Have an 1888 Victorian home I am remodeling. So far I have removed the lath and plaster in three rooms, insulated the exterior walls with Ultratouch insulation, added new electrical for a chandeliers, LED can lights, and several additional receptacles. Now I am ready to do drywall, but have a problem. The lath and plaster was 3/4″ thick. Will be using 5/8″ drywall. Need to make up the 1/8″ thickness somehow on the walls. I could use 1/8″ bubble foil wrap as a shim, use a wood shim on every stud, or maybe even veneer the drywall the extra 1/8″. Which of these would be the best choice, or is there even a better way?
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if you are having to match up to existing plaster then 1/2'' + 1/4'' works well.
Ewen
Where will the problems be: door/ window jambs, base not covering flooring, other?
You might have other options available. A chance to straighten walls. If some studs are in need of padding to bring them into plane or plumb for instance. Check with a long level and /or straightedge. Maybe just +1/8" at the doors/windows. Plaster and lath was often the means to make old framing perfect.
if you want to pad out and don't have a love affair for hanging board, strip the framing with cheap paneling and use the 5/8's or find full qtr and use 1/2" board. Quick and repetitive rips and slapping them on will beat time spent dbl boarding.
Using strips of cardboard (non-corrugated variety) would be a period-appropriate shimming technique.
furr it
calvin wrote:
Quick and repetitive rips and slapping them on will beat time spent dbl boarding.
...not to mention save money on material. I'd concur with this approach.
Most of the problems are around window and door jambs. Surprisingly, redwood walls studs are all in plane. Not particularly fond of doing the drywall twice, so furring the studs sounds good. But, will I have a problem with drywall screws when they hit the furring strips and what length screw, 1 3/4" or 2"?
E
I'd staple up the furring with appropriate length narrow crown staples I had on the truck. Mostly to hold the furring in place till boarded.
1- 5/8" coarse is plenty of screw, furring is just a shim, the board is still hung on the framing.
Two layers of 3/8 would be my choice in a perfect world, or what Calvin said in my world.
Two layers drywall
If I decide to do two layers of 1/4" and 1/2" drywall, does the first layer need tape and mud?
nope, not unless you have some weird ocd thing that wouldnt let you sleep at night knowing its not tape.
Why would you pick 1/4 and 1/2 drywall instead of 2 layers of 3/8? 1/4" is harder to come by and very weak. If that was my only option, I would scrap that idea and shim the drywall out. Two layers of 3/8" is way better. You can screw down the first layer as usual, but use panel adhesive and minimal screws to attach the top sheets. This will make a strong wall, with less finishing of the fasteners.