Just had a contractor install 1/2″ drywall over old plaster walls and ceiling. From the start we knew that all the trim and baseboard would be pulled off and that we’d need to add a filler “L” strip around the inside window and door casings where they meet the old jambs. The purpose is to make up for the fact that such casing would be proud the thickness of the drywall. In fact, I made a sample of the “L” strip so that they could check as they hung the drywall. Well, they didn’t use it. In reality when they pulled off the trim and baseboard some plaster (wood lath) crumbeled and they backfilled with whatever they had, and, whatever they had wasn’t the same thickness as what the old plaster was. So now the gap on the inside edge of the casings varies from 5/16ths to 13/16ths. all along a 7″ door casing. The drywall is taped, filled and sanded and they even primed it thinking that I’d be impressed. Needless to say I’m not happy. Now I’m thinking there is no solution other than to pull all the drywall off and re-do it. Since they used PL glue and screws the plaster and lath will come off too. Anyone out there with a better solution than mine?
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Roy
theres no need for an "L" shaped piece to extend the jamb to plane out with the wall surface. A flat jamb extension set back a bit for a shadow line (reveal) is the usual fix.
I taper cut the extension to match the wall surface. I scribe the cut line if wavy, straight line rip it if not.
Safest is to use a track saw or shoot board, freehand rip on a table saw is not so safe for those unfamiliar. Just the outermost edge of the extension needs to be smooth as you'll create another reveal there to the casing.
you can also plane to the wavy line.
comprende?
Solution to drywall over plaster problem
Yes, I understand what you said. I don't really know why I always (I've only done 4 or 5 rooms this way) used the "L" approach other than I felt that it helped to hide any minor gaps that might present themselves. Still, your solution is a whole lot easier than taking all that drywall and plaster off and shimming the studs to the proper plumb in order to accept DW to line up with the jambs.
I'm thinking I'll scribe and use a bandsaw, clean up the cuts with a low-angle block plane. Then attach with glue and brad nailer.
Thanks again for the speedy and well informed reply.
Roy
Roy
You are welcome.
Thanks again Calvin
This was a lot easier than I expected. I did scribe the new extensiions as you stated and used my bandsaw to cut to the scribe lines, cleaned them up with block plane. At first I was concerned because even though I was able to match the new jamb extensions to the wall the wall would still be uneven. How would the new casing fit without leaving gaps? But with temporary clamps and trim screws it was flexible enough that it didn't show any at all.
Roy
the more you run into the more experience you gain to enable you to correct problems that arise in remodels.
One of the best complements you can get on a no big change remodel is when someone thinks your work is original.
On occasion, the casing edge around the perimeter at the wall needs work, either added to or taken away. Having done the extensions, I'm sure you can handle that as well.
Now, just make sure no one covers your work with blinds or drapes.