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old cast iron laundry sink install

bmauers's picture

I'm re-installing a very heavy 5 foot long cast iron laundry sink in basement that must've collapsed at some point. The back, top edge has 4 large teeth that fit into a metal railing bolted to wall. What is the best way to support the bottom? Wood frame? Iron pipe legs? There are 2 bolt mounts under each of the side washboard panels. Does anyone know how they were originally installed?


(post #106398, reply #1 of 11)

Originally, many of these sinks were mounted on top of metal cabinets that had rounded corners to match the rounded corners of your sink (you have rounded corners, no?).

I have installed several of these for folks without the original metal cabinets.  Simplest way is to install them into a new countertop as a "drop-in" with whatever legs or cabinet base works best.  If you can find wall brackets that match the cast iron tabs on the back of the sink, you are ahead of most.  Otherwise, you can cob up some sort of cleat from wood.

I had thought at one point of using legs but couldn't figure out a secure way to attach any sort of leg directly to the cast iron sink and didn't want to risk someone kicking a leg out from under the sink and having a 200 lb sink land on their foot.

Wish I had some pictures to share but I'll check. 

(post #106398, reply #3 of 11)

What about 2 concrete posts using those cardboard tube forms? There are 2 places I could anchor them with bolts underneath each side. Would look good enough for the basement. I'm also thinking about a sledge hammer and the scrap dealer. Angle iron would be great but i'd hate to tackle that with just a hacksaw. The corners are round and i'm not sure how i'd handle that with wood frame.


(post #106398, reply #4 of 11)

Yeah, just a hack saw would take some time. Not to mention you'd have one arm like Popeye by the time you're done.

The concrete in tubes would work, would probably even look kind of cool. But without diagonal support you definately want to securely attach it to the wall.


Cheap Tools at
See some of my work at

~ Ted W ~

(post #106398, reply #2 of 11)

I see a lot of concrete double utility sinks, similar size and probably a bit heavier. They are set on a platfor made from angle iron - a rectangle with 4 legs which are stabilized with diagonals.

What ever you do, it has to be really solid. At some point somebody is going to fill it to the top with water, probably weighing about a ton.


Cheap Tools at
See some of my work at

~ Ted W ~

(post #106398, reply #5 of 11)

As a laundry sink (not kitchen) it very likely had metal legs or legs/frame.   Laundry sinks usually had two or three deep compartments, often with sloping fronts like these (shown without legs attached).  Before cast iron they often used soapstone with a metal support frame like this one -  I suggest you go to a metal shop and have some made with the corresponding bolt holes in welded flanges.


(post #106398, reply #6 of 11)

Thanks Jeff - those are great links. Apparently I have a "standard farm sink". I assumed it was a laundry sink b/c it was in the basement... next to the washing machine. It looks like metal legs/metal frame is the way to go. I will use those 2 bolt mounts underneath and come up with something.


(post #106398, reply #7 of 11)

I used a simple 2 X 4 frame for mine, dressed it up to fit in later ..

(post #106398, reply #8 of 11)

Very nice! I really like this. 2 questions: What type of joinery did you use on the top? Are the legs connected at bottom? I guess a shelf would add some stability and utility.


(post #106398, reply #10 of 11)

sorry for late reply, I'm a weekday bt'r, nothing fancy just deck screws, dressed it up a bit from that pic, added a curtain to cover below .. ran 2x's arround the base to steady it up and a shelf, but really once it was screwed to the wall it wasn't going anywhere ..

Edited 6/9/2008 8:06 am ET by wane

(post #106398, reply #9 of 11)

A third question -- is that some kinda floor stapler under the sink?

Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA

Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

(post #106398, reply #11 of 11)

that would be, it does t-nails app 2" long ..