I hope there’s an easy way to fix this problem. The part of the ceiling shown is on an angle and the installers didn’t bother to put backing blocks behind the drywall but only nailed the angled corner bead every 16″ on the rafter supports and didn’t tape it. Of course it cracked.
I didn’t know that and when I went to repair it and put in additional screws, the screws didn’t bite into anything. So I cut a hole to see what was wrong and found the problem.
Do you think I can V out the crack, mud and tape it (paper tape) and it’ll be good? Or am I going to have to cut out a 6″ strip down the whole 4′ length so I can put backer blocks in?
Further on down by the closet (same ceiling), there’s a crack at the top of the off angle tape. Do you think I can scrape down the texture in that area, mud in a new piece of tape over the crack and fix it that way? Or am I going to have to dig out the tape over the whole 6′ length of wall and ceiling and redo it with Strait-Flex?
Sorry for the angled photo, the walls are not angled, the ceiling is.
Replies
Is that corner plastic or an attempt at flattening regular metal corner bead ?
is there a joist or beam there at the turn and rafter fastened to it?
whenever confronted with dislodged tape, I'll pull it out, stopping by cutting it with a knife and leaving the healthy tape. Metal or plastic bead is a bit more difficult but can be done the same way.
by getting the tape or bead out, along with the mud on top leaves you with a recess back to the original. This allows you to bed the new trims and NOT leave a big ass'd hump from the new build up.
plastic adjustible angle bead can be stapled, nailed or set with spray adhesive. On new work I have success with the spray and no over-taping. Matter of fact don't think I've taped over bead more than a couple times.
the spray adhesive gives you complete adhesion, not just at the crimps or nails.
messing with the texture adds another level of difficulty. Best of luck with that.
the real key is:
is the framing done properly?
take a look at trimtex for the parts.
Not plastic, they flattened down a metal bead. From what I can tell by that hole I cut, there's no framing nailer directly behind the drywall, for either the angled ceiling nor the flat ceiling that butts up to it. Other than the 16" center rafters which they nailed it to, the nearest framing piece seems to be a couple inches back.
I could cut the metal bead out but I'd have the same problem again...no nailer. But maybe wide Strait-Flex or No-Coat might work? I hope??
Or maybe wide TrimTex if I can find it, except it's edge might be a bit thicker than the other two. I thought I saw a pre-glued version the other day. Just wet it down.
I'd rather do the above than the royal pain of cutting out 2 long pieces of drywall, putting in a nailer then reinstalling everything. Then like you said I'd have butt joints to deal with. One on top, one underneath.
Do you think that despite the framing screw-up I could successfully use one of the 3 wide solutions above without adding a nailer???
thats certainly not a good place for metal bead. I'd use the adjustible angled plastic bead from Trimtex and I'd spray contact adhesive it on, maybe a staple here or there to fine tune. I'd first coat with Durabond from USG. Resulting coats I'd use timed mix, 45 or 90 perhaps 20 if it worked. Final skim. Might use bucket mud, maybe not.
even tho you have that dob texture, you need a good finish.
edit:
http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/Drywall-Corner-Tape/trim-tex-magic-corner.html
theres a PDFs install sheet you can go to
http://www.all-wall.com/c.590358/site/PDF_files/Magic_Corner_Cutsheet.pdf
Magic Bead looks pretty good, I wasn't familiar with that. The PDF indicates that if you use spray glue, you can have up to 3/8" of movement which will certainly take care of the cracking problem....WITHOUT putting in backer blocks! If I can just get that metal bead out without busting up the drywall edge.
One thing that bothered me was that they say NO setting compounds for either setting or finishing. Strait-Flex and No-Coat also say the same thing.
I rarely use standard compound, just about always use hot mud (USG Easy Sand) for everything often even last coat. Guess I'll have to change for this repair.
Does that rubber edge (or whatever it is) look weird compared to the other edges in the room after it's finished?
j
to cut the bead, I take my utility knife at an angle and tap down on it with a hammer. It cuts through the metal bead. You decide if it'll work at or near some place you have a pc of framing so you don't bash a hole.
or
take the complete stick down, 8or 10' is corner bead.
i don't maybe use magic corner specifically. My supply house has 8 or 10' sticks of a plastic angle corner that looks a hell of a lot like what I linkd to. Whatever brand, I do set it in Durabond and proceed as written b/4.
Let me take a quick look in the shop and I'll see if I can link to the specific product. I'm trying to load up to get outta town and if you have a wife, you know what I mean........
This page from the trimtex site shows what I have used
http://www.trim-tex.com/products/drywall-accessories/corner-beads/standard-corner-beads/adjustable-inside-corner-bead/
elongated holes big picture. I can't get it to load the install instructions, but you might. 8-9-10 ft. sticks.
who knows, they might have discontinued it......seems the norm for things I get to like.
i read up on the magic corner, seems like your answer. As to the look of the expansion strip? Call them for a sample or see if a supplier has one. The additive says strength, Durabond too brittle for heavy movement. Should mud set rather than spray adhesive. Safe, follow the guidelines. Chance taker.......I might be.
10 days camping in Tennessee and Alabama. Maybe some golf, hiking, some botanical gardens and the Petis bridge......off in the a.m. If you're close, we'll drop in.
j
This is another good place to use a line laser. You can get this line if long, perfect. Nothing worse than a wavy corner transition. I lay the bead to the line, either the edge or right down the center.
get it right to the line and no need to step back and say "oh fuc"
I think I'd consider just taping over with fiberglass tape.