The plastic handle on my miter saw broke just above its base that is screwed to the motor body. I have it wrapped with a couple of heavy rubber bungee type cords. The handle is no longer available from the manufacturer (Delta). I would like to epoxy it back together and/or wrap it with a heavy duty tape. The handle is in the verticle position so I thought a tape wrapped around the motor housing and the outer edge of the handle might work. Can anybody recommend a tape….maybe something that has a little stretch to it? It’s a good saw so I would prefer to fix it instead of throwing it away.
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You might want to look at "Gorilla" brand tape (by the Gorilla glue folks). I've not actually used it, but they claim it's super-duper vs ordinary duct tape.
Gorilla tape is good, but gaffers tape is way better for this application, it's cloth, high friction heavy duty adhesive tape. Gorilla tape is just a thicker and better adhesive version of standard duct tape. Gaffers tape is similar to friction tape, but very heavy duty and is made to be handled without leaving tar on your hands, it's great stuff.
Anything On A Roll...
...that peels off then gets stuck in place usually is a disappointment over time. Adhesive's the common denominator when age & use cause it to fail, then fabric reinforcement moves leaving adhesive residue behind. Gaffers' tape of all the products out there would be best choice among them yet kinda pricey.
I've seen a product meant for repairing plumbing & stuff that's fabric reinforced - maybe fiberglass? - bedded in some kind of epoxy. Usually black, maybe 3/4" - 1" wide, in the plumbing section most hardware stores. I'd superglue the broken piece(s) in place then use this other stuff to do a good wrap-around, kinda like a permanent broken bone cast.
Alternate: if broken handle is hollow you might be able to fashion an internal splint from a couple of bent nails. Pack both ends of the void with JB Weld epoxy, insert splints then assemble as best you can. Tape / wire everything up secure for 24 hours & you're done.
If you can post a pic or two of what you're dealing with it may help us. Engineering fixes depends a lot on how stress caused broken thing to fail.
I have a Delta saw, maybe mine's (pic attached) like yours? Switch & wiring inside handle complicates things some if future repairs are expected.
Delta Miter Saw
My model is 36-220. Handle looks similar to yours but mine is prependicular to motor housing and parallel to blade. Does yours pivot? I can see the wiring inside my handle so doing anything inside the handle probably wouldn't work. I'll check out the Gaffers stuff as several other responders also mentioned it.
Pipe wrap tape
I'd use pipe wrap tape. If you can find it use 10 mil vinyl and wrap twice. 20 mil is now the standard and is great for wraping pipe joints but is harder to use for repairs. It doesn't creep or get sticky and is designed to last forever and be waterproof.
Polyesther boat epoxy, fiberglas drywall tape.
Dip the drywall tape into the epoxy, then wrap and let cure. Do a second layer.
I even fixe a 10 ft section of split pvc pipe that way and has held for years.
Not really relevant in this case where you need strength, but for simply repairing/covering grips and handles I like "hockey tape" -- the stuff they sell to wrap hockey stick handles. It's a thin cloth tape similar to old-fashioned medical "adhesive tape", but it's not sticky on the hands. It does need to be refereshed fairly regularly, though, since it's so lightweight.
x-treme tape
I wouold try this tape. It only stickes to itself and stretches like hell. In fact it is used to clamp odd parts that are difficult to clamp otherwise and wont leave a residue.
http://www.xtremetape.com/
Self fusing silicone tape is pretty good. I used it on my leather covered steering wheel where the leather wore through. I bought the cheap harbor freight version, but I use McMaster Carrs version at work, it's a lot higher quality. As usual, they don't advertise the brand name, but if you ask they will tell you, it's not a secret. That's about the only thing I don't like about McMaster Carr, what a great company. I order ups ground, get it next day everytime.
X-treme tape
I went to the web site and watched the video. Do you think it will work well if put under stress, which is what will happen when the saw handle is pulled down to make the cut?
I have no idea because I haven't seen your saw or the break.
HOwever, if you feel there is considerable stress on the part during operation, then I wouldn't rely on any type of repair (except those using original manufacturer's equipementt) for safety reasons. Since that doesn't sound like an option; ditch it. IMO it isn't worth the risk of a repair becoming suddenly unhinged during operation and causing who knows what to happen.
Use this opportuity to have your wife buy you one of those expensive Kapexs. Tell her your life depends on it.
Deadnuts
I'm sure my wife would buy me the Kapex....even if my life didn't depend on it. But, it would carry more weight if it came from you because I have told her how helpful you have been providing advice and guidance on my DIY projects. If you're willing I will PM you her email address to you.
Apparently you've got a good woman. Given the price tag, most wives would throw a roll of duct tape your direction and say "deal with whatcha got". Either way t I'm not gonna risk getting in the middle of that potential mortgage payment.
Yes, I do
Is a Kapex really worth it at over twice the price of the saws I see most contractors using?
Hobby use:
Unless you use it over 300 hours a year, $1500 for the same thing one can get for $80 at HF (plus an hours tune up time and adjustment), is a suckers game (or narssistic indulgence), IMO. Better to make a donation of the difference to Habitat if you have $1300 extra ?
now, that's a good joke
junkhound wrote:
$1500 for the same thing one can get for $80 at HF (plus an hours tune up time and adjustment), is a suckers game (or narssistic indulgence), IMO.
A Festool Kapex and a HF mitre box are the "same thing" like a BMW M5 is a Hyundai Accent.
depends on what you mean by "hobby"
I woodwork (mostly craftsman-style furniture); I'm redoing our whole house with custom craftsman millwork, including 24 1 over 2 panel doors (thanks to the domino 700); I'll reside with cedar. I'll use the Kapex until they wheel me out of here. So, at 43, I figure I've got 40 more years if I'm lucky of active woodworking. $1500 over 40 years is pretty cheap.
make it work...
I've had good luck fixing broken tool housing parts with PC-7 expoxy which is thicker than JBweld but but not as stiff as putty type epoxys. Sometimes I will bury reinforcement in it such as hose clamps, wire, etc. If it is a clean break you might carefully bond it with clear epoxy then reinforce it by building up with the heavier bodied stuff.
Some of the epoxy tapes look promising but I haven't tried them. The silicone tapes I've tried have been disappointing but must have a place?
Let us know what your experience is....
Another Thought
I was wondering if a ratcheting strap might work...alone or in conjunction with epoxy and tape. Some of the epoxys say they work with 'most plastics'.....will have to research to see if mine is one of the 'mosts'.
Made It Work...So Far
I bought a ratcheting hold down strap. Before I tried epoxy I figured I should put the strap on.....kind of like doing a dry fit before the final glue-up. Well the strap is holding so tight that there is absolutely no play or wiggle to the handle. I'm debating now whether to even take it apart to apply epoxy. The strap is double layered so should be plenty of strength and it is wrapped around the motor housing, to which the handle is attached, and the outer perimeter of the handle.
Do be wary of distorting something (such as the motor housing) from having the strap too tight.
DanH
Good advice. Thank You. Motor Housing is metal. I did have to sneak up on the tightness on the plastic handle in order not to overtighten.
Made It Work....But For How Long
I epoxied it and added a web strap that goes around the motor housing and outer perimeter of the handle. The handle is attached to the motor and is fixed in the vertical position. The handle has 2 halves....I assume so that the switch can be installed and the wiring run to it. Only half of the handle is actually attached to the motor housing. The other half of the handle is attached to the fixed half with screws. When I pulled the handle away to apply the epoxy it was pretty obvious that this design was kind of weak and woud eventually crack as the spring is pretty strong and requires a good amount of pressure on the handle to lower the blade to the work. I wonder if Delta realized the design flaw and decided to cut their losses early by stopping the manufacture of these weak handles.
I'm sure I don't have a very good sense of how this handle is shaped or how it's broken, but for something in stress like that I'd seriously consider wrapping it with a layer or two of fiberglass/epoxy (perhaps after first "tacking" the pieces together with epoxy). Then cover that with light tape to provide a smooth surface to the hand.
(Hint: Prepare the fiberglass "bandage" on a piece of waxed paper, vs trying to apply fiberglass and epoxy separately to the handle.)
my strategy
I've got that same old Delta saw, the "sidekick" with an integrated folding stand. Really want to upgrade to the Kapex. My wife was not thrilled about the $1400 price tag for my hobbyist work ("all of your woodwork and trim work has been great so far with the old saw."). I let her know the switch is sticking and the saw doesn't shut off immediately sometimes. That did it. She wants me to have all 10 fingers (also worked for getting a Sawstop cabinet saw). Just waiting for the next 10% off sale.
Good News
She saw the light. Isn't it interesting that we all wory about paying a lot for a good safe tool and not the cost of a trip to the emergency room or the long term harm that can result from poor dust collection equipment.
Epoxy or .......
FWIW, I wouldn't bother with tape, except to hold a repair in place while the epoxy cures.
But, first I would google 'used "your model number" saw' and see if I can find a donor for parts. :)
Good luck.
Ratchet Strap
The ratchet strap has it snug and secure with no play at all. I've been searching for years with no luck. Calvin had directed me to his tool supplier who did have the whole assembly but I did not act on it when I should have and now the supplier is out of business. I did have to buy a slider a couple of years ago for a one time project......it is from Sears and not pro-grade but got a good 'no frills' review from WOOD magazine. The price was right and it has performed well......don't know how it would stand up to daily use but that's not a requirement for me. As others have mentioned, broken handle is a common problem for this saw and I've seen lots of google posters that have the same issue and who are looking for a replacement part. I figure $500 - $700 for a good slider and less than half that for a good non-slider. Then there is always my faithful manual miter box.
Gaffers tape is awesome! I've used it for quite a number of projects. The tape has very strong adhesive properties and is very resistant to heat.
e Bay or e Replacement
There is one on e Bay today, 1/18/16 for about $150.00 delivered, myself I would put that towards a Bosch, Makita, DeWalt or Milwaukee miter saw, Hitachi is out there also but I do not have any of their tools so I don't speak for them.
You might also try eReplacement, I think that's the name, I just bought a slide locking nut for my Milwaukee 12" sliding miter saw.
Thank You
I epoxied the handle back together and added a web strap around the motor and handle to provide additional support. It's as solid as it was when it was new.