I have installed several hardwood floors but am still learning about finishing them properly. I recently installed a doug fir floor and finished it with water-based poly. I used up a partial can first that had been opened the previous year (and kept in a heated space) but evidently did not mix thoroughly enough the contents. As I reached the bottom of the can, I was then cutting in and noticed it had become a bit viscous. Foolishly I kept brushing out the contents, thinking that it would dry clear, as had the rest of the poly. No such luck; it dried exactly as it had gone on: milky.
I tried some hard pole-sanding after the initial coat and hoped successive coats would mask the discoloration but no such luck and now I feel the big dummy for having continued to add coats.
Any recommendations for how to address the problem at this point? We are talking about maybe 15 feet total along the perimeter, extending maybe 10-12 inches maximum from the wall.
Can I use an edger and take down the milky portions down to bare wood and then feather it in with a hand sander to the rest of the floor? I’m guessing the old/new junction will stand out but hopefully will look better than it does currently.
Thanks.
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I would be concerned the heat from sanding would drive the finish into the floor.
You might try scraping the still new finish of, then attempt blending with a sander.
You didn't really mention if you have coated the rest of the floor with the new finish.......
The entire floor has four coats of poly. Completed the third week of May. I moved onto another job and came back to inspect and found what I've decribed.
I have used the edger on a floor that had been urethaned many decades ago and it easily removes the coating, with frequent paper changes. So I have no doubt that I CAN (and should) remove the unwanted finish from the perimeter. The question really is how will it look, when feathered into the main portion of the floor?
Sure, I can proceed on instinct alone but instinct, in this instance, did not serve me well, which is why I'm asking for experienced opinions about addressing this minor (I hope) issue before I put the baseboard to the walls.
Thanks for chiming in.
Consider your options carefully
Antyime you partially remove one area of finish and apply a new one adjacent to existing areas you run the risk of not blending the repair well. Much depends on existing layers of penetrating stain, sealers, & layers of film finishes. Many of these layers react not only with the wood fibers, but cure via atmospheric condtions at the time of application as the liquid finish changes to a solid. It is usually best to strip the floor and finish it properly.
If you attempt to blend a new finish, it is reasonable to harbor an expectation of compromise. If your are not an experienced professional floor finisher, then you can expect a compromised finish. For example, a professional floor finishers will not typically use old or questionable film finishes on their clients floors.
Remember, floor finishing is an art. If your not an experienced artist, then your art is likely to be inferior. If you're not willing to compromise your expectation of an artfully finished floor, then have a professional strip the floor and finish your floor properly. This way you will be paying for an expectation that is clearly articulated (in a written) contract by you or the finisher. Any sub-par result is to be resolved by the finisher.
BTW, what specific water based film finish did you use that resulted in cured milky finish? Also, how did you apply the finish? Usually a milky finish is the result of trapped moisture. This can happen when a water based film finish is applied too heavily in places. Depending on the mil thickness, this moisture will eventually work its way out --or at least improve over time. This doesn't mean it will ever be "right". However, you might monitor it over some time before deciding your best course of action.
I applied Last-n-Last (formerly Zipguard) urethane around the perimeter with a brush as i didn't want to risk picking up any dust/dirt by inadvertently jamming the foam applicator against the wall. I am quite confident I brushed everything out well enough, as the milkiness only occured as I neared the bottom of the can. I gave the can a good mix but probably should have "boxed" it with another can. When I moved to another floor, with a new can, I did the same thing with no issues. I applied nothing (in the way of conditioner) under the four coats of poly. Finished the floor initially with 120 grit.
I don't see the milkiness "disappearing" over time really, though it would be nice in an alternate universe.
As far as redoing the entire floor, that is out of the question. I have always told the clients if they want a perfect job they should hire a pro floorer (as I am primarily a finish/rough carpenter) but they have been happy with what I've done so far. There is no contract as I have been working on an off for them for two years now and our arrangement is a very informal one. Generally speaking the floors came out well (not a questionable finish) and I think I can get out of this okay, providing I can find a way to feather it in. Because the milkiness occured around the edges, and the light is less, the overlap may hopefully be less obvious.
Really, I'm hoping someone has experience with what I propose-or doesn't mind going out on a limb and proposing something. And can tell me what tools I should use-whether hand or electric-and how far onto the existing finish to take the sanding, etc.
Thanks for the input
Sounds like your client got what they paid for. Since you used only top coat finish, you should have less risk blending any of your sanding. I'd use a Festool rotex 150 to feather in 'till you think you have removed the issue. Work through the grits for more effecient sanding. Start course (say 60) and end up with a 150. I'd use the Brilliant. Try brushing a test area to see how it blends. Check your results in the morning.