them say "hi-guage", He'd say "Quit callin' it that! It's 'guagin'".
If you've ever seen a plasterer use lime and guaging, it's the same thing but substitute the JC for the lime.
I'm still trying to figure out what the PVA is for.
6 16 17 97 99
Extra credit: Who knows where the name " Plaster of Paris" comes from?
Edited 2/25/2005 6:15 pm ET by Mike Rooney
reading this thread and trying to figure out what D-mix is ---however, I had to jump in for the extra credit - plaster of Paris is named for Paris where the mix was first invented (don't know who invented it or when but I do remember that from somewhere - trival pursuit??)
Jumping into the middle of the thread I couldn't figure why someone would be adding soda POP to the mix.
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
dam mid-westeners.
don't know what to call a carbonated beverage
I got the same problem with my wife's family in Mi.
I try and teach them proper English every time I visit
>> I try and teach them proper English every time I visitHow to win friends and influence people.
they know I do it outta love
everytime I seen Paris, she was plastered..or working on the ivory tower..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Restoring, Remodeling, Reclaiming The Quality..
It wasn't invented, it was discovered - when they burned the place down.
Bein' the firedude, you should've known that!
6 16 17 97 99
Mike.
Can you tell us the whole story?
http://www.lafargeprestia.fr/plaster.en.html
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
Thanks Razz and Mike.
Dino,
The story I was told was that the city of Paris was built over a gypsum deposit and its properties were discovered when the place burned down. However, I can't seem to find any reference to a great fire in the history of Paris.
Maybe it's just a story.
Mike
6 16 17 97 99
It must be the one in London. Storys.
My first construction job was making and installing plaster moldings.Very good money at 10. The "mastora" boss was a really nice guy and we become good friends. The story that he made up about a secret recipe made him very rich.
One day I ask him about the recipe and he say to me:
-Do you see me using any special stuff?
I say No. I open the bags and I do all the work while you're chasing woman's around town.
-Let me tell you a biiiiigggggg secret. My recipe is so secret that I don't even know. Let's keep it like that.
Years later I found out how the story was created.Some one give him a black eye for "talking" to his wife and he come up with the story.
One day I saw him with a black eye and I ask him. What happen mastora? They try to steal the secret recipe again?
It was me who gave him the black eye!
;+}
Got to go watch the race now.
6 16 17 97 99
Yc, I sent you an email. Do you ever check your emails or are you mad at me and won't answer?
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Blue.If you can get me mad, Is good for me.I can finish something that I'm working for years and never come up with the right solution.
I send you an email already.I think you're the one who don't check the Email.
I got your email. I was afraid that you say that. I really wanted to hear something different.
Oh well....
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
since you brought up "fire" - here's something I found about plaster of Paris - looks more like it was the first fire rated finish material - of course, they had London burning down to figure that out Plaster of Paris. Throughout the centuries, expertise was gained in many parts of the World with gypsum calcinations. In the 1700's, Paris was already the "capital of plaster" ("Plaster of Paris") since all the walls of wooden houses were covered with plaster, as a protection against fire. The King of France had enforced this rule after the big London fire literally destroyed this city in 1666. Large gypsum deposits near Paris have long been mined to manufacture… "Plaster of Paris". can't quite get why the King of France enforced the rule after the big London fire ... destroyed this city (London fire not Paris fire - right??) site also bring up gypsum deposits mined in Paris - wonder if they had one hr/two hr rated wood wall??? UL listed assemblies????
Quick report... using regular joint compound with the mix instead of the lightweight did make for a somewhat harder surface when finished. I didn't really notice any difference in how easily it went on, so I guess I would say it's the way to go if you think the area it's being used on might be subject to any abuse.
Have at thee...
Tim, I don't know why, but I like this thread too. I really do think it's hilarious too. It demonstrates how dumb I am about things but it also reminds me to treat others with a little humility when they ask framing questions.
blue
Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Ill see if my chemist buddy can solve the confusion- if not help the spelling lol
Rusty
wow... that sounds like a lot of work..
i'm thinking more and more that straight skim-coat plaster is faster and less labor intensive..
you know what a typical crew would be in a plaster finish.. a lead plasterer, another plasterer, and a laborer to mix and fetch.. after the blueboard is hung..
they would come in .. apply thier corners and bead, put on the fiberglass tape, run all their joints, knock out the ceilings ( smooth or textured )
then do their walls..
typical.. my last addition. i think it was 4000 sf... 12' cathedral ceiling.. they were there less than 3 days
Tim:
I don't want to get in the way while somebody is having his head stomped...but about the plaster of paris:
I found in mixing a batch of this stuff that the plaster made the mix set quickly once it was applied to the wall, so somebody doing a repair could finish up in one day. The walls I did were sandable in a couple of hours. Unlike setting-type joint compound, the mixture in the bucket stayed workable for several hours.
I'm not advocating for one approach over another, and it's obvious you know a lot more about the subject than I ever will. I was just reporting that I tried the stuff and was pleased with the ease of application and the results.
I don't want to get in the way while somebody is having his head stomped...but about the plaster of paris
That's a great line. It epitomizes this thread.
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
i have no idea what 8600 sf of level 5 drywall finish would be..
but 8600 sf of 8' walls, textured ceilings... no slopes...
the board
hanging
and skim-coat, Diamond or Imperial... all by insured mechanics, with certificates for GL & WC
all materials & labor would be about $8600
tim... you oughta cool your jets... lot's of guys have met dino.. he's exactly what he says he is...
a nice guy with some great tools..
you oughta get yourself one.. you'd probably leave your tablesaw in the shop
why are you getting worked up about this ?
do you think someone is challenging your expertise ?
WOW ! Do you mean to say that YC Friend is Dino from the Eurekazone? The guy that sells developed, manufactures, and sells the EZ Smart guide for cutting wood?
Great detective work on your part. Thanks for the big red lettered post to alert all the rest of us to this information. Don't know how I didn't manage to put this all together myself - perhaps my brain is not big enough or I didn't have enough time to do the investigative work that you have.
Oh, by the way, you might want to try one of those EZ Smart guide deals and the cut table - I have had mine for a few months now and gotta say it rocks.
Tim, you sound like the one to listen to on this whole D-Mix thing.. With or without the POP, I'm definetly doing my next house with it (I just don't think I have it in me to finish an entire house--cathedral ceilings and all--by myself again). I'm a good taper and finisher--the traditional way--but I just don't have the time this time.
I'll test the POP question though--scientifically. I'll let you know the results. BUT ONE QUESTION MUST BE ANSWERED FIRST:
What type of rock must I hang to use the D-mix? Do I need blue/green board or will standard rock suffice? And if I decide to scrimp by using 1/2" on the cielings (rafters 24 0.c.) won't the blueboard max span be exceeded? What say you?
Oh, and the paper tape vs. mesh tape debate...Can I use paper to tape for the D-mix application? If not, why not? I hate mesh tape.
What type of rock must I hang to use the D-mix? Do I need blue/green board or will standard rock suffice? And if I decide to scrimp by using 1/2" on the cielings (rafters 24 0.c.) won't the blueboard max span be exceeded? What say you?
Oh, and the paper tape vs. mesh tape debate...Can I use paper to tape for the D-mix application? If not, why not? I hate mesh tape.
Somehow, your questions crack me up. I'm getting ready for another dance!
blueJust because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
Tim, no need to delete your red letter post on my account - I am not offened.
I was simply wanting to tell you to step back and take a breather. Seems like you were getting a bit worked up.
Sorry for the sarcasm. I had written a very long PC post informing you that Dino has been on the site for quite some time and was not trying to hide who he was. Looked back at this thread and my PC post somehow failed to post. So I typed in a quick sarcastic one.
Really just wanted to tell you to chill a little before you went on posting with your "findings" about Dino - as I thought you were making yourself look a bit foolish in that I think most people here know all about Dino from several of his other postings.
I know when I first saw him start posting here, I was tempted to make some kind attack on him for coming here to PIMP his tools. I waited and was glad. In time I even came around to buying one of the guide systems and cut tables and am glad to have been informed of their availability - I use mine more every day.
As for the D-mix, well yes I have been following that for a long time and have been frustrated with it as well. Early on I was trying to pin Dino down on specifics. Got some good responses actually with what ingrediants to use and approximate proportions - always with the disclaimer that Dino didn't know how it worked, just that it did, and that with practice and experimenting with the mix I would also come to love this mix for its ease. When things warm up, I plan on playing with it on my garage rock - till then I am still doing what I know to work in customers homes.
Sometimes when we get in a typing frenzy, it is best to just pull back, and see if we still want to post all this in another hour or so.
tim...
i've never met you, but i sure do look forward to meeting you
i have met dino, i met him at JLC-Live in Providence two year's ago..
english is not dino's first language, a lot of what he's trying to say is lost in the translation. I've never heard him taunt anyone. I've never seen him taunt anyone in print.
i AM a pimp for dino.. i fell in love with his tools...
i went to that JLC-Live with the express purpose of buying a Festool saw guide and dedicated Festool saw. I kept comming back to dino's booth because i couldn't believe that his simple guide ( the EZ Guide) could do all the things the Festool guide could do and better. and i couldn't believe that the guide cost less than the FG, nor that i could use my own saw .. or any saw for that matter..
anyways.. i bought one.. and it was just one of those things .. if this was making my life better, i felt it my duty to share it with everyone here.. and that's what i do..
i don't feel any guilt.. it's no more than saying that i think the PC lefty is the best saw.. (maybe )..
or someone pushing Bosch tools ( why not ? )
i hope dino keeps a low profile and doesn't make any waves with taunton.. he doesn't have to, he's got at least 10 converts right here to do his talking for him
as to the D-Mix... it's a technique.. it's as valid as any other technique.. it's not something to get up in arms about..
with our work , i might even try it.. but probably not.. not because it won't work great.. we just don't need it..not with skim-coat plaster being our norm..
in the rest of the world, i think you guys have to develop these techniques.. you have 30 years with a trowel background..
some of these neophytes need a leg up.. they can practise with the hopes of becomming as proficient as you.. or they can move to something like Tuff Hyde.. or D-mix.. whatever..
i was intrigued by the new products from USG & Sherwin Williams for facilitating Level 5 finishes.. when i checked.. they were only for spray applications..
this D-mix....... or........... your home brew.. make it possible for someone like me to get close to your results without the 30 years of practise
as for dino's background.. i think he's been knocking around the trades , honing his skills, for the same 30 years as you or me... i think he's one of these guys that sees mechanical solutions to things others see as physical skill solutions..
my lead man doesn't think like a carpenter.. he thinks like a machinist.. i gotta keep telling him , it's wood... and we work to sixteenths, not sixtyfourths..
anyways.. if you met dino, you'd like him.. he's the genuine article
Mike that was an excellent postand thanks for sharing your thoughts andI think Tim is getting a little bent out of shape.But with what you said maybe that will help clearthings up.
Do a search on d-mix and POP and plaster of paris for the last 2 or 3 months.
This started when when he mention how well it worked in some thread on finishing DW.
He also gave some mention of his background in using it. IIRC it was for restoration purpose, not new DW.
Then people started asking more and more questions about it. Then he got the idea of marketing it.
Hi Bill.
I have my hands full with the EZ. The woodworking problems are more important to me and the trade than the finish in the walls. (85.000 people end up in the emergency room every year.) (pushing the wood into spinning blades and knifes)
I don't think that I have the time and the energy to take the D-Mix to the market. What I say before is that I don't think is right to keep it secret and take it with me when I know that this D-Mix can solve many problems for many people. Create jobs and income etc etc.
The idea that i got from here is to make an instructional video and free lessons to any breaktimer who needs and wants to learn the system. we will need to recover the money for the video and if we make few extra bucks..we can use it.
Now. about some basic questions. (for the tenth time?)
If you use paper tape you can't apply the D-Mix the same day. With Fiberglass you can apply the first coat and final the same hour. (similar to venner plaster)
You can use it on any drywall.Blue-white-green ,and any plaster walls.
Now.. for those who can come to NJ.
The first SAT. of April. At 53 National Road. Edison NJ
08817 11.00AM.
See you guys.
Now.. for those who can come to NJ.
The first SAT. of April. At 53 National Road. Edison NJ
08817 11.00AM.
Maybe I missed it in an earlier post. Are you doing a D-mix demo? I am in Scotch Plains (which is real close to Edison) and would consider coming.
-Don
Welcome.
We will do the D-Mix and plaster repairs. Paching up holes, one coat taping with the d-mix. whatever.
YC, don't go to NJ. That's a waste of time. Instead, I'll challenge you to duel Tim in a D-mix mud-off. I've got two long walls in my garage....you do one and Tim can do the other. Whichever guy has the best finish, and the shortest time, wins the milkbones. And...the loser has to use the other guy's techniques to do the third wall.
I'll treat you guys to some homemade spaghetti (my wife makes the best spaghetti) for lunch too, unless you're both BSers and you aren't done yet.
blue
ps Don't ask for the spaghetti recipe.....I don't dance as well as I used to.Just because you can, doesn't mean you should!
Warning! Be cautious when taking any framing advice from me. There are some in here who think I'm a hackmeister...they might be right! Of course, they might be wrong too!
YC, don't go to NJ. That's a waste of time.
I know that. My Fiat is getting ready for summer.
I'm not going to NJ.
<What would you think if Rez started giving lessons in here on framing?>
Funny you should say that.
I have discovered that as long as you stay within 1/64th of the cut line then all will be well.
be rez framing lesson #1
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
Curved stairs are to be transplanted from salvaged homes.
be rez framing lesson #2
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
I see your point, but that means you have to salvage a home with exactly the same floor to floor distance as the one your working on. Otherwise, if you have to modify the stair at all, you need the video. :)
Unless you can alter the upper and lower floors a tad, remove needed steps, cheat a little bit, and get lucky.
be rez framing lesson #3
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
Tim-
Wow, the tenor of your posts here sound really out of character from your norm. Almost as if someone else were typing and using your name.
You been under the gun about something of late or what?
What's up?
be wondering
SanchoRon the caballero bowed low as he waved his sombrero and said goodbye.
FREE SANCHO!!!
Ok Tim.
The JC dries from outside (air) and creates a skin that makes it impossible to rework the same materials 5-10 minutes later. You need 3-4 coats 3-4 days and..sanding and problems with the finish.
The setting compound dry from inside (chemical-reaction) and shrinks. Is only good for patch-up work or taping the corners etc.
The trick is to have a custom drying process. We want to mix one bucket and work for few hours. But the same time we want to work with the materials on the wall without skin or shrinkage. And we want the materials to be EZ to make them smooth and easy to correct any problems.
The D-Mix gives you all that. The paint makes the JC like butter / whip-cream and the plaster of paris helps on the uniform drying of the mix without a skin or shrinkage. What you have now is a mix that is EZ to apply with a roller and make it smooth with a tape knife/trowel or other tools. Is like self smoothing. I don't know how to say it and how to explain the whole 9 yards because what works for me may not work for someone else. Give it a try and you may find a better way to work with this stuff.
Steel: I am planning to use D-Mix on a stairwell. Never used it before, like you. Have all the components, but have not had the day free to attack it. Don't want to be rushed, since it is a new process. Am not a pro - just a DIY'er that will try anything that sounds reasonable.
Question - how thick does it trowel out? I need to know if I should remove the baseboard cap or not.
Don
The way I did it, thickness averages maybe 1/32". Since it levels things out, it's obviously thicker in some places and thinner in others.I wouldn't bother removing any trim. Just be neat when you're rolling the goo on.
Steel: Another question - how fast does it set on the walls? You said "Faster" than in the bucket - but you didn't say how fast it sets. I have three walls - the largest is the side of a stairwell - roughly 16 ft bottom to top & about 16 ft wide. Have to use a scaffold to reach the top, so there will be some lost time while moving things around.Feel much better about thickness now. I sprung for one of those rubber bladed special finishing tools that was mentioned in one of the posts.DonThe GlassMasterworks - If it scratches, I etch it!