I'm just about ready to sand my reclaimed 3/4 inch oak floor. Is there a way to sure the sawdust, to keep the color, to make a filler?
Do you want to fill voids such as nail holes etc. or do you want to fill the grain?
looks like o.p. really was anxious for that info....
password. kept getting a message to contact some administroatio so it's takin all this time to do that!!
sorry about that - issues with logging in. very few nail holes - mostly spaces between the 5 to 17 inch boards. the tolerance on many are up to, i guess, 3/16 to a 1/4+ off.
Basically, I don't want "dark" areas between the boards if possible.) Poor picture from the so caled 'smart phone'. some of the areas that look like spaces are 'shadows' due to the light direction and height difference of the indiviual boards.
I've seen some youtubes where the guy has something that looks like a think paste he goes over the whole floor.
any help is apprescaited. (weird, no spell chick on this site - so please excuse my poor grammar.)
You can certainly make custom hole filler with cobinations of fine sawdust, glue, water and paint to tint. Or use ready made filler with custom tint. It's easy to make a palet of different color fillers to make it more real.
The paste over the whole floor thing is probably about filling the tiny pores, not as popular as once was and a waste of time mostly, IMHOP. Sounds like you want to gap fill along side poorly fitting boards. There are no good simple answers here but the basic picture is that probably it won't work. There are exceptions but generally floor boards will expand and contract enough over the course of a year to squeeze out the filler. Sounds ugly, no?
If I'm getting this right, 5-17" wide boards? Such wide boards are not usually used partly due to the expansion/contraction issue. I'd recommend a little more research for you, just bear in mind you are [it sounds like] behind the 8 ball.
I've had log in issues myself so don't feel too bad there.
Thanks. Sorry, the boards are 5-17 " long not wide. Yes, many are "poorly fitting" bad tolerances I guess. I'm just a dumb H.O. (better home maintenance man- there is always something to do on this 1920's house!) so they look too short to warp though on the longer pieces I did notice a few. I used a hand floor nailer which in many cases fixed the issue.
Oh boy, yes I learned the hard way on expansion/contraction. The flooring I put in the LR by the wood stove really dried out.
If I were to use 'fine' saw dust, what type of glue is recommended?
If you are going the cover the whole surface route I'm sure you will be better served by a store bought commercial paste filler. The home made filler is suited more for spot filling nail holes and other smaller areas.
I've always used past wood filler mixed with very fine sanding dust to fill the grain and very fine gaps. Your gaps appear to be a little large for that. How did you end up with those? There should be Plastic Wood type product that should match your oak pretty closely. You need to be sure that the gaps are filled all the way to the bottom.
Is there a brand of wod filler you think is better? the big box stores by me see to carry whatever they can get cheapest.
For the gaps, I guess it just my bad picking of boards in the area after I had nailed them down.
I used paste filler over my entire floor prior to staing and it looks fantastic 10 years later
If you got a name, I'd apprecate it.
Go to a REAL paint store and tell them you want a paste wood filler. They may also call it a pore filler. It is a very thin product you wipe over the whole floor and sand off. It will fill the oak poors and small gaps and leave you with a very smooth finish. The large gaps would have to be treated differently. I got mine at a benjamin moore store but I don;t know if that was the actual brand
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