O.K., it’s another ceiling leveling question… but I haven’t seen anyone discuss this technique. I’ve never tried it and I don’t know if it will work.
I need to level yet another basement ceiling and there is not enough height to sacrifice the 3/4″ plus for cross-strapping under the joists.
I could sister 2x4s but there aren’t too many straight 2x4s out there.
I could sister steel studs to the joists but they’re pretty expensive these days.
Has anyone used 2″ x 2″ 20ga steel angle sistered to the joists to level a ceiling? They are straight, they have a 2″ bearing surface, they are less expensive than steel studs, they are easy to cut, and they won’t get in the way of can lights etc in the ceiling.
The questions is — will they sag or twist with the weight of the drywall, or will they hang level after they are pulled flush to the drywall with screws?
Billy
Replies
whats the span?what are u going to up there ...skate on it.
You might want to skate on 20ga, but I wouldn't.
It's sistered to the sides of the joists. I can screw it into the joist every 16", 12", whatever, so the span doesn't matter, but it's about 12 feet. 16 inches between joists.
Billy
IMHO, if you can't "sacrifice 3/4" " for strapping, go for flat and forget level.
Personally, I leave the choice up to the H.O. Most feel 3/4" isn't a big deal.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
FHB Nov 03 #158
There is an article about leveling ceilings w/ steel studs.
Thanks for all the comments about different ways to level the ceiling.
My question is whether anyone has use steel angle for this application, and whether it would work.
Billy
I use steel angle to tie together the lower corner of metal soffits. The bend is not "real" true in the pcs I have used. At 20 ga. you might need tapper screws. Run them in close to but no right on the bend.........they'll tend to walk around trying to make purchase. I would still use steel stud I think, maybe the 2-1/2" or 1-5/8ths if you could make that work.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Did you end up using this method?
I have the same situation and was going to do the same thing - my local building supplier also carries (more expensive) 18 gauge corner angle, but I wasn't sure if that was overkill or would require pre-drilling.
Thanks,
Craig
you can make your own
You can make your own drywall leveling cleats out of relatively cheap materials. See sketch.
Prefabricate these "L"'s in 8' sections by ripping the luan to width. add a bead carpenters glue and use a narrow crown stapler to fasten to 5/4" solid wood rips. They will be light weight and plenty strong enough to hold drywall; particularly with today's lightweight versions of gyp board. Probably cheaper than light guage metal studs. If you feel they need to be beefier for other types of heavier wall board finishes, then use 1/4" A/C ply rips, PL adhesive and more staples. Another bonus is that you can use regular course drywall screws.
yes it would work. but not following, 10' stick of 20ga angle is going to cost the same if not a bit more than a 16' steel stud...at leat in this neck of the woods.