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how to vent a woodburning stove

cutawooda's picture

Recently obtained a used Atlanta Stove. Got it for free, (if I bought the house).  So it cost me $52, 800 for the stove.

I figured I coudl use it in carpentry shop and now I need to know the best way to vent it.  Very unfamiliar with vent pipe and such but I heard from the guy I purchased the house from that it is a very good wood burning stove. I currently use a kerosene torpedo heater and it does work good but $$$$ to run it.

The outlet is a 6" hole that comes out of the back of the Stove. I want to avoid cutting a hole in my roof of my shop. It is metal and I just dont want to cut a hole in my roof. I have a thick wall to my shop since I built wood framed wall over the red iron framing. I believe it is about 14 inches thick frominside to outside finished. I have OSB walls on the inside  and yes the shop is insulated directly under the metal exterior.

Shop height is 12 sidewalls.

My confusion comes from double wall or not, Black flu pipe or not. Clearances, especial coming through the osb walls. Proper hieght above shop, joint connection and such.

Can some one guide me the right way please.

thanks

First off, check with your (post #193841, reply #1 of 13)

First off, check with your local BI about local regulations.  They trump any advice you'll get off the internet.


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

clarification pics.I wanna (post #193841, reply #2 of 13)

clarification pics.I wanna flu to the left of the window

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Did a similar project before.... (post #193841, reply #12 of 13)

Make sure that you cover the flu properly from the outside of the house.

 

I used some heavy wire mesh, this way when the smoke is not going out of this opening in the side of your house, the squirrels, rats, birds, and mice arent climbing in the other side.

 

Check these guys for a good price and fast shipping, I shopped around and this is who I used.

 

 

http://www.bwire.com/

 

Good Luck.

That is a decent stove you (post #193841, reply #13 of 13)

That is a decent stove you have. It appears to be a Taiwan  made cast iron with relief profile designed to increase surface area that is in contact with convection air moving over the surface.

 

The exhaust is in the rear so here is how I would install it.

place it so that it is 36" from the combustible wall surface.

Run a single wall haevy black 6" stovepipe horizontally to the wall. Install that with a damper in it.

 

Run thru the wall with a wall thimble.

Outside you go to the insulated pipe, either triple wall "zero-clearance" or solid pak Metalsbesos type, with SS lining.

I would do a cleanout T first out from the wall, then verticle to 3' above the roof , at least.

Most stovepipe companies market a kit with the wall thimble, cleanout T, wall brakets, support platform, and 14' of pipe.

 

I have installed a few hundrd of these

 

 

Oh Well,

We did the best we could...

clarification pics.I wanna (post #193841, reply #3 of 13)

clarification pics.I wanna flu to the left of the window

bad pic (post #193841, reply #4 of 13)

bad pic

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You can do that... (post #193841, reply #5 of 13)

... and it might be a little ugly, but so what.

I like Selkirk's Metalbestos UT insulated pipe. http://www.selkirkcorp.com/Metalbest/Product.aspx?id=208

Get the proper stove adapter. Go vertical for several feet with single wall and then convert to UT and go thru the wall. Use a tee stand outside and go up past your roof edge at least two feet. Around here you have to be two feet above anything within ten feet. 

Dan is right, check with your BI for particulars, but what you want to do is very common. One thing you want to ask about is whether you need a stove with an outside air intake, but my guess is no since you're talking about a workshop.

I would think he could hold single till the wall thimble, no? (post #193841, reply #6 of 13)

The ceiling thimble I used made up the connection from single to insulated.

To the OP, you'll definitely need insulated outside as your flue temp needs to stay high to vent properly.  Go up at least 2 ft within 10ft especially if that slope is in the prevailing wind direction-the swirl even on a low slope creates a "dead" area for proper venting.

A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.


http://www.quittintime.com/

 


An important detail to check (post #193841, reply #7 of 13)

An important detail to check is clearances and the posible need of a fire shield on the wall.  The OP should get the mfgr's specs on clearances for the stove, and if necessary be prepared to line the walls (and floor) with fireproof materials.  (In our neck of the woods even a concrete floor isn't officially "fireproof", so you need some sort of fire shield under the stove.)


Of all the preposterous assumptions of humanity over humanity, nothing exceeds most of the criticisms made on the habits of the poor by the well-housed, well-warmed, and well-fed.  --Herman Melville

Check on roof clearances too. (post #193841, reply #8 of 13)

Check on roof clearances too. Around here the triple-wall insulated chimney pipe needs to project 3' higher than any roof surface within a 10' radius.

I'd add a damper in the flue (post #193841, reply #9 of 13)

I'd add a damper in the flue pipe if the stove doesn't have one.

I agree w/ Dan ... check with (post #193841, reply #10 of 13)

I agree w/ Dan ... check with the building official. You have clearance of the stove and the flue. The flue will need to be the triple wall type through your construction. You may not be able to put it too close to the window, either. Be smart ... go to the building department and get a permit and a list of your limitations/requirements. You want to be legal and safe. You jerry rig it and you risk losing out if the shop burns down in a fire (i.e. insurance may not pay).

There ain't NO free lunch. Not no how, not no where!

As others have said, local (post #193841, reply #11 of 13)

As others have said, local bldg dept regulations will trump anything we say here, but, in general, the inspector will tell you that when you use a listed, tested product like Metalbestos or Simpson, you--and he-- will follow the manufacturer's instructions. (And, to complicate things, the instructions will also tell you that local codes take precedence over their instructions--they do this because they know that sometimes local requirements will be laid on.)

According to your description, you will also need to be careful using single-wall for the inside portion of the flue where it turns horizontal to go thru the wall--that horizontal part can't be too close to the ceiling. The flue manufacturer will probably have a diagram that illustrates just how to do it, along with details of how to penetrate the combustible wall.