We are amatuers who try hard and in retirement have worked on several Habitat for Humanity builds (as CareAVanners) and have general contracted and did all the stick work on a house we had in north central Arizona (sold it because it was too warm and not enough snow to cross country ski regularly). We are now getting ready to settle down (stop wandering in our motorhome and build a house east of Durango, CO. All the planning is going smoothly, but we are having trouble getting good information on the different types of metal roofs. This is our first time with metal roofing (always used arch. shingles — covenants require metal this time) and we are having trouble sorting through the pros and cons. Looking for a good description of the differences between standing seam, propanel, galvalume, etc. and whatever advice, good, bad, and humorous, is out there. It’s bound to better than what I get from the roofing salesmen.
thanks, the pope’s wife
Replies
I'm certainly no expert, but steel pitched roofs have become my roof-of-choice in the last 10 years. Here's what I think. Brand really doesn't matter as long as you get a profile and a color that pleases you. Gauge of the steel does matter. Heavier = better =more $$.
Since I'm in your neighborhood, some advice. Darker colors will fade with the UV especially at your altitude. And, if the covenants require it, I'm guessing that you're in the trees with limited fire protection. Get that brush cleared out. No water this year. Don't let that new house be part of the nightly news. The local extension service can give you good advice on how to minimize fire threats.
Shelley
Thanks Shelley --
We've built in a high fire risk area before, Pine, AZ. Drier even than it is here now and there, water was and still is very scarce. At least here we have our own well with a decent gpm at 200'. We are already clearing out that brush oak and blackjack pine -- luckily we also have some meadow.
We had been looking at lighter colors -- just plain old silver, but the arch. committee does not want to see a reflection off the roof. Galvalume appears to come in a dull silver finish and we are going to try to get that accepted. The darks DO fade -- navy blue to purple, red to shades of pink, and green to ..... At a recent home show the standing seam folks said theirs is no longer fading that they've fixed the problem. We see so many around Pagosa Springs that are new and already fading (the elevation doesn't help) that I'm skeptical of that claim.
pope's wife
Yep, I just usually disregard their fade claims and assume that it will. If I'm feeling especially nasty I ask them if it's been tested at 8000' with 330 days a year of sunshine. Usually shuts them up.
And I, like you, prefer the old galvanized tin look. If you're building it to look old, then look old. Your neighbors are pretty full of themselves. Sure you want to live there?
Sounds like you have it well in hand. Heard there's already a fire up there. Anywhere near you?
Shelley
I've lived and roofed out that way. I used the propanel mostly back then. They have it in 26 or 29 gauge. 26 is the heavier of the two. More structural if you lay iot over strapping instead of on solid decking. With solid ply or osb deck the 29 is ok. Some manufactureres now offer a Kynar finish that helps keep the finish good for longer. Out west sandblasting in the wind is an issue with roof metal too. I think roof finishes are coming along like automobiles did. Remember the mid seventies Chevys and Fords?
I thought the Galvalume was overpriced for what you got though it is better than the standard steel.
Will you be doing own installation or contracting?Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks for the info. I do remember those cars -- I grew in southwest FL where sun and salt did in any finish. We will sub the roof out. Neither one of us is particularly good at working pitched roofs. We've shingled when it was a low pitch and no one else on the Habitat build would volunteer. I'd actually rather insulate than roof. So that's an easy decision. We usually sub out the rough plumbing, roughin electrical and board, the heavy site/foundation work, and the roofing. All the rest of it we can do and are only limited by personal energy and how quick we want it dried in. The gauge info. helps -- I'm hoping we can find information on a local supplier for the preweathered silver finish.
This is the only part of the covenants for building we seem to have to negotiate. The rest of them have been reasonable enough.
The fire is quite a bit south right on the New Mexico border and is now contained. Not much loss -- they slurried the houses that were in the path of the fire and that seemed to work. It is going to be a long spring and summer, though. I like the question on 8000 feet. Next time one of the roofing salesmen "little lady" me, I'll use it.
pope's wife
Pope's wife,
Here is link to site withn info http://www.mtlsales.com/.
We have been using acrylume which is galvalume(galvanized with aluminum) with a clear polymer coating. Seems to hold up better to galvanic action. Suggest you not apply over osb and use radiant barrier on bottom of rafters.
KK
kk,have you had trouble with screws and osb?what the heck was I thinking?
Heck,
I have been fighting a 5-v roof that someone else applied over 1/2" OSB. The screws are backing so far out they are about to fall off the roof. This is a real good client and I hate to tell him we need to rip it off a reapply to stripping.
KK
I have observed what you are describing on a few metal roofs in my area (mostly propanel II from metal sales),but not on any that I have done,some as old now as 10 years in this area.
I will not use any 1/2" product for roof sheathing,I always use 5/8.Lately, the majority have been osb,thus my question.
On the roof you mentioned:Would it be possible to remove a row of screws and place 1x strapping under the decking,between the roof members,and re-screw?Precut the strapping for the layout;one helper starts pulling the old screws;another helper installs the strapping with a small air stapler.When the first helper finishes a row,he starts over with new screws at the beginning.Assumes easy access to underside of sheathing,of course.what the heck was I thinking?
Good idea if the bottom of the osb was accesible, it's not.
I will only install over stripping.
No more metal roofs till fall.(Oct.)
Metal roofing has come a long way - there are indeed many choices. One decision is the base metal - galvanized, zinc/aluminum (galvalume is a trade name), long terne plate, aluminum are all used for roofing. Galvanize is usually the lowest priced but it also rusts faster than other coated products. Zinc/aluminum alloy or Galvalume is superior to Galvanize and most suppliers give a 20 year warranty.
One thing to remember - simply because you get a mild rust on your roof doesn't mean it needs replacing or it has deteriorated. Simply wire brushing and recoating with an asphalt impregnated paint will give new life to the roof. The roof on my house is over 100 year old and is doing fine - I've had it painted twice in the past 25 years and it looks great.
The way roof panels are formed - corrugated, various crimp patterns and standing seam are as much cosmetic as they are mechanical/structural. Pick something that looks pleasing to you. Painted metal roof looks fine and painted Galvalume is a very durable, long lasting product - but ultimately it will need to be repainted. But that's still cheaper that reroofing - especially if it is asphalt shingles.
Good luck!
I am in NE Florida and still drive past a grey metal roof that I put on 8 years ago and it looks nice. I used met-tile. The people in California are very good at getting you the name of a rep in your area. I have used this roof style from Michigan to Florida and have been very pleased with it. The material cost is a little more ($2.65 sq. ft) but you save a lot on installation time.