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rebar in sonotube

bikeguy's picture

I'm going to be pouring some footings using sonotubes. They will be about 24" deep 12" in diameter. The bottom of the hole will be 18"d, I'll pour about 4" then set the sonotube in then fill it up. The footings will support a small mud room on the back of a small cabin.
My questions are, do I need rebar, how many pieces and should the have an ell at the bottom to protrude into the wider portion? At the top I will sink in simpson column bases.

(post #108331, reply #1 of 9)

There's another form product now on the market, a plastic tube with a bell shaped base, which would be a better choice for what you're describing.  Using those forms you can make the whole pour at once, achieving a strong, well supported pier.  

(post #108331, reply #2 of 9)

A lot depends on the locallty and whether seismic codes come into play.

(post #108331, reply #3 of 9)

I put rebar in some I did that were similar. I used three evenly spaced bars in each column that were poured directly into the footer. Some of mine were 9' high and getting the sonotube over the bar was tricky.

There was no requirement for engineering on my foundation. What I did was seat of the pants and likely overkill. No problems after five years in the house. I also used ready mix 3500# test crete pumped into place.

(post #108331, reply #4 of 9)

for the plan you've been working on, yes I'd use rebar and a hook, maybe even a ring of rebar in the footer to catch the hook or j rebar that will run vertically.


I think this is what frammer was talking about http://www.bigfootsystems.com/.  One pour and you're done.

(post #108331, reply #5 of 9)

I have looked online and have seen the big foot, redibase and the footing tube, but nobody in my area seems to carry them.
So will I be good with four pieces of rebar and putting an X at the top and near the bottom to hold them together? It will be simpler than trying to form a ring.

(post #108331, reply #6 of 9)

that would work for me.  be sure that the rebar is fully encased in the cc and not sticking out into the adjacent soil


but it's not that hard to form a ring, a correctly sized tree on the lot can do wonders.

(post #108331, reply #7 of 9)

Trees I have! But once I bend the ring around the tree, I'll have to cut the tree down to get the ring off, just joking, I know I could shave the branches off and lift it over the top:)
1/2" or 3/8" bar?

(post #108331, reply #8 of 9)

did i say tree?  try a stump. 


dunno on your sizing, the smaller is easier to work

(post #108331, reply #9 of 9)

A real steel supplier will have the stirrups made up already in various sizes and shapes. It is not worth trying to bend them yourself.
I still have a bunch of 8" rings around here but I doubt I could ship them for what they cost.

Greg