Am considering residing my own place with this product. Haven’t seen the real thing applied, only in pictures. Does it look like the real deal?
Also what can I expect to pay for this material?
Appreciate any help you can give me.
Am considering residing my own place with this product. Haven’t seen the real thing applied, only in pictures. Does it look like the real deal?
Also what can I expect to pay for this material?
Appreciate any help you can give me.
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Replies
I've put up some. It looks fine if it's to be painted. I haven't tried or seen the prestained.
It comes in 6", 8" and 12" widths so you have to watch your spacing.
It's not tapered like cedar shingles so you have to nail a starter strip at the bottom of the first course to start the taper. (I used pressure treated lath).
The job I did was a couple of years ago and the price for mtl. was about $180 per sq. if I recall. A bit more than what I could get #1 tight grain unprefinished WRC shingles for in my area.
I should add there are also shingle "panels" but I have no history with them. They would probably go up pretty fast...
Edited 10/17/2004 12:29 pm ET by Notchman
Hi Tod. I used them on the 2nd floor of my house. They're significantly more expensive than cedar, and harder to work with. However, I believe they'll hold paint longer, and that was my primary goal. It's been five years now, and they still look great. As a bonus, woodpeckers don't seem to like them at all. I'd use them again.
Andy
Arguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
I am in the process of residing my home. I have the individual hardishingle but have not put them on. When you used them what did you use under the first course? Hardi suggests putting up a piece of 9 1/2" lap siding under the first course? All I have is 8 1/2" (lap siding the lower portion of the house). It seems that with a 1/4" piece of lathe plus 1/4" lap siding plus the hardishingle the first course is going to be pretty thick. I would appreciate your comments. Thanks, Bill
I divided the HardiPlank lap siding on the first floor from the ShingleSide on the second floor using a 2x8 water table that runs around the house just below the window sills. My ShingleSide flares out that inch and half at the bottom, a design choice that doesn't help you one whit.
What you suggest sounds as if it should work. Try a sample area and see if you like the result.
Andy Arguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
Got a pic? Matt
I don't, because I don't want to learn how to transfer photos from my wife's camera to the computer to the internet. Life's far too short for that sort of nonsense. Stop by some time though, and we can drink a beer and take a walk around the house.
AndyArguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
I'm building a few houses that are to have these Hardi shingles up in the gables only, above a band somewhat similar to what Andy is talking about. My boss said he wanted me to use a stain (or maybe it's a paint) called "worn reins". Anybody heard of it and know what brand it is? It is kind of a brownish color. I think the idea is to make the hardi shignles look like slightly weathered cedar. I asked our paint sub and she did not know. He showed me a pic and it looked pretty good. Matt
I used them on a house built in 1999/2000. I'm very happy with them. They look much more like real shingles than vinyl, and from 50 feet away will fool most people, but up close they look a little too perfect to be wood. But, they look really good to me, nonetheless.
They come in three sizes, and I gave the contractor the proportions of each size so he could mix them in appropriately. He started on the back of the garage since it was his first time using them. He arranged them in a regular pattern according to the proportions and they looked too regular. I told him to break up the pattern, which he did on the rest of the house and they looked fine. Windows and doors break up the pattern naturally, too.
Here's what they looked like, before and after paint. http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=35025.3
Hi Tod,
My husband and I are using the Hardie 48" straight edge panels.
They do not come primed, and Hardie recommends that they be primed. We then stained with 2 coats of Mason's Select cedar stain. The stain has to be applied before the singles are installed. Finishing them took us somewhat longer than we had expected.
A lathe strip is applied first, then a 9-1/4" wide plank starter course and finally the first course of shingles.
It is some pricey stuff - $899 for a pallet that is 2 squares. It has to be purchased by the pallet.
I think it looks good, although it's not exactly the same as wood. I think it has advantages over wood. Our property burned recently in a wildfire, and no doubt will again, so the fire resistance is a big thing for us.
kestrel
One other Q - what is the exposure on these various Hardy shingle products?Matt
Hi Matt,
Hardie recommends a 7" exposure, but we used 6-1/2. We bought the tiles a pallet at a time, and there was some variation between pallets. The first has the tallest slots cut out and the 7" looked a little close.
kestrel
It certainly looks nice on your home.
Thanks for the feedback. I think we will reside our home with it.
Tod
Hi Tod, Thanks for the compliment. I think you will be happy with it if you decide to use it. I don't know how much more it costs, but prestained would be much faster.
kestrel
If you hadn't told us, looking at that picture, that stuff looks just like cedar
That's a good looking product with that stain applied
Thanks for sharing that,
I didn't realize it could look so good
How did you go about all that staining and did you prime the stuff before
you stained?
Edited 10/24/2004 6:03 am ET by butch
Hi butch,
Thanks for the complement. Yes, we primed the front, back and all the slots. The supplier that we purchased the stain from was pretty insistent that they should be primed on all edges, though I don't see that on the stain can, or on Hardie's site. They do not come factory primed, and they are rather blotchy looking. Any inconsistency will show through the stain if the shingles are not primed. There is a close-up below of an unprimed shingle.
I rolled the primer on and brushed the slots. The slots taper in from the back to the front, so they have to be painted and the stain touched up from the back. My husband, being an artist at heart, did all the staining with a brush. The stain is applied fairly heavily so that it partly fills in the groves on the face of the shingle. Also varying the amount of stain applied to different parts of the shingles gives them a more woodlike appearance. There is a close-up shot of a shingle below showing the stain and texture of the shingle surface.
The stained shingles have to lay flat until they are dry. The second coat of stain is applied and they again lay flat until dry. You can make the appearance as light or dark as you want, by just varying the amount of stain. For darker look, a third coat of stain can be used. Mason's Select also makes several other colors.
I'm also attaching a shot of the process - from right to left they are unprimed, primed, one coat of stain and two coats of stain.
When we installed them, we coated all the cut edges with Mason's Select.
kestrel
<Also varying the amount of stain applied to different parts of the shingles gives them a more woodlike appearance. There is a close-up shot of a shingle below showing the stain and texture of the shingle surface>
I think that trick you describe is what makes your shingles look so "authentic"
You said you flood the surface, then I assume you take a rag and wipe off from
different areas of the shingle to give it this affect?
Inquiring minds want to know?
Hi butch,
The shingle has to lay flat. The pigment in the stain puddles into the texture of the shingle, creating a wood grain effect. This type of finish is more like a semi-transparent paint rather than a typical wood stain. The appearance is controled by adding stain, not wiping it off.
A light coat of stain is brushed on first. Immediately go back over the shingle and add stain to parts of the shingle to create some darker areas. Always brush with the grain and apply stain from the top to the bottom in full length brush strokes. Any stops and starts with the brush will show. Be carefull not to allow excess stain to puddle at the lower edge of the shingle, as it will flow back up the shingle and create a dark edge. You can always darken the color, but you can't make it lighter, without repriming and starting over.
Allow the first coat to dry at least 2 hours depending on humidity and temperature. Leave the shingles laying flat during that time. The second coat can go on heavier to achieve the color desired. Holding the brush perpendicular to the shingle will remove stain, and holding it nearly flat with the shingle will deposit more stain and make it darker.
Since only the bottom 7" of shingle will show after installation, errors made in the upper portion won't be visible, except the parts behind the slots.
After the second coat, double check the slots and bottom edge and touch up any spots where the primer still shows. The rough texture makes it easy to miss spots. Immediately wipe off any stain that gets on the face of the shingle during the touchup with a rag.
After the shingles were dry to the touch, we stacked the on end against a wall, but held them apart from each other with roofing nails because they will stick to each other, even though they feel dry.
Inspect the shingles before priming for defects or scratches, as they will show when the stain is applied. A few bad shingles can be used up in areas where you don't need the full shingle. We received one pallet that had been unbanded and the shingles had had some rough treatment. We got a refund for quite a few of them.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
kestrel
What was the brand of primer you used?ThanksMatt
Hi Matt,
We used Benjamin Moore Fresh Start interior/exterior 100% acrylic. We also used Hardie soffit that comes preprimed, so we had our shingle primer tinted to that Hardie color.
kestrel
hi kestrel...
just wondering how much time you guys spent priming/staining...
Hi oak,
I didn't keep track on a total. About 20 shingles a day is a fairly full day. It rained an awful lot this year, so we did some inside stuff and of course goofed off.
kestrel
Hi Kest,
Just curious...did you consider dipping them and wiping/brushing off the excess? 20 shingles a day would drive me bonkers.
Todd
Oh yes todd -- It's a bonkers situation, but I look at it as a once in a lifetime thing. If it ever needs to be refinished, it's gonna be sprayed.
Dipping isn't a method suggested by Mason's Select, and I think it would be awfully hard to control the end result. We considered spraying, but that would have cost a bunch for good equipment. Anyway, we survived it. Only a few to go.
kestrel
You paid $899 for two (2) net squares of Hardishingle planks? Without a factory finish on it?
I have been quoted about 75 cents per lineal foot for factory finished fiber cement clapboard siding, in a 7-1/4" (6" exposure) width. That comes to $1.50 per net square foot.
Your price looks to be 300 percent of that, and it is for product you have to finish.
What is wrong here?
Hey Bob,
What is wrong here?
Nothing. I think clapboard here at HD was more than your cost, but I really didn't pay much attention to it. I like the look of shingles.
The shingles also give double coverage, which clapboards don't. For fire resistance, that is valuable.
I knew we could build cheaper, but that's not what we are trying to do.
kestrel