Two years ago my plumber installed this sink.
I’m guessing he didn’t think ahead about the bubbles in the silicone being visible as part of the final product. Neither did I. The sealant he used was the type that went on white and turned clear as it cured. When my wife did notice it, it already looked like this:
I don’t have enough faith in this particular plumber to bring him back. I’ll fix it myself. I’m worried that in fixing it, the glass will break or scratch, and this model is no longer available for import. So the questions are:
A. How to separate the bowl from the top without harming either; and
B. How to reinstall so that the sealant doesn’t have the bubbles and other imperfections.
Thanks. Jim
Edited 7/7/2002 12:53:34 PM ET by Cloud Hidden
Replies
perhaps you could work a tiny wire in where the two meet, and pull it back and forth , to cut the caulk, I'm thinking of an unwound guitar string that could work, there may be some bath people out there who know of a solvent to cut the stuff?
no turn left unstoned
I like Panama Red's idea about the guitar string. Working it in with a solvent, denatured alcohol maybe, might expedialte things. The same solvent will also remove any remaining caulk.
When you reattach it you might want to use a clear epoxy adhesive. Just don't screw it up. You wont get through the epoxy wit a guitar string.
Suggestion: before reattaching the sink, get a few scraps of glass and do some testing/practicing before using it on the sink.
- WebTrooper -
"BTW, Cool Sink - DON'T use a jack hammer!"
I think you would be best to leave it alone, But if you must then the wire will be the best way. What ever you use bubbles will be there. Maybe glass fusion would be the cleanest joint. That sink was $600? and the top $300? are you sure you hate bubbles?
Good point NigelUSA,
Installed 2 years ago and just recently noticed the bubles? I wouldnt sweat it too much. I think the methods would work but "work" is the functin term there - lots of it. Personally, I'd get over it.
- WebTrooper -
Decisively undecided
Noticed the bubbles two days later on my wife's first visit after the installers left. She's hated it from that day. Just getting to the top of the to-do list after two years living there. Why at the top of the list now? Be/c I just got a digital camera so I could post pix here rather than only describe it.
One other reason to change it is that some of the air bubbles are at the edge and allow water to wick under, where bacteria does its thing and turns funky colors and cannot be cleaned...
Wrap the guitar string around a stick at each end so it doesnt cut into your fingers.
Wait, I have another idea. If a good quality paint remover disolves the caulk you might be able to work it out with a stiff brush. Semipaste type, marine quality stripper. Don't bother with SripEze. I can wash my face with that junk. Look for "marine applications" on the label an it should be strong enough.
Good Luck
- WebTrooper -
Cloud
It might be worth checking with a glass shop for any info on re-attaching the basin they may have some suggestions or possibly someone that builds aquariums.
On a side note that concrete shower we discussed a month ago is now finished I took some photos but they were to dark so I will be gioing by this week sometime and try to get some better photos. It turned out great and the owners have had a glass panel etched with an underwater scene by a local artist installed it has really finished the shower off well but it is making it tough to get a photo
Kevin
You said that the plumber used a "silicone" that was white and turned clear after a few days. In my experance your plumber did not use a 100% SILICONE, but a silicone latex caulk. Remove by any of the above methods, and reattach with GE silicone II or other 100% silicone products.
David
I missed that part. yep, yep!!!!
Leave it alone. A steel wire will cut the caulk fine.
But, you will never get a bubble-free seal without
using a vacuum pump or some very unobtainable and expensive
low-viscosity silicone compound. Plus, you have to make
a dam and basically cast it in place. Any other way, you
will probably just get bubbles again.
I would also leave well enough alone.
The wife might not go for this either...
If you get it up, and clean the caulk off. maybe you could take it to a glass shop and have them lightly sandblast the uderside of the rim. This could make it opaque enough to not see new bubbles when you put it back down. Would change the look of the sink a bit.
Thanks, all. I'm thinking...
>> This could make it opaque enough ...
I'd test it on some scrap first. In my experience, when you wet ground glass it becomes a lot less opaque. I'm talking about the silicone wetting the glass when it's first applied, not the water in daily use.