I will be tiling this closet shower on the inside of the doorway and curb. There will be a glass door installed too. The existing bath has a wainscot with wooded base, door and window trim. How would you meet the tile of the shower door casing to the wooden trim materials? In other words I would frame the door with the wooden trim and but the base to it. What would be a good way to transition? Check out the attached photos for reference. Getting rid of the wainscot is not an option. Lets focus on this area only with some possible options.
Thanx, Mike
Replies
an example...
I'd pitch the curb a bit so water flows back in to the shower instead of out.
To get the tile on the jamb dead plumb so you get a good reveal with the wood casing, it might help to install the wood casing (or a mock up to act as a tile reveal guide) first. You'll need to figure the thickness of tile and thckness of thinset and allow for that so the face of the eventual jamb tile ends up flush with the inside edge of the wood casing. Although you can, you don't have to install the final wood casing to do that. You can simply nail off a straight piece of wood where the casing will go (with the proper reveal), tile to that, then install your final casing afterwards.
If you are using a multi-piece wood casing, say a trim piece, plus a backband, that makes things easier. You can install the wood casing so it properly meets the tile, then use a backband to wrap casing and transition the casing to the wood wainscot. It's easier to install trim to one finished surface at a time. With the two-piece method, you can install the casing to properly meet with the tile. Then you can install the backband to properly meet with the wainscot. The overlap of the backband-to-casing will hide any irregularties.
For the gap between the tile jamb and the wood casing, caulk it. You can find color- and texture-matching caulks that will closely match the grout used in the shower if that's something you're interested in doing.
Since you have an adjacent baseboard to deal with, you can backband the wood casing so the baseboard will butt to the backband. Ot you can use a thick plinth block at the bottom of the casing. The wood casing will butt into the top of the plinth, the baseboad will butt into the side of the plinth.
Here's an example of something similar, although the curb is different from yours. The "curb" in this shower is a raised drying off "platform" for the shower that also acts as a step to get in and out of the tub that is out of view to the right of the photo.
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Thanks Mongo for the reply this helps a lot.
Mongo gave a A+ answer
The only 2 bits I might add are that you may be able to get a little more creative with plastic molding at least where the opening meets the shower opening. I was in a hurry 10 yrs ago on my front door and just trimmed it with MDF and we're in dry Utah but it has held up okay. Either way, you should be fine since the trim looks to be all on the outside anyway.
I think he touched on sloping the base/step and you may be able to square that (and the walls) up with more backer board and thinset too (if leveling is a problem).
Oil primer and paint may be a suggestion too.
But I think Mongo and his pictures were a super start.