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What are the best woods for exterior guard rails and handrails. I want to stay away from mahogany and Brazilian cherry because of the high cost. It always hurts to paint mahogany or other fine woods. I have thought about trex and others like it, but don’t know anything about using them for paint grade stuff. Poplar would be my first choice because of the price.
One more question. What is the best fastening system when a wood rail is between two concrete posts. I am thinking of boring in steel pins and notching the top rail around them. The customer doesn’t want any hardware showing.
Thanks
Derek
thanks
Derek
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Derek, you shouldn't ever use poplar outdoors, although it's great for inside trim. If mahogany were out, I'd look at fir, and make sure they are well sealed on all sides before exposing them to the weather. Ipe or cedar are other options.
As for your rail, steel pins would work. I would consider roto-hammering out a small cavity in the concrete, inserting a piece of steel bar with pre-drilled holes (Simpson brand from the lumberyard would work), and locking the steel in with hydrolic cement or epoxy. If the location gets a lot of weather or is near the ocean use stainless steel.
*Ditto Mikes's comments about poplar .......quick to rot on exterior applications.
*If i are planning to paint, i'd prefer clear cedar. Fir seems to always have those pitch pockets that bleed when the sun hits them, dissolving the paint layer.I'd prefer a bracket instead of a pin for greater bearing and to keep the rail from rolling. Just set the bracket into a mortise on the underside of the rail and it'll be inconsequential for viewing purposes.
*Ive seen rotten fir poplar and pine. Go with cedar, natures pressure treated.T
*no,no,no,
*Here in the East...I have seen cedar planked decks rot out 50$...with boards being stepped right thru even...after 7 wet years.Still...for exterior use...painted on all sides...cedar.And GP trim...near the stream,aj
*why would you use ceder on a deck instead of treated pine? that won't rot in 7 years?why exclude the treated pine?
*Western Yellow Cedar- aka Alaskan Cypressstraight grain- won't check or split- costs more than fir or red cedar- far less than Ipe or mahogany.I like Splinter's idea with the brackets...