New roof time.
We plan to stay in this house (currently composition shingles), and metal caught my attention, primarily because of the idea of never having to do another roof, an idea I admit I picked up from industry promotional literature. Then I read the warranties, and the warranties basically retract everything stated in the promotional literature. In other words, if the roof doesn’t last 50 years, tough luck. Now, I’m not totally naive, and I understand that this is typical in the industry, and, for that matter, composition shingles, that no one expects to last more than 12 years are called “50 year shingles” too.
So…
If a metal roof were to last 50 trouble-free years, like the promotional material says, then it makes sense economically. And, even if something went wrong immediately, I’d be covered by the installer’s warranty, But I’m wondering which roof (composition or metal) I would wish I had if it starts to fail at 10 years. My logic here is that the composition roof is easier and cheaper to repair, easier and cheaper to install correctly in the first place, and, if it fails completely shortly after the installation warranty is up, I’ve lost much less money to replace. I’m inclined to make the conservative choice of composition shingles, expecting that I’ll get 12 years, but I would like to hear the argument for metal roofing. I guess it boils down to whether metal roofing really is a carefree material described in the promotional literature, or it is the material described in the warranties, a material the manufacturers appear to have little reason to believe will, in fact, last 50 years.
So, setting promotional literature and warranties aside, why would I choose metal over composition?
Replies
>>>why would I choose metal
>>>why would I choose metal over composition?
A metal roof should outlast shingles, but it certainily isn't forever. I'm counting on about 30 years for ours, with a re-torquing of some fasteners around the 15 year mark.
The Question of whether I recommend metal or composition shingles for any customers roof has a lot to do with style/shape of the roof and house, AND what the local climate is. AS a general rule, I expect that metal roofing is less ostly on a sq ft /year basis
I've got 5 small houses that I bought in 1978 that still have the original metal roofs that were installed in 1926 on them. I've had to replace the odd piece over the years, installed new caps on them about 1985 and have replaced a lot of the old lead head nails with screws but I never give them a thought. I lived for 23 years in a house built in the early thirties that still had the original galvanized steel shingles on it. I could go on but you get the point I'm sure.
I put comp
on my house because it's a farmhouse and would not have looked good with a non-traditional material.... but....
I put 24 gauge steel on my shop and it will last a LOT longer than the comp will (installed in the same year, so they're neck 'n neck). The gauge and the quality of the paint system are considerations with metal. I would not used a face-screwed system, only a snap lock type.
Of course, now you can get metal shingles that look (more or less) like comp or slate shingles.
Until you cost one out. The quote foisted on me was about twice what a normal standing-seam ultimately cost me.
check out decra metal roofing they have all kinds and 1 that looks like shingles and it thick and you can walk on it, its got a 50year wart. on it also has different colors
Spent the day researching this, and I'm coming back around to the metal roofing. I think I let the anti-warranty thing set the standard for my thinking, and I came at it from the perspective of, "If it doesn't last as long as the promotional brochure claims, then I'd be losing money." But really, the better question is, "If it costs about twice as much, does it last about twice as long?" Sounds like there is a good chance it will (cost twice as much and last twice as long), so...metal roof is back in play.
Thanks for the input.
I do have some more specific questions, if anyone can help me out with that too. I guess I want 24 gauge, and I would probably choose a snap lock standing seam. I'm confused about two things. It appears that there are some contractors who are actually forming the pieces on site, and some that are ordering a package from the manufacturer. Is one approach better than another? Also, I come across the term "galvalume" a lot. Is this significantly superior to other galvanized steels?
Dittoes
More dittoes
but whatever you do, spec your material correctly. There is one roofing outfit that I see trespassing around here occasionally, they roll the panels on site and slap them on as quickly and as ugly as possible. It looks like a big wavy sea of scrap metal up there when they get finished. Maybe they use 29 gauge, or maybe that's too thick for them, I dunno, but they lure unsavvy customers with the quick 'n easy metal roof right now and we can give you a great price! Same sort of action as the "we can put asphalt on your driveway right now since we're in the neighborhood" paving contractors.
IMO the lower priced metal installer is the one to avoid.
I have to say that vetting is going to be yucky. I'll have to wear my muck boots, I think. I have a choice of at least a dozen roofers in my area, but almost every one of them has either an open lawsuit against them, labor/safety violations listed on the L and I website, or a complaint on the BBB website. (Same goes for the metal roofing manufacturers, in the PNW, I might add). I've narrowed the contractor choices down to the ones that appeared to respond to complaints or addressed the lawsuits, and I've left messages with all of them to make appointments, but this is about 4000 sq ft of roof, and it's going to be a fair pile of cash to let go of. I sorta hate this process, and I used to be a contractor myself (cabinets and furniture, so I don't really know anything about construction other than what I picked up on job sites or from books).
PNW
Nu-Ray Metals is a good brand that I have used.
What county are you in?
Yeah...more dittos, but a caveat too.
Standing seam (hidden fasteners) is more difficult to plan and install, especially on "cut up" roofs with lots of dormers, valleys, and other details. Don't be the contractor's version 1.0 (first job).
If you're forking out for standing seam, you are wise to hire someone who knows what they are doing, especially if you have a complicated roof.
One other detail... with our house we budgeted for standing seam, but our contractor (who's had tons of experience with SS) actually dissuaded us from using it. We've got two doghouse dormers the facia of which are quite tight to the roof surface. He was worried about ice damming which can flatten the seams and create problems. We agreed to go with exposed fasteners, which saved about $4K in capital cost, but I doubt the roof will last as long as SS. Nonetheless I think it was the right decision in our case.
I'm in Whatcom County, about 20 minutes from Canada on I-5. Thanks to everyone for the caveats. I'm hoping I will find a contractor who will give me good advice on our particular roof. I have looked at Nu-Ray's website, and one of the contractors I have contacted has a link to Nu-Ray, implying that they are familiar with the product. Lots of questions to ask, I guess.
We may have a slight advantage with our location in the sense that we don't really *need* a metal roof. High winds are rare, and 50 mph would be considered a major storm. It snows, but not much, and is always gone in a few days, at most. Rain is the real issue. Almost constant from Oct-Apr. From what I've been reading, that may be a good thing for metal, since it washes it off. We do have a fair number of angles. The picture is the only one I have handy. It shows a couple angles, but there are several more not shown. Standing seam on this style of house is becoming a fairly popular look in the Seattle area, so, while it might look odd to some, my eye is used to it.
That said, I am open to what a contractor recommends, since they are the ones working with the material, and they are the ones doing the call-backs.
There are doubtless
some excellent roofing contractors around Bellingham. I will put out some feelers and see if I can get a few names. The people you want are the ones working for the better builders and remodelers, not the ones with the screaming yellow pages ad. You are well off to locate someone by referral / word of mouth.
I'm over in San Juan County. My roofer is excellent but he won't travel that far.
Hi David,
That would be a great help. I'm out of the loop because the stuff I did was in New Mexico, and I haven't been involved in anything industry related in the PNW. When I saw that you were around here, I was frantically googling in the hope that you were a roofer, but, alas. I did find an old article you wrote for Woodwork, though. I had the good fortune to work with John Lavine a bit when I was a furniture maker. Nice guy.
Thanks,
Colin
I'm waiting to see
if the guy I know over there responds.
John and his family came thru this summer. We had a lot of fun. He's been at Ross about 12 years now, and is editing their photography magazines.
Metal panels.
I have installed metal panels on farm buildings. The owner wanted the metal panels partially because with the proper framing over the old roof it is easy to cover up things like sway back. The roofs I was recovering with the metal panels were about 50yrs old and had not had any maintenance done since installation.
There are several grades of panels in many different colors. Metal paneled roofs on buildings in my area seem to fall into two categories, faded or not faded. I suspect that the sun and weather takes a toll on the colors on metal roofs. The better heavier grades are of course more expensive.
It would be difficult to tell if a metal roof was properly installed until the roof has been up for a few years. The roofs I did used screws that had to have pre-drilled holes to comply with manufacturers warranty requirements. Pre-drilled holes in the panels required that the strapping and framing for the panels had to be exact. I guess one could drill the holes as the panels were in place but it's slippery on a metal roof. The screws that were required had rubber flanges on them so the pre-drilled holes had to be drilled burr free to prevent damage to the rubber flange. I suspect that the metal panels would expand and contract a bit over time and that many screws would move so they might loosen causing leaks and I suspect that the rubber flange might deteriorate over time as well.
I prefer the old mainstay on my own roof, fiberglass shingles. Sure they have to be replaced every 20 or 25 yrs or so but then I get a very good look at the sheeting on my roof .
Oxiding
Maybe there are better metal roofing materials today, but I have never seen one that did not fad or oxidize. Just a consideration. Is that the look you want 5 or so years down the road and then on-going for decades?
Have you seen thge Kynar finisahes? Mine is 15 Years old and looks like new
From what I read in various write ups: Metal roofing is more complicated to install. Repairs are not that easy to do. If you renovate and have to install vents or other penetrations it will complicate the matter.
Personally I would go with a 40 or even 50 year "fibreglass" asphalt. It has a (with so many designs and colors) warm, friendly appearance.
? where will you be in 40 or 50 years? Getting a warranty work done on a roof that was installed in 1960? Most likely the roofer is long gone. The manufacturer will pass the buck on to the roofer or at best will credit you the cost based on 1960 with an upsale because they could not match the color anymore to . Frankly the warranties are not worth the paper written on.
I have seen metal roofing on homes in alpine areas but they use mostly zinkmaterials and that stuff is superexpensive.
The comments made here regarding discoloring or fading is very valid. If a repair becomes necessary the new patch will definitely distract from the house appearance
Wow - where to start?
1) Nothing lasts forever - everything, I mean everything requires maintenance (or complete replacement). Metal roofs if properly installed and maintained can last hundreds of years. My house was built in the 1740's with a shake roof - a replacement standing seam roof was installed in the 1800's - still there and in good shape.
2) Regardless of the base metal, corrosion will occur. For base metal steel, even though it is hard to resist, let the roof develop a mild film of rust. Then it is ready for a wire brushing and a coating with an asphalt impregnated paint (very thick stuff - needs stirring with an extra heavy duty 1/2 inch drill for a good 15/20 min). I coat my roof about every 15 years - a one day job. Do not use painters who insist on spraying a thin paint on the roof - you'll be painting it every 2 yearts!
3) You will get plenty of static about this one but always allow a breathing space under a metal roof (for that matter shakes also). Too many roofers will try to convince you to just shoot the roof down on the sheathing - wrong! Direct contact with even damp underlayment from condensation will start a corrision cell. Install the roof on nailers spaced on even centers.
4) There are a number of metal roofing products out there - the most popular are steel based. The oldest is galvanize - a zinc coating on base metal - hot dip is better than electro deposition for roofing. And a minimum coating weight of G90 (nine tenths of a ounce) - not G60. Galvalume was developed in the early 70's and is a Zinc/Aluminum coating which typically carries a 20 year warranty. It is a hot dip product and is readily available from major suppliers. Many industrial parks have buildings with Galvalume roofing - been there since the early 80's and are doing well if they are maintained.
Metal roofing is a true multiple generation roof if properly installed and cared for (so are wood windows and doors but nobody wants to maintain them). I spent a career in the base metal/coated metal industry and have walked many a roof. It's a good product well worth the investment.
Wow - where to start?
1) Nothing lasts forever - everything, I mean everything requires maintenance (or complete replacement). Metal roofs if properly installed and maintained can last hundreds of years. My house was built in the 1740's with a shake roof - a replacement standing seam roof was installed in the 1800's - still there and in good shape.
2) Regardless of the base metal, corrosion will occur. For base metal steel, even though it is hard to resist, let the roof develop a mild film of rust. Then it is ready for a wire brushing and a coating with an asphalt impregnated paint (very thick stuff - needs stirring with an extra heavy duty 1/2 inch drill for a good 15/20 min). I coat my roof about every 15 years - a one day job. Do not use painters who insist on spraying a thin paint on the roof - you'll be painting it every 2 yearts!
3) You will get plenty of static about this one but always allow a breathing space under a metal roof (for that matter shakes also). Too many roofers will try to convince you to just shoot the roof down on the sheathing - wrong! Direct contact with even damp underlayment from condensation will start a corrision cell. Install the roof on nailers spaced on even centers.
4) There are a number of metal roofing products out there - the most popular are steel based. The oldest is galvanize - a zinc coating on base metal - hot dip is better than electro deposition for roofing. And a minimum coating weight of G90 (nine tenths of a ounce) - not G60. Galvalume was developed in the early 70's and is a Zinc/Aluminum coating which typically carries a 20 year warranty. It is a hot dip product and is readily available from major suppliers. Many industrial parks have buildings with Galvalume roofing - been there since the early 80's and are doing well if they are maintained.
Metal roofing is a true multiple generation roof if properly installed and cared for (so are wood windows and doors but nobody wants to maintain them). I spent a career in the base metal/coated metal industry and have walked many a roof. It's a good product well worth the investment.
composite or metal
Consider all aspects. Not just price and warranty. Are you in a location with a lot of snow and ice? When the snow and ice slides off the metal will it land on a walkway or in front of the garage doors? What kind of metal roof are you considering? The cost of materials can vary by more than 300% alone. Consumers are feeling a bit jilted by the present life-span they are seeing in composite shingles. To a certain extent, blame needs to be accepted by consumers. We wanted to keep materials costs low, so the manufactures did so. End result is a poor product. We got what we paid for!! If you want a 30 year performance, purchase a 50 year product. It would be the best value, as the labor to remove the old composite and the labor to install the new composite would not be significantly effected. Total project cost is higher, but the value is left behind when the contractor gets in his truck.
Other considerations: Why did your shingles go bad in the first place? Try to answer that question. Fix the house problem if one exists and then put on the product you like. Don't rely on a metal roof to cover up for a house functional problem. How will a metal roof fit in with the neighborhood? What is the slope of your roof? Many of the metal roofing profiles are "out of specs" if placed on a slope of 3/12 or less. Then, a standing seam roofing product is required.....a cost increase.
I have installed roofs for 40 years (composite, metal, and single-ply membrane). Consult with 2 or 3 legal, insured contractors for their recommendations WITH their reasoning considerations. Good luck
Most metal roofs use high-quality steel plates or aluminum plates as the substrate, and the surface is coated with aluminum-zinc coatings, molecular resins, natural stones, etc. as protective layers, making them super resistant to temperature, low temperature, light, corrosion, and Aging and other performance and long service life, firm and safe, the service life can reach up to 70 years.We have been using metal roofing suppliers produced by their company
Typically, metal roofs are constructed using top-notch steel or aluminum plates as the base, coupled with protective layers like aluminum-zinc coatings, molecular resins, and natural stones. These layers contribute to exceptional resistance against temperature variations, light exposure, corrosion, and aging, ensuring a prolonged service life of up to 70 years. Personally, I've been utilizing metal roofing supplies from a reputable supplier, and if you're seeking further guidance, you might want to check out their offerings. For additional information, visit their website:
If you want to never put another roof on there’s nothing better for longevity than slate.
yikahooks | Jan 21, 2023 09:27pm | #24
"Most metal roofs use high-quality steel plates or aluminum plates as the substrate, and the surface is coated with aluminum-zinc coatings, molecular resins, natural stones, etc. as protective layers, making them super resistant to temperature, low temperature, light, corrosion, and Aging and other performance and long service life, firm and safe, the service life can reach up to 70 years.We have been using metal roofing suppliers produced by their company "