Tapcons in brick – what am I doing wrong
I’m trying to furr out 1×3 strips over and old chimney to screw off drywall to. However, about 2/3s of my tapcons (5/16 x 1-3/4) keep pulling out. I’m drilling in with a masonry bit and they just aren’t holding into my brick.
What am I doing wrong? Any other way to attach the furring? Or should I just glue the drywall right onto the brick?
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Are you using the right size bit? I just went through a few bits and picked up one that looked about right. It turned out it was a little to big so the tapcons didn't bite.
I went back and found the right one and it was clear sailing.
Drill the mortar, not the brick
Use the right size bit
don't over drive the screw, just get snug
or try GRK Caliburn screws
Yes an option is to glue the strapping and set cut nails insted of Tapcons
Now then - you say old chimney.
Is it disabled from using as an exhaust flue? You could be creating source of danger here if not.
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In my house, I drilled the brick, not the mortar. It might depend on the conditions on the site.
Also - if it doesn't bite, put a short piece of small guage wire in the hole. It can work like magic to tighten up a tapcon.
There are two sizes of tapcons - people have said this already, but make sure you have the right bit.
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If it doesn't bite it is because the brick is too soft for tapcons
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You're probably drilling into a soft brick.
I use tapcons only for concrete. For brick, I use plastic anchors.
Forget the tapcons and furring. Load up the back of the drywall with 1 snotload of compound and smush the whole thing against the bricks, brace it with some sticks. The next day it will be "one" with the brickwork.
The size of the snotload depends on how uneven the bricks are.
The fireplace is abandoned so no fire risk there.
I'm thinking gluing the drywall on. Do I need to worry about moisture issues?
Is that a metric snotload or SAE?
Oh that building code raises it's ugly head one more time. With that in mind, you've got to keep a minimum of 2 inches clearance(no combustible contact) to all surfaces of chimney. Even if you don't intend to get this job inspected, you might want an inspection for resale at a later date and this might come up then.
Now to answer your question:(just my answer, not the only answer)
Using metal studs or similar, attach with longer Topcon screws. The size your using is way too short. Your furred strip alone is 3/4 inch thick leaving max of 3/4 inch of screw into the brick. Brick easily cracks and crumbles (too friable)under Topcon pressure so drill deeper holes and use longer screws. In my opinion, I suggest you locate your holes on the grout spaces instead of the brick but again use longer screws and deeper holes there too. Sheetrock is considered non combustible, just for the record, but inspectors like to see the label indicating that's its fire rated rock to be sure.
In keeping with the code issues issues, it might be wise to fill in the space between the brick and drywall with a six inch wide strip of compressed fiberglass batting every 6 to 8 feet of space to act as fire blocking.
PS The inspectors will insist on that 2 inch clearance regardless if chimney is abandoned. To them a chimney is a chimney, or could be a chimney in the future, so maintain that 2 inch clearance.
Edited 11/23/2007 6:08 pm by woodway
Edited 11/23/2007 6:22 pm by woodway
That is why I used the term disabled. Not sure what he means by abandoned
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Apply a generous amount of construction adhesive to the brick, using plastic tip of the tube to rub it in so it's not just laying on loose dust. Also apply it to the furring strip. Use tapcons that will reach at least 1" in to the brick "Not the mortar", and drill even deeper. Use a hammer drill or impact driver to drive the tapcons. Ideally they will slightly sink into the wood. Some will strip out and some won't. Let the glue dry over night.
Also, if the brick is too soft you might try the next smaller drill bit.
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I'm with reno. Old chimney=soft brick, soft mortar. Lead anchors.
Just to let everyone know, I ended up framing up a stud wall with the studs turned on their side, so the wall is 1-1/2" deep. The I bought so Simpson angle brackets and plastic screw anchors to go into the brick. Ended up using #8x1" screws into the anchors, holding on to the angles. The nice thing about the angles was that I didn't have to shim the 2x4s to the brick, I could hold the studs out from the brick with the angles. Worked great. Good advice, folks, thanks!
When driving tapcons into old, soft brick, I find that using the next smaller drill size than the one recommended will work much better.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
I guess I need glasses, I looked at this thread on the list and thought it said, "tampons in brick". It caught my attention kinda quick until I saw what it really said upon second look. Thought I'd have a hoot of a thread to read.
Oh well, carry on.
LOL, I was going to post some humorous reply about screwing into tampons, but I suppose good taste would preclude that. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Call me old school, but I haven't found anything faster or stronger than cut nails when firring brick and mortar with 3/4" material.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
Well, I've heard of girls built like a brick .........!Those little plastic sields we used to use for screws in drywall are tamp ons arn't they?
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Tampons only work in soft material no good for brickYou can make it fool proof but not idiot proof
Thanks, I've needed a laugh lately.
I realize this is a really old post but I would not use tapcons in mortar. Brick is fine but not recommended for mortar. If brick is too soft the mortar isn't going to be the answer. Proper bit is definitely important. My most commonly used tapcons is 1/4"and that requires 3/16" mason bit with hammer drill. Sounds obvious but I've seen people try with a regular drill and usually it widened the hole at best.