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Replacing Rakes Boards On Ends Of House

JIMMIEM's picture

I have a 2 story colonial style house in MA.  Siding is stained red cedar clapboards and the rake boards are painted pine.  The rake boards are getting old and weathered with some soft spots that I have been maintaining with wood filler.  I want to replace the rake boards with PVC (Azek).....I have already replaced all the corner trim boards with PVC.  I watched a couple of guys re-do the rake boards on my neighbor's house with PVC.  I spoke to one of the guys and he commented that it is a time consuming job as all the shingle nails that penetrate the rake boards had to be removed and replaced.  I asked if he would be interested in replacing the rakes on my house and he wasn't interested.   I'm not to thrilled with doing the work myself and am wondering if there are any alternatives or tips for making this job a little easier.  The rakes have a second rake on top of the first just under the roof shingles....don't remember the name for this board....double rake or shadow rake? 

FWIW I have the roof reshingled a few years ago and asked the roofer if he would do the rakes at that time.  I also wanted to do the rake that is on a front jog of the house....I told the roofer that I would mill and build the rake for the front jog if his crew could atttach it.  He agreed to that. They didn't do a very good job of attaching it and I wound up having to add additional screws to get it to lie flat.  Probably a good idea that they didn't do the rakes on the ends of the house......ok roofers.....ng carpenters.

You're making a good move. We (post #215327, reply #1 of 3)

You're making a good move. We replace a lot of fascia with PVC and the roofing nails can be a pain. We tear off the old wood any way we can then use long handled nippers to reach up and clip the nails off. Once you have that done putting up the new is easy and straight forward.  We wrap all inside and outside corner with butyl flashing tape first so if there ever was a leak it wouldn't hurt anything. We use Trex or Royal PVC and can usually get 24' pieces to avoid joints. If we do have to have a joint we put an 18" strip of flashing tape behind that too and seal the joint with polyurethane caulk before we close it up. We use lots of SS 8# finish nails.

Florida Licensed Building Contractor, 45 years experience in commercial remodeling, new homes, home remodeling and repairs and all types building maintenance.

Do you renail the shingles (post #215327, reply #2 of 3)

Do you renail the shingles into the new rake board?

No, the nail is still there, (post #215327, reply #3 of 3)

No, the nail is still there, we just nip off the exposed shank where it would interfer with the new rake boards. 

Florida Licensed Building Contractor, 45 years experience in commercial remodeling, new homes, home remodeling and repairs and all types building maintenance.