I’ve always admired a good carpenter’s ability to seemlessly replace cedar shingles, but I’ve never had a job where I was required to do it myself.
Who would like to help pass on their knowledge of this craft to a youngster still branching out and learning all that he can about the trades?
Justin Fink – FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
Replies
There is a tool called a shingle thief.
You slide it up under shingles to hook ( on a reverse barb) the nail or cut it off.
Once the old is out, you find or cut a new replacement the right width and slide it up under the upper courses, leaving it about 1/4" below where it needs to seat finally. You drive your nails in this new one immediately below the covering shingle at a bit of an angle up - might need a nail set to seat them so close to the butt of the upper.
Then you tap bottom of new shingle to drive it up flush. The nails hike up under with it soi they never show.
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interesting...so the nail is first angled so that the head is pointing up? This way when the shingle is slid home, the nail straightens out? Do I have this right, or is it backwards?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator
1) Get all of the old shingle and it's nails out of the way. This may require the use of a shingle ripper, chisels, hacksaw blades, foul language and ingenuity.
2) Plane or shave the sides of a new shingle to make it fit the void.
3) Slide the new shingle into the void, leaving the butt about 3/4" proud of the butts on either side. Nail the shingle at an upward angle about 3/4" in from either side right below the butts of the course above.
4) Use a block of wood against the butt and knock the new shingle upward 'til the butt aligns with the shingles on either side. The new nail heads will dissapear under the upper course.
I need a valet.
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Oh, I see. I did have my nail angle wrong in my first reply to Piffin's post. Thanks for passing along the tradition guys!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator