Other picks for reliable pocket door install and operation?
OK, whast if I use a model number but add spaces.
What do you think of Johnson 2 0 0 0 P D hardware
Miracle one post through.
What about above mentioned model ... very very pricey at $200
Johnson is pretty good stuff. I have one door with the 200 series and 400 on a set of converging doors.
They are slicker than snake snot. Roll great, can't fall off the track (like rhat stamped steel junk) and will carry just about any door you want.
We just installed 3 pocket doors with very similar kits (might be the same Johnson hardware but I will have to check) paid less than $80 per kit from the lumber yard so you want to take another look around for better pricing. Have no idea how they will last as we are just drywalling now.
I am still shoping for a locksets so keep me posted if you have any ideas for that?
Was your kit just the hardware and not the entire pocket framing?
As for locksets, i am not sure I will use any. Two doors laudry room to hall and ktichen, one door bath to master closet, and one master bedroom to master bath.
I really doubt we will use any of these doors much and for me, who needs a lock for a master bath. I am not tha tmodest if my wife wish to enter the bath while I ..... LOL
But I suppose I will need a nice finger grab dohickus for each door.
Lastly, get me started. Do you have to have the doors to install the tacks? In other words do your doors need to be hung before you drywall? I suppose it depends on the kit and on how you install stops. IF you use stops and can get teh door in teh opening and install stops later then I would assume yu just need teh track installed. However, i suppose it would be safest to have the door to test teh track run prior to covering up with drywall.
What is Best Practices in this regard?
Our kit inlcuded the framing and the track. You do not need the door to install the track. The rough opening was wide enough that we could install drywall except for the jamb the door slides into. This gives enough room to install the door after drywalll then when you install the jamb the opening becomes 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch smaller- meaning the door doesn t slide all the way out anymore.
You will deifnitely need the finger pull!
Hafele is certainly the gold standard but our door guy said Johnson 400 was as good and the 200 was a close second.
Why look for an alternative to Hafele if you know it can't be beat, quality-wise? Price?
My problem was availability
how many builders / people build their own pocket frames as opposed to purchaising ready made frames?
Pros / Cons?
I have always thought it to be better to put a pocket in a 2 x 6 wall and to build your own frame. the 2x4 frames seems very light. Not that that should be a problem, i suppose, unless you have boys in teh house prone to roough-housing.
I have one such 2 x 6, pocket with studs on edge. It is currently in a roughed in stage and I have replaced one of the studs twice. Each time it bows in toward teh pocket by at least a 1/4 inch. This would not cause a problem with the door, but eh wall is bowed. ANd on that wall will be a vanity butted up to it and I think teh bow will be a problem with apprance of the vanity top.
Anyway, what should i have done for a frame???
I built my own frame because it was a remodel and I did not want to disturb the outside wall. There was no way I could match the texture in the drywall and it was a long wall.
more or less loks like mine. I am just having trouble with this one stud bowing in.
well one other has a twist to it butr not a problem when covered with a finished jamb
So you built out in front of a wall to house a geberit in-wall carrier? What exactly was the thinking on that?
There was existing plumbing in that wall I did not want to disturb and the Geribrit eats that whole 5.5"
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