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Hanging drywall on brick

Hjnter's picture

Does anyone have suggestions for hanging sheetrock on an interior brick wall?  This is in an old row house in which the lath and plaster was removed, exposing the brick.  The owner wants to brighten up this small room, but doesn't want to paint the brick. 


Thanks.

(post #68900, reply #1 of 8)

     If the brick is flush and plumb, you can attach the drywall to the brick directly.  Apply drywall adhesive a couple inches in from the perimeter of the panel.  Then apply an "S" pattern in between from top to bottom.  Fasten the sheet every 24" on the edges with hardened nails.


     If the wall is out of plumb or bumpy, fur it out with DWC (drywall channel).  Shoot the DWC into the wall close to (not in) the mortar joints every 24".  Use a power actuated tool, such as a Hilti DX35 shot-gun.   Use 1" concrete pins.  Shim as needed.  Then fasten the sheet with self-tapping  or hi-lo drywall screws (no drywall adhesive necessary).


Edited 11/18/2005 6:42 pm ET by JourneymanCarpenterT

-T

(post #68900, reply #2 of 8)

If you glue you'll wreck the chance for someone to expose the brick again.  I vote for furring.

(post #68900, reply #3 of 8)

If it is sound and flat, I would just three coat plaster over it.

 

 


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(post #68900, reply #4 of 8)

I would just fir and shim it out with 1/3's


 


 


 


 


When in doubt, get a bigger hammer!
When in doubt, get a bigger hammer!

(post #68900, reply #5 of 8)

Another vote for plaster.

Bill

(post #68900, reply #6 of 8)

     If the brick is nice, and you want to preserve it, you could use wood furring strips (1x3s will also work).  This might also be a good idea if you don't have a power actuated tool.  Or if DWC isn't sold in your area.  Instead you can use a hammer drill and Tapcons.


     Using a twist bit, predrill holes that will land on mortar joints.  Apply construction adhesive to the back.  Stick the strip up on your layout, and hammer drill through the mortar joints.  Shim as needed.  Then screw in your Tapcons flush with the surface.


     Wood furring strips can also be fastened with power actuated fasteners, hardened nails, or expansion anchors.  I recommend Tapcons however, because you wont risk blowing out the brick like you would with a shot-gun.  They also won't bend, and provide better holding power as opposed to hardened nails.  Further, the screws may make shimming easier.


     Another advantage of wood furring strips, is they come in as little as 5/8" thick.  This will take less space away from the room.  Come to think of it, this would probably be better than using DWC in this situation.


Edited 11/18/2005 6:41 pm ET by JourneymanCarpenterT

-T

(post #68900, reply #7 of 8)

Use joint compound applied to small blobs to the sheet & press to the brick, Add a few cut nails to hold untill the compound dries. It holds as well as glue & always be removed w/ water & a good scraper if needed.

(post #68900, reply #8 of 8)

For speed and a better job get some 1 5/8", 25 gauge studs and track.  The job will be level and you won't have to use 500 shots, pins, pops from the pins etc., basically you'll save yourself time, money and aggrevation.