Neighbors want to replace their toilet and redo floor at the same time. If they continue to use 12″ linoleum tiles, I figure I thcan pick away at the job, maybe do half one day, half the next. Especially if the subfloor is to be messed with first. It’s hard to tell if AC was used but regardless, around the toilet-uninsulated, sweating to beat the band-there’s a predicable blackened patch but the wood seems still sound, with one bubble maybe.
I’m guessing the right thing to do is, at a minimum, cut out the blackened portion and replace. I doubt if any tile will stick to a mold-encrusted wood. If I can get away with a simple patch job, terrific, because replacing the whole floor, at once, is more or less out of the question, and honestly am not sure if it’s necessary. I think any lifting of the tiles that has occured is almost certainly to do with the moisture in the room and not with the subfloor. Their fan had not been working for awhile until I replaced it recently (and discovered it’s ductwork had been routed to soffit cavity) and the toilet’s been leaking all over creation throughout the warm months.
Any advice for seam gaps, filler, etc.? Can I cut out bubbles in plywood and fill with something?
As always, thanks for everyone’s $.02.
Replies
Remember that when you're finished you want the floor under the toilet to be absolutely flat.
The tiles are probably peel and stick which never does around a toilet, stick I mean. They will have lost their stickyness and the back will be covered with pee stains. Sand down the bumpy plywoord, seal with Kilz or Binz and stick the tiles down with latex caulk applied with a notched spreader. Yes, I know it's not fine homebuilding but it will work just fine. Use some of that latex to caulk around the toilet while you're at it.
That sounds like a plan, thanks. Deal with any damaged portions by sanding first, sealing with BIN and then bedding the tile in the caulk, applied with a notched trowel. What are you using to fill in any hollows in the wood, prior to shellacing it? Will any ordinary wood filler do, something for floors?
I'd like to find a larger piece of linoleum to fit around the toilet, to keep the seams away from the potential drips. I was thinking of fitting a say, 18" X 24" piece of it and running my 12" tiles to it. If the clients go for that look. Versus having four tiles meet at a the worst spot on the floor.
What about the rest of the floor, the good part? Is there any prep for AC plywood (assuming it's AC) that will help with adhesiveness?
The other issue is that I've got a tub in the way on one side of the room (small room, 7" X 8') and the toilet on the other...wondering about how I'm going to strip the floor and snap lines versus just filling in as I pull off the old tiles.The old tiles will give me lines to follow but I'm thinking there's potential to damage new tile as old is removed.
Plan is-since I'm primarily a carpenter not a plumber or tiler-to replace the toilet after laying a few tiles underneath it and get as far as the tub. Then the next day move the tub to the other side and complete the job.
Wondering also why you would use a painter's caulk versus silicone-based to bed those tiles?