I have a basement to finish and would like your thoughts.
I have ten feet to work with to the floor joists and will be framing the walls in and installing a drop ceiling at 8 ‘.
The walls are block. My original thought was to just use 10′ wall studs and attach to floor joists for a stronger wall frame. I would add blocking as it is 10′ high. I would then install sheet rock and the drop ceiling.
I have a few other ideas… Run 8 ‘ wall studs with a cap and run one wall stud to the ceiling every 8 ‘ or just run them all 8 ‘ and bracket top of wall to block. Any thoughts would be great.
I don’t want the studs against the block I want a gap of about 1 ” between the studs and block so I can insure a true plumb wall with air space behind and insulation in bays.
Keeping the wall at 8 ‘ would save cost and time in the framing phase so that is my best option, I just want it to be strong and last.
Edited 4/27/2002 5:38:09 AM ET by All Trade
Replies
I use mtl studs and track on basement framing. I find it to be easier and produce a better end result when working around slope in the concrete, htg ducts, etc. Usually use 2-1/2" stood off from the wall maybe an inch to make up for any wave in the foundation. Insulation made for mtl studs friction fits well till the board is hung. You might give it a try. I'd go the 10 ft and block from the wall every so often for a more rigid feel. Best of luck.
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
I'd build an eight foot wall on the floor, lift it into place and add a cleat every two/four foot or so (shoot one side into the joist, the other from beneath the top plate. I'd use a full 8' stud, one top plate and a bottom plate....treated if inspected..... NO holes or nailing into the block if it's exterior........ All you're building is a partition wall as there's no bearing. You're drop ceiling wall channel will go onto this at the desired 8'
Yeah, I have some ideas! You ##### ## ########! Your mother ######### # ### and your father ##### #### #######, sideways. And even your dog ###### ##### ###### like a possum.
Oh, framing.
Never mind.
Sorry.
unclendunc,
I just have to say thanks... a margarita, friday night and your message came together to give me the best belly laugh I've had in a while. thanks
lee
Well, thank you. I wondered if it went over everybody's head, or was too disgusting to respond to, or what. Glad to hear that it brightened your day.
I`d use 10' 1 5/8" metal studs and go floor to ceiling. Screw a peice of the trac to the back side of studs as a strong back and run a leg to the block wall every few feet. The studs are inexpensive enough that the extra 2' in length won`t make a substantial cost difference.
Good luck and have fun!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Thanks for reply's . Homeowner and I are not to into the metal studs. I like the idea of building walls on the ground then standing them up and attaching them to 10' 2x4 already nailed up to floor joists, makes for quick installation and strong. Thanks again.
metal studs make for a better job in a basement. Why be against that? Jeff "That's like hypnotizing chickens........."
I agree!!!! With metal studs you will have the best thing to hang board on, nice!! Keep that air space between wall and block, if the studs, wood or metal, touch the wall cold could transmit threw the stud and in time you will see it threw the drywall.
Regarding strength of wall....If the wall is framed without the entire top plate properly secured to framing above, it won`t make a difference whether studs are wood or metal.
Regarding speed... I have framed for many years, the vast majority of the time using wood. Metal stud framing is much quicker, espescially when working alone.
All the best!
JayJ. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Are there any windows into this basement? Any room to add windows? If so, dropping the ceiling cuts into your window space. Even if not, a higher ceiling will make a windowless room less depressing.
-- J.S.
8 windows total. He planned this out long ago and made provisions accordingly.
I have decided on framing all the way up, mainly for insulation. Never thought about that until this morning when putting together materials list.
As for the metal against wood battle.....
I think everyone has there thing and the homeowner and I prefer wood. As for faster I have used both and in this situation if metal is faster, its about 10 min. faster , so I have a theory. Unless its faster by a whole lot, then side with the homeowner.
Not to mention if you have a crew of 6 men you need six screw guns or six hammers. Everyone has a hammer.
6 guys, good gawd, that big a basement? Lunch must be fun. How do you do it? You guys show up in a bus? Must be a thing to watch. You must be like a conductor in an orchestra. I think I envy you. Not sure.
wow.__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Basement is 60' x 32 ' . I may never have to have all my men in there and I would rather not. But if it is raining the day I start and not everyone would like the day off then the situation may warrant that scenario. My point was working with metal studs requires different tools and different technics. If I am going to switch saw blades, buy a couple more screw guns and other tools just so I can frame out this basement 10 min. quicker then I have a few screws loose myself and maybe those extra screw guns I would have laying around would come in handy. I would also have to talk the homeowner out of what he feels comfortable using for that extra 10 min.
I agree, would be senseless to buy tools to do a job that can be done another way in roughly the same time. If your guys aren't used to mtl studs, it certainly would take longer going that route. You're right about the material costs, mtl is still cheaper at least here in nw oh. Working alone and being familiar with mtl I find them easier so I use them almost exclusively for bsmt work. I get better results with all that goofy soffiting found down there. I don't know about your luck, but it almost always is sunny when I've got a basement job.__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
No kidding. I think for the first time in my life though its supposed to rain all week , so I am going to be set if it does. Most likely the weather man will be wrong.
If there are any interior walls you should consider using deflection/slide track (if metal) at the top or truss clips (if wood). When the floor deflects the walls can bow and you may get squeaking. Actually the same is true for the outside walls if this is a new building. The wood will shrink and pull away from the top plate or bracing.
Good Point Archy, I will look into that. Thanks for all your help gentleman.
I would frame 8' walls bracing to masonry appx every 4' - 6' at 7' above floor (don't forget felt if using untreated lumber for bracing). This has worked well for me in the past. Metal studs are nice but more money and it sounds like you are trying to save.
Thankis for reply newter , I have decided to frame all the way up because I would rather not use solid board insulation above the walls and fiberglass in bays. Rather just stick to one type. Also makes the walls stronger and bracing would no longer be needed.
Interesting point on the metal studs being more money. I thought it was cheaper to use metal studs?
Here in the northeast metal studs are about half the cost of wood. Where are you located?J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"