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Ceiling not level enough for crown molding

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Ceiling not level enough for crown molding (post #207027)

RoyTurning on Fri, 11/02/2012 - 18:31
in

My 100 year-old house has a plaster on wood lath ceiling that slants up in one corner as it nears the stairwell. This hasn't been a problem (not noticable) but now that I want to add crown molding it will be. It's out as much as an inch over a six foot area.  

My thought is to attach wire lath with plaster washers in the worst area and slather a 50-50 mix of Structo-Lite and Mason's Mix (probably two coats), taper it off and finish coat it with drywall mud. I've had success with this method on walls but I've never had a ceiling this bad. Any advise on materials and/or process would be greatly appreciated.

I'd attach some photos but it didn't work earlier.

-A +A

If the ceilings are high (post #207027, reply #1 of 8)

by DanH in reply to RoyTurning [original] on Fri, 11/02/2012 - 18:56

If the ceilings are high enough, don't attach the crown to the ceiling, but drop it down an inch or two.


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

ceiling problem (post #207027, reply #4 of 8)

by RoyTurning in reply to DanH [original] on Sat, 11/03/2012 - 16:47

Thanks for the reply, unfortunatly the ceiling isn't high enough. I'm afraid the space showing between the top of the window trim, cap, and what will be the bottom of the crown isn't enough to fool the eye.

Roy (post #207027, reply #2 of 8)

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calvin in reply to RoyTurning [original] on Fri, 11/02/2012 - 19:27

If you can, attach some "plaster grounds" to the perimeter and taper out to what's not bad.  This will guide you trowell or knife and give you a base to fill to.  Remove and fill in.

Best of luck.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

ceiling problem (post #207027, reply #5 of 8)

by RoyTurning in reply to
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calvin [original] on Sat, 11/03/2012 - 17:02

Thanks, I'm thinking I should rent a rotary laser level and really see how far off everything is. I'm not sure if such a machine can cast a line at the very top, if so, it seems that I could screw on some plaster grounds that just kissed the laser line which would give me the perfect depth for the new plaster. Anyone out there that knows of a better way?

 

Get the level and pencil mark (post #207027, reply #6 of 8)

by DanH in reply to RoyTurning [original] on Sat, 11/03/2012 - 18:37

Get the level and pencil mark a level line about 10" down.  Then measure up from there to find where everything is and what you want to adjust.


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

Roy (post #207027, reply #7 of 8)

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calvin in reply to RoyTurning [original] on Sun, 11/04/2012 - 04:46

Out of level is not always a bad thing.  Sure, if you plan on having cabinetry up there that will show the difference, then level is a good goal.

Dips and waves are the killer.  Straighten as you can, carve out some small dips out of the molding so it sits higher.  90% of remodeling finish is fooling the eye. 

 

I have a line laser and like Dan mentions, use it for reference.  Set it up, walk around the room and measure down from the ceiling to the line and make note of the numbers (+ or -)  difference on a pc. of paper.  It's a quick way to see the variation and quickness of drop or rise.  No need to strike a line on a finished surface.  Heck, you don't even need to move furniture.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 

or... (post #207027, reply #8 of 8)

by oldhand in reply to RoyTurning [original] on Sun, 11/04/2012 - 17:04

Maybe some small profile trim at the top joint?

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