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Step flashing over bay window

Autod1dact's picture

Step flashing over bay window (post #205613)

Autod1dact on Fri, 01/13/2012 - 14:21
in

I'm in the process of re-siding my house with Hardiplank in my spare time.  I'm about 40% done.  

Now, I know my way around basic flashing details, but I've never done roofing and I'm a little stumped with respect to my bay window.  It's a (very steep) tiny hip roof.  Previously it had no flashing, just a generous gooping of sealant against the ancient wood siding.

I've got the siding off, so I'm adding step flashing.  If this were a simple roof/wall intersection I'd be fine, but the fact that it's hipped kind of has me scratching my head.  Where the roof meets the wall there is a line of nails that were previously buried in the mass of sealant. 

Should I: 

- Thread the step flashing behind the architectural shingles as best I can? Or:

- Lay the step flashing over everything, then adhere portions of new shingles to conceal the step flashing? (I have matching shingles.)

-A +A

If this is a typical angled (post #205613, reply #1 of 12)

by Piffin in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Fri, 01/13/2012 - 15:02

If this is a typical angled bay window, then the roof plane meets the wall two ways - that is a compound angle. So in many respects, this is a head wall flashing as much as it is a side wall flashing.

For a purist, it is best to work the steps into the shingles.

 

But for your situation, I might be tempted to just make three long headwall piecs with hem on bottom to lay on top of the shingles if it can be done neatly. If not, I would remove the shingles on the two side hips to do step flashing and work it in appropriately

 

 


or try this site for the whole gang

http://forums.delphiforums.com/breaktimeclass/start

If there's room and it makes sense........... (post #205613, reply #2 of 12)

by calvin in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Fri, 01/13/2012 - 15:58

I'd add steps-they'll be longer than store bought.

Counterflash over that and then side it.

Once the siding is up it won't be easy to do anything but goop the heck out of it.

 

Don't forget to seal the cuts of the siding and to leave it up off the shingles the recommended amount-2" for hardi?

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

I think the thing that had me (post #205613, reply #3 of 12)

by Autod1dact in reply to calvin [original] on Fri, 01/13/2012 - 16:28

I think the thing that had me so confused was that the baby tins obviously didn't line up nicely with the shingles.  Of course not - because, like you said, they need to be longer.  

Thanks!

I guess I'll make up my own baby tins.  They'll be covered by another piece of metal I had bent up (so I could space the Hardie off the roof), so no one will see them (i.e. they can be ugly).

It's not working out (post #205613, reply #6 of 12)

by Autod1dact in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Thu, 01/19/2012 - 12:24

I'm confused.  I bought some 4x4 L from Home Depot and have been bending it by hand to the correct angle to make my custom baby tins. . .

 

But no matter what I do it seems that I either end up with metal showing, or the possibility of shedding water over nail heads in the courses below.  Is there something that I'm missing?  

 

I made a quick doodle with Sketchup, without any attention paid to dimensions.

Edit: just ignore the drawing.  It was made in haste and was sloppy.  I have posted a photo.

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Shingle_problem.png
Shingle_problem.png52.27 KB

In case you were wondering (post #205613, reply #4 of 12)

by Autod1dact in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Thu, 01/19/2012 - 11:31

I do have a kickout flashing at the end of this.  I did a little aluminum origami, then took a block of wood and a hammer to smooth it out some to make a solid kickout without any pinholes.  It's not the most professional detail, but it looks fine from the sidewalk.   

 

Edit: and I'm posting the actual sketchup file, just in case some helpful soul will add to my doodle.

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shingle_problem.skp58.42 KB

auto (post #205613, reply #5 of 12)

by calvin in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Thu, 01/19/2012 - 11:38

What I meant was, you need longer tin-so you can let it run down more towards the edge of the shingle-instead of leaving it square at the bottom, back cut it parallel to the edge of the shingle.  Your sketch has me confused in that the first tin is under the bottom shingle (but looks like it's on top), the next tin up will be under the next course and so on.............

 

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

I made the drawing too quickly (post #205613, reply #7 of 12)

by Autod1dact in reply to calvin [original] on Thu, 01/19/2012 - 12:51

Here's what I mean.  Should I just tar over those nail heads and carry on?  

PreviewAttachmentSize
Step_flash_bay_window_problem.JPG
Step_flash_bay_window_problem.JPG1.62 MB
Step_flashing_problem.JPG
Step_flashing_problem.JPG1.47 MB

auto....for a steep roof you (post #205613, reply #8 of 12)

by MikeSmith in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Thu, 01/19/2012 - 19:43

auto....for a steep roof you need  bigger step flash

also..hardie  wants you to  clear  the roof be 2"...which  is  ugly and unneccessary

we  make  our flashings out of colored coil stock to  compliment  the siding

 

you  should  see NO  flashing on the pitch of the roof

we  keep the  hardie up  3/4 above the  roof shingles

if  there is a flat spot at the top, then you  need a  break flash to go  over the  level, non-pitched shingles

Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

              www.mfsmithbuilder.com

Ah ha! (post #205613, reply #9 of 12)

by Autod1dact in reply to MikeSmith [original] on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 07:37

Thanks Mike!

Yes, I see it now.  I need not only a longer step, but a wider one too!  That way it would extend all the way down to the nail line, when I make my horizontal cut.  

In my case, this would end up being huge; those baby tins would be full-grown!  ;-) I'm seeing a lot of wasted material, and I'm running out of patience anyway.

I'm just going to put a black angle with a hem over everything, and sealant underneath.  Yesterday, my wife said "It just has to be there," which is our slogan for when I'm making a mountain out of a molehill.  

With respect to spacing Hardie off the roof: I'm running some metal L under it because I'm doing a 3/4" rain-screen, and (with the roof so steep) one could easily look up under the siding.  Ugly.  I was going to space the Hardie 3/4" or 1" off this L and paint the bright white to match the Hardie.  There might be some snow build-up on the L angle now and then, but with the cut edge of the Hardie sealed I'm not too worried about it.

Remember to not caulk that metal "L" (post #205613, reply #10 of 12)

by calvin in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 15:24

To the siding, and go over the top of  it with your housewrap.  If any water gets behind the siding and on top of the housewrap, you want it to have a way out and over your flashing.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

Will do !  I mean, will not. (post #205613, reply #11 of 12)

by Autod1dact in reply to calvin [original] on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 18:05

Will do !  I mean, will not.  =D

you've got one of those situations that probably wouldn't....... (post #205613, reply #12 of 12)

by calvin in reply to Autod1dact [original] on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 18:35

leak if it's life depended on it.

 

But, I've seen damage occur when even the simplest operations weren't done.   And that's just plain wrong.  Long slow leak that doesn't show up for 7 yrs................

from lack of just a couple hours work.

 

Like the kickout flashing.

 

Tell your wife you love her.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/