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Weld shop floor for Pole Barn

yt's picture

I will build a small 40x24 pole barn.  No slab, it's on floor joists.  I need a floor for the metal art/weld shop without a mega load.  Anything light weight out there suggested? 

(post #105436, reply #1 of 8)


     I am interested in any input to this question.

     larry b

(post #105436, reply #2 of 8)

can't use a slab? seems like wood and welding don't go together very well. If not maybe VCT.

(post #105436, reply #4 of 8)

"seems like wood and welding don't go together very well"

Much to my surprise, when I was in the welding area of one of Caterpillar's older repair facilities, the floor in all areas was end grain wood blocks that were soaked with oil (I don't know if the oil soaking was on purpose or just inadvertently from the various machinery that had ome through there. I also have seen the same type of flooring in other, older shop areas where they do occasional welding. I plan on concrete for the floor of my welding shop, however.

I have also been in welding areas where there was a wood floor that was covered with thin sheet metal.

(post #105436, reply #5 of 8)

sounds like the sheet metal might be the cheapest. Might be real slippery unless embossed though.

(post #105436, reply #8 of 8)

My father was a tool and die maker for Republic Steel in Cleveland. I worked as a laborer in the summers while in college, late '60's. Usually spent the first month or so of that time working the floor crew. We would replace the end grain, oil(more like tar) impregnated wood blocks anywhere we were told. It was common to find it in the main press area and the tool and die shop. Nobody thought anything about the material. The building, about 250,000 sq ft, went back to the turn of the century. I'm certain that that kind of floor is not installed anywhere anymore. Still there as I recall. Abandoned though, kind of like Cleveland.

Sir, a lightweight fiberglass impregnated concrete (1 1/2"thk), broom finish on 6mil visqueen on 2"thk masons sand should do the trick.

You didn't mention the framing we're on. If you alternate pre-engineered microlams and set a center beam to cut the spans down you could go to a thicker floor.   

ciao, ted

"You can have it fast, good or cheap.  You can only have two of the three.  Fast and good, it won't be cheap. Good and cheap, it won't be fast.  Fast and cheap, it won't be good.  Now, what's your choice?" 

(post #105436, reply #3 of 8)

This was pretty and fun and cheap (the big three) -

ACQ 2x8 @ 16" OC, 8' span, 3/4" Advantech, some of that non-felt roof underlayment, some old bricks (all cut with a single $4 abrasive 10" blade in my chop saw), and a few bags of sand and a broom.


(post #105436, reply #6 of 8)

concrete is... well best...  I have built several shops and... welding is something i do alot... so not only is concrete important  but for the thinks i build or might build i want dead level... so i can use the floor as a surface plate...

but since you don't have it...

a few ideas....

i have poured/placed alot of concrete on top of wood floors... lightweight concrete 1.5" thick with wire & fiber will hold up... if the floor will hold it...

i weld on top of hardie board scraps when i need to protect whats under it... so... maybe  a hardie board floor... you can get the 4x8 sheets with a smooth side...   maybe put down in a full notched mastic bed and screw it down...

the roll'n molten balls are what i'd worry about... so if this area was in a corner... maybe flash the edges with tin where they meet the walls...

good luck p

(post #105436, reply #7 of 8)

The shop where I have my forge and anvil has a dirt floor.  That is also where I do 99% of indoor welding.

With dirt the splatter just stays where it hits (esp hammer forging) rather than bouncing all over as with any other surface.  Plus, you never have to sweep up.

Corporation I work for all the floors where arc welding took place was polyurethane painted concrete, not even sure we do any in-house Welding anymore except for electron beam welds.