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We are installing low voltage undercabinet lighting. The puck lights do not have a long enough pigtail to make it to the basement to the remote transformer. We will splice on addt’l wire. To increase visual neatness, could we splice, and send back into the wall with no junction box? I realize a junction box is required for all 120 volt connections, but 12 volt? Certainly, we can splice under the cabinet, and that is what I am leaning toward. But it would seem strange that I can splice into low voltage, then bury it in my wet yard.
Any thoughts? Only writings on low voltage I have found deal with the likes of doorbells and phones. Your advice is appreciated in advance
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I only have the NEC 2002 Pocket Gluide to Residential. Under chapter 19, article 411, Lighting Systems Operating at 30 Volts or Less 411.4 Locations Not Permitted "Lighting systems operating at 30 volts or less shall not be installed (1) where concealed or extended through a building wall, unless using a wiring method as specified in Chapter 3..."
Chapter 3 is General Requirements and as I read it, it seems to make no distinctions between any wiring of voltages under 600 volts - i.e. there appears no subsection on "30 volts or less" or on "low voltage". However, the splices and junction box requirements are not in this section but in later sections. So, I don't have the answer, but my guess is that you need to do the full nine yards. The full NEC might allow you to make a different interpretation.
Of course, the determining authority having jurisdiction is your local electrical inspector, so you might want to check him/her out as to what is allowed.
*The wires coming out of my pucks were about 12". I cut them to about 6" and spliced w/ lamp cord underneath the cabinets. I spliced using automotive butt connectors and ran the lamp cord into the wall and down into the basement. Undercabinet wiring was "made neat" by enclosing in black plastic "automotive style" sheathing.
*At my Home Cheapo they sell longer pigtails in seperate packages to do what you're trying to do without a splice. The cheap pucks I bought have simple plug connectors on either end for their "splices," out it the open, so I can't imagine they'd be dangerous in 12 volt systems. I wouldn't bury any splice in your wall so you'd have access if (when, in the case of the cheap ones I bought) the pucks fail.
*Thanks for your thoughts. i am splicing under the cabinet. i had already chosen the butt connector. Eric, the automotive style sheathing is a great idea. I picked some up today. $5.09 and my sense of order is in tact. Thanks all.
*"[I] ran the lamp cord into the wall and down into the basement"Bad dog! That's a no-no!
*I'm no electrician but was wondering if anyone else has had a problem with low voltage lights. I HAD outside low voltage and someone knocked the top off one of the lights. The resulting short caused the transformer to overheat, meltdown and catch fire. It was plugged into a functioning GFCI which never tripped. Good thing I was home.
*i It was plugged into a functioning GFCI which never trippedIt was not suppose to trip. The GFCI ONLY is to protect against ground faults not overloads.The CB would trip if the circuit was overloaded (15 or 20 amps), but apparently this did not draw enough current for that.I am not sure, but it is large enough AND UL APPROVED then I think that the transformer should have it's own overcurrent/overtemp protection.
*Bill-Yes... I am ashamed to admit I bought it from Home Depot as a kit, lights transformer wire etc...Yes UL approved and I added nothing else to it so I assume the transformer was rated for the right amount of lights. It worked ok till the short.I guess this may be an effective way to destroy someones house while away. Short out the low voltage lights and grab the marsh mellows.